Ok i know where to put the jack to lift the car up... but where can i put the jack stands after the car is up in the air??? Ya know what i mean?

 

a lot of parts under teh car are metal and i had no problems putting them on a lot of places. however i couldn't really find a true appropriate place for the stand. i ended up putting it close to the sways bar

 

Do you have a floor jack or just the jack that comes with the car?... I use a floor jack under the front tow hook and then put the jack stands under both sides of the car...hope this helps. BTW u can find floor jacks all over, try Sears or Pep Boys.

 

he is asking exactly when under the car we put our jack stand.

 

I put the jack stands where u jack the car up from on the sides, since I'm using a floor jack in the front.

 

well, it looks like my big web-search effort was for nothing.....not like the internet can ever present useful information. All I can ever find is complete drivel and porn... Every site I looked never gave complete instructions on using jack stands, they just say to "jack up the car and support it with jack stands" so it must be as simple as rominl described.:o

hey Crzy, did you get my PM?

 

What a coincidence...I plan to jack the car up tomorrow. I JUST came back from Kragen Auto Parts store right after resurfacing my front rotors and this is what I ended up buying.

$14.00 = A 2-ton Hydrolic Floor Jack
$12.99 = A pair of 2-ton Jack Stands
$10.99 = A Torque Wrench (to prevent any further warping)
$07.99 = The proper socket for our lug nuts
$03.99 = 500 Degree Engine paint (Red)

Overall this will be a $50 project that you guys will surely notice on our next meet.

 

TLluver is correct, you use a hydraulic jack to jack from the factory tow hooks and then use the jack stand on the factory jack points. You do not want to put the jack stands underneath the frame rails because you will bend them. You don't want to put them under suspension components because it won't be stable. Go out and buy a hydraulic jack, they aren't that expensive.

 

Damn guys, I already tried putting the hydro jack on the tow hooks, and even with the hydro jack alllll the way up, i still cant fit my jack stand under the car to the factory spot. I guess my front end is too low. Or i have to go out and by shorter jack stands... any other ideas?

 

yup, same thing happened to me too. i had to put the jack stand position ALL THE WAY to the lowest in order to just put it under teh car......

damn comptech is low

 

lol! me too! I just tried it a few hours ago and the tow hooks did crap! So, what I ended up doing is using the jack BESIDE the area where you're supposed to and raising it up from there hoping I could have enough room to put the stands right on the notch, but ended up bending the frame and still not having enough room to put the stands on. so...I just reversed it and it worked. I'm gonna go back to Kragen tomorrow and exchange my jack to a taller one. Now I know...a 13 inch lift is not tall enough.

 

Get a taller jack? I'm going to exchange my 13 inch for a 15 inch tomorrow.

 

What I do, which I have done about a million times since I re-did my suspension about 3-4 times already, do oil changes myself and put foglights in...I first jack up the car by a really big bolt that holds up the suspension by the rear, inside of the front tires, the color of that bolt is like a goldish color, the bolt is fairly big, It can support alot of weight and I have heard others using that point as well...I never heard a crack or the bolt head bending even though I have jacked up the car many times on that point, after you put your jackstands on the factory jack points...Ill post a picture on the weekend...

Den

 

Guys, theres a very simple solution to getting your jack under a car which is too low.

You can simply get a 2x10 inch wood boards. Place them in front of the rear wheels and drive wheels directly on top.

Now if it's still not enough clearence, you can use another piece of the 2X10 and screw them together. Mind you, not the same size piece. Stager them so the wheel can sit completely on each level.

I basically made ramps using this method. It's about five boards high. It's a bit heavy for some maybe....naaa no biggie at all. I use these ramps to change my oil. Done quick and safe. After drained and plugged back up, I get in the car and push the car off the ramps with my left leg to check the oil level when filling it back up.

Now if you need to make ramps for a lowered car with spoilers, I would measure the distance from the wheel to the chin. Get a couple of pieces (boards) of the 2X10's and figure out the clearance (i.e. how many boards clear the chin - then how long should each level [step size] be for the wheel to climb climb up to the next level all the while the chin is clearing each level, by say.... +/ - 2" or so. up to you really). Keep in mind you want to keep it short as possible. More wood equalls more eight and more $$'s.

Wood isn't going to collapse on you, just make sure you don't make it out some piece of wood you find in your backyard thats been eaten up by termites.

When you need the whole car lifted, make sure you don't be frugal with the jackstands. Personally I would only use some heavy duty stands built out some thick heavy cast steel. Not like the cheesy ones that looks like it's made out of stamped steel

 

Hmmm...I'm trying to imagine it. Lets say I'm facing the drivers side fender. I located a gold bolt deep inside, past the well and is located left, towards the front of the car. The thing that worried me is that the bolt is surrounded by the platic shroud that covers the underbody. Is that the same point we are talking about? If thats the case, I did it backwards and jacked the car up using the factory points and placed the stands on that bolt. The other way you mentioned seems alot safer. Now this may seem all handy dandy...but now where would you guys place the jack/stand combo if you want your rear end without wheels?

 

There is a similar bolt in the rear suspension also, I use that point to jack up and put the jackstands on the factory jack points...like I said before, I will be putting up some pics for a diagram to better illustrate this, this weekend...

Den

 

where are the pics?

 

The jack points point to little tabs under the car. I didn't believe that I was supposed to use them because they are so thin, but they worked perfectly for holding up the car when we tossed the brake lines in.

 

There is a rectangular shaped metal piece that sticks out under our cars which is to be used for jacks. It should be located about 1ft behind the front wheels the same for the back...

I had comptech springs on my car and it was impossible to jack up my car without damaging the paint on my WW kit.
Then I found a space where the jack would barely go under...
To my surprise I had jacked up my car with just one tooth holding on to the support. Then the most unthinkable happened...
The weight was too much and the car dropped to the floor causing the jack to rip thru the floor :wow: OMG!

Never again am I gonna change my own brakes. I figured, I bought the brakes pads for close to 80 bucks and acura wanted to charge me close to $450 to install them. I spent $800 to fix my floor so... so much for my $80 brake pad change

 

Here is the picture of the bolt I use to jack up the car first and then I put the jackstands on the factory jack points along the side of the car...


Pic of the Front Bolt...

 

Here is the rear one...now you get the idea...

 

could anyone repost the picture? plzplzplz....

 

this thread is 5 years old

 

That manual shows the 4 factory jack points. Then if you get down on your hands and knees and look under teh front of the car dead center you will see a small spot thats dropped down on the frame (about as far back as the radiator). Then also in front of each front tire you will see a drop hook (for towing and straping down) those can be used to lift (if the jack has a larg enough lift pad) Then in the rear you will see a loop dead center attached to the spare tire well, you can use that as well