I looked at this for my 2001. My Navi works but it's not worth updating. I looked at the Non-Navi complete dash and it seems plug and play as long as you have the right switches. You would also need the non-Navi storage tray to fill the gap where the current climate control dash is located.

Post back with before and after pics!

 

OP, why not just... https://www.ebay.com/itm/2002-Acura-...-/153312377239

 

 

I'm also replacing the factory radio with a double-din I removed from my old CL-S, so the voice options won't wok with my new headunit.

 

Hey CL-Slick, let me know how that goes! I'm thinking of going the other way around, '99 TL-P non-NAVI to NAVI for that sweet screenspace.
You said the AC control board has the same connectors in both the NAVI and non-NAVI models?

 

Swap parts, you guys!

 

Honestly I'm down. I can't give you the CD tray thing because mine has switches installed in it and I'm sure you don't it, but the bezel and climate controls I'm more than down to pull out and shop.

 

 

 

I had the same problem with my navi screen.

I knew I wanted to keep my screen though. So....

I started looking for the best place to find it for the least amount possible.

Long story short:

1. Downloaded the LKQ pick your part app
2. Configured the garage portion of the app to include the 99-03 Acura TL with push notifications set to ON when a car shows up in the nearby yards
3. Picked up a navi screen for about $25

Of course the condition of parts varies, but with a little patience I definitely found what i was looking for and was able to do it relatively inexpensive.

 

t
This will not work.. just tried, two plugs,, one will work the other will not!

 

it is a pretty direct swap, I don't know what this guy is talking about. the hazard button needs to be moved so extending that wire is the only "modification".

https://imgur.com/a/YC4Wsmz

in that album you'll see I went from oem nav, tablet on nav screen, single din, double din, non nav, to nav with ac relocation.

 

On that note, I'm selling my kit to transform any non-Navi 2nd gen TL to a Navi model - like what sfw posted, and what you can find in my post history.

https://m.imgur.com/a/3M3Il4p
^picture of my kit and all the parts that come with it.

I'll post on the marketplace tomorrow or early next week, but hit me in a PM if you're interested.

 

Know this is kind of old, but I was looking into doing this too. Just wanted to confirm that everything is basically plug and play except for extending the hazard switch wiring as well as finding a way to rewire the clock. If this is all I need, anyone know which wires I need for the clock?

 

The clock just needs +12v and ground, if I recall correctly. The hazard switch is a different shape between the Navi / non-Navi dashboards but the plug is identical. I didn't have to extend it for my non-Navi to Navi swap.

 

The Navi hazard button is on the left of the screen. The non-Navi is on the right of the climate controls.

When I looked into this (didn't end up doing it), the hazard "extension" was the only mod needed. I don't recall anything about the clock.

The Navi also has a separate control panel for the auto function for the climate control just above the radio. In the non-Navi, this is a storage compartment.

 

Decided to do a lil more digging and found a whole guide to this:

https://imgur.com/gallery/YPRuWzO

 

I recall seeing that before, just couldn't remember where. Thanks!

I now recall the clock was not an issue since the new head unit I would have used had a clock.

When you extend the Hazard, soldering with heat shrink would be much cleaner and less prone to problems down the road.

 

The swap was a success on my TL, unfortunately it recently got totaled. I just picked up a CL-S 6-Speed with a bad nav so I’ll be doing the swap again. The only wiring I had to do was to extend the hazard harness, as stated above. I never messed with trying to make the clock work though.

 

Sorry to hear that. Hope you're OK.

 

Thanks man, I was all good, just sick about my TL. Even though it was just a Premium, I had lots of work into it and it was my favorite car. I’m enjoying the 6-Speed CL-S now though!

 

I just wanted to thank everyone for making this thread. I just finished the navi to non-navi climate control conversion on my '03 TL and it went great.
The navigation system was really outdated and it had that notorious screen tearing so it was really hard to see the AC controls on the screen.
I purchased the non-navi dash trim and storage tray on eBay and I also purchased an Alpine ILX-650 to upgrade the antique radio along with American International ACU-K862 Dash Kit, Metra 70-1721 Wiring Harness,
AXXES ASWC-1 for steering wheel controls, brake bypass adapter from eBay, and lastly a subwoofer retention adapter from mobilemaxcaraudio to keep stock subwoofer.
I highly recommend the Alpine ILX-650, so far I really like the radio. It has a really sleek design, interface is very easy to use, and so far I have not had a single issue with it.
Another benefit to this conversion is that you can remove the CD changer from the trunk freeing up cargo space. You can't remove it if you have the navigation system as it kills power to the navigation.

