My cabin blower stopped all of the sudden a few seconds after i started the car. I did opened the moon roof right before the blower stopped, don't know if that made a difference or not.
Naturally the fuse was the first thing checked but it was ok. The front climate control lights up and reads the temp setting but there is absolutely no air coming out and when the a/c is engaged no compressor is heard. I am at a loss as to what it could be. Prior to this incident the climate system worked great. Please help the evenings here are scorching.
Thanks

 

Look underneath the glove compartment and find the blower motor. It will have a 2-wire connector plugged into the back of it. With the AC or heater on and the blower motor speed turned to HIGH, grab the connector and move it back and fourth as well as the blower motor itself. If it comes on, it's more than likely going to be either the connector itself (especially if burned or melted) or the blower motor. It's best to replace them both as well as the blower motor transistor. If it does not come on, does the AC compressor come on when the AC button is pressed? If not, it will more than likely be the transistor. Those are the three most common issues: blower motor, blower motor sub-harness and blower motor transistor. I usually recommend to my customers to replace them all together because they have a tendency of causing the domino effect.

 

By the way you described how it suddenly quit working, You may want to recheck all the fuses again.

Start with the driver's side kick panel and inspect #3(7.5a), then if ok slide over to the passenger side panel and inspect #13(7.5a). If ok, then go up underhood and check the big boy #54(40a) in the fuse/relay box to the left. Also while in that box, there's a relay for the blower motor. Try swapping it with another one which has the exact same id markings.

If all this fails, the HVAC system has a built in diagnostic to give an error code. It uses the "temp" indicator display. To find a possible error, turn key on, push "AUTO" button first and then "OFF" button at the same time, while still pushing both buttons......a code will come up if there is a fault in the system.

Our blower motors are known to have a poorly designed wiring harness which fails.

 

the ac wont engage unless cabin fan is on

first thing to look at is that power connector right under front edge of glovebox
open it up and ck back and inside,,you may see damage-melting-burnt plastic,loose wire etc
acura makes a 20$ kit with longer wires and new connector,,you splice in the new wires

Sometimes when that happens it takes out the resistor (not transistor)
located under a finned heat shield on back of fan motor mounting plate
It will look messed up if it is

the cabin fan motor itself is usually ok, test it with jumper wire to power
but start with that main connector
the wires are short and tight- causes strain and failure

See DIY `cabin filter replacement` for help getting glovebox out
the filters and blower are behind it

 

checked the fuses again, and removed the Blower Motor. The BM and the Fan Wheel were completely covered with a purplish funky looking powder. The FW and BM were cleaned and plugged directly to the BATT but nothing happened.

Then the current was checked at the plug first with key off:



Then with key on:



The estrange thing is even with the a/c off but key on the connector picture below retained 12volts:


Further disassemble of the motor was not possible so no transistor was visible. I am looking in the right place?


Autozonne has them for $125 is it really advantageous to get it OEM from dealer or aftermarket has same quality?
Ebay has some new aftermarket for $38 to $61.
Ok assuming is the fan but did i missed something else?

 

Forgot to mention all plugs were intact with no burnt or damaged connections.

 

The transistor is located near the glove box if i remember correctly. Hang tight and someone might find a diagram for you. I know on an older post maybe a year ago someone had this problem and posted some pictures. There is also a diagnostic mode built into the HVAC unit if you search you will find out how to get into it and what the codes mean.

cheers and good luck with getting the motor going

 

should be resistor on mounting plate for fan motor

 

The built-in diagnostic indicated no codes whatsoever, does the resistor resides inside the plastic covering the motor as illustrated in pic 4?
I'm trying to locate said resistor/heat sink but no luck, does the plastic black cover has to come off?

 

Hey Idomeneo, It appears as though you have the fan blower assembly removed from the dash. If so, a simple test to bypass all the switches, relays and resistor pack is to apply 12 volts directly to the blower's motor. It either runs or not ! If it runs, then you've got something else not working. While you're in the general vicinity, replace the cabin filter if you have not already done so recently. Won't help the blower, but may give you a break !

 

ok today the fan motor was replaced and still have same problem.
When the key is engaged in the on position the fan turns for a fraction of a sec and then wont move regardless of the fan setting. The heat sink was finally checked and it looks brand new with no signs of heat stress. I am at a loss here. Oh i forgot to mention the fuses/relays look fine and i swapped the heater relay with one from my odyy and nothing.
Help

 

With key on, the yellow/black wire going to motor is hot correct? Measure the voltage by using a chassis ground not by using the other blue wire as a ground source. It should read 12v with key on. Also, see if the voltage significantly drops during that brief moment of when you said the motor operates. This is just to confirm that there is adequate power at the connector and remains present with a load also. Once you have confirmed this, it would be safe to assume at this point that the motor is losing a ground either from the transistor, the harness or the connector...possibly even at the grounds origination point before the transistor at the chassis. To determine this, go to the transistor and find the solid black wire. Again, with the connectors plugged into the transistor and motor, back probe the yellow wire at the motor and the black wife at the transistor. With key on, you should constantly have 12V or higher. And if the ground drops (shown through lowered boltage) during that initial blower motor operation, go back and recheck the chassis ground. If it doesn't drop what so ever, move the black probe over to the smaller orange/black wire on the transistor. Now then you should be able to see a variable ground being sent to this wire when the blower motor switch is moved from high to low speeds. If this seen, you have a bad blower motor transistor. If not, bad control head.

 

With the power on, start yanking at some wires to see if the fan goes on/off. There may be a bad wire or bad contact (+12V or ground) somewhere.

 

With key on, the yellow/black wire going to motor is hot correct? yes

Measure the voltage by using a chassis ground not by using the other blue wire as a ground source. It should read 12v with key on. It does

Also, see if the voltage significantly drops during that brief moment of when you said the motor operates. It does not

back probe the yellow wire at the motor and the black wife at the transistor. With key on, you should constantly have 12V or higher.
It does

And if the ground drops (shown through lowered voltage) during that initial blower motor operation, go back and recheck the chassis ground.
It does not

If it doesn't drop what so ever, move the black probe over to the smaller orange/black wire on the transistor. Now then you should be able to see a variable ground being sent to this wire when the blower motor switch is moved from high to low speeds. If this seen, you have a bad blower motor transistor. If not, bad control head.
The voltage varies wildly and it is not dependent on fan speed setting

I guess that leaves the fan resistor and the head controller.
The controller is in its way (altho is the one from navi equipped car) I