The only modification needed is to extend the hazard light switch, I ended up cutting the wires and used Wago connectors to extend the wires. Why in the world does a single hazard switch need 8 wires is beyond me lol.

The clock wiring is:
Black = Ground
White/Red = Constant
Yellow = Ignition
Red/Black = Illumination
Red = Dimmer

I wired the clock to my upgraded Alpine ILX-650 radio. It appears you can wire the clock to the AC connector but I didn't want to mess with the AC wiring as I live in Florida.
The only unusual thing with the clock wiring is that the yellow is the ignition and the white/red is the constant. I originally wired the yellow to the constant and
the white/red to the red ignition wire but the clock would turn off and lose the time setting every time I would turn the ignition off so I switched the wires and the clock is now working great.

 

Is this something that I could do myself having no experience? I bought the non-navi trim piece along with the sliding door right under. Is there a video I can follow.

 

Hey thanks, that's hard for me to answer since I don't personally know you. I'm not a mechanic but I have been DIYing since I was like 10 yrs old and I'm a low voltage technician. With that being said, everything is a factory fit. You don't have to do any custom work like measuring, cutting plastic, or drilling holes. You pretty much just need basic tools. All the screw holes and clip retainers should line up and all the electric connectors are plug and play with exception for the clock and hazard switch. My dash trim came with all the switches but they are exactly the same switches. The wires to the hazard switch just needs to be extended since the switch is more to the right side and there's barely any slack on the wires. I used Wago 221 lever connectors from Amazon, it looked like a mess but it worked. For the clock, The dash trim that I purchased came with the connector but if yours did not, you may have to find one on ebay or somewhere online. I wired it to my radio as I described in my original post. Also I'm not sure wether you're upgrading your radio or not, I believe you could technically remove the dash trim without removing the radio but since you need to install the storage tray and wire the clock you will have to remove the radio. If you're upgrading the radio, you just need to purchase the dash kit, wiring harness, and subwoofer cable adapter. Also need the steering control retention kit if you want to keep the steering radio controls, for some reason mine ended up not working even after days of troubleshooting but I believe my steering controls may have had an issue. I will post links to the videos I watched on Youtube. The dash trim videos are for replacing the light bulbs in you instrument cluster but the videos show how to remove and install the dash trim. You do not need to remove the instrument cluster. Personally, I started with removing the radio, then replaced the dash trim, then did the radio and clock wiring, and lastly installed the radio with the storage tray. The storage tray just bolts on top of the radio kit. The radio was a little tricky to push into place because the storage tray fits under the AC control trim but eventually I got it to fit. Good luck

Radio upgrade/removal: Dash trim removal install: Another dash trim install:

 

Thank you for responding. This helps me a lot and gives me the confidence to do it myself. I will post pics of mine once I get it all set up.

 

Having trouble with the clock wiring. Would appreciate any help.

 

Having trouble with the clock wiring. Would appreciate any help.

 

Hey Iron Man, whats the issue? I too had issues with the clock wiring because the wire colors are weird. I hope you have the connector for the clock, mine came with the clock from ebay. And I wired it to my aftermarket radio, I do not know the factory radios wiring scheme. I used the Metra 70-1721 radio adapter so the colors are based on that adapter.

The black goes to black which is the ground (-), the white/red wire on the clock side goes to the yellow wire on the radio side which is the constant power wire, the yellow wire on the clock side goes to the red wire on the radio side which is the ignition, the red/black wire on the clock side goes to the orange wire on the radio side which is the illumination on/off, and finally the red wire on the clock side goes to the orange/white wire on the radio side which is the illumination dimmer wire.

The clock should turn off with the ignition off and turn on with the ignition on, the clock memory should be retained (meaning the clock should not lose the time setting when ignition is off), and the backlight on the clock should turn on with the dash board lights and should also dim the light with the dash dimmer switch i believe.

I hope this helps, I sold the car and its been over a year since I did the conversion so I hope I remembered everything correctly.

 

What gauge is the wiring for the clock and the hazard lights? Or should I have enough in what was sent for the radio to get them a little longer.

 

not sure what the actual wire gauge is for the factory wires but you can use either 18 or 16 gauge copper wire to extend the wires. you can buy some at Home depot or any hardware store. again I used Wago 221 wire connectors which makes it super easy to connect the wires and also fix any mistakes but you can also use any form of low voltage wire connectors (crimp, heat solder, wire nuts). both the clock and hazard switch will need to be extended. just be careful not to mix up the wires, do them one by one. the hazard switch has like 8 wires with each wire having two colors i think, it can get confusing. i think extending the hazards was the most tedious part of the whole job. not a lot of room to fit your wire strippers but its not super difficult, just take your time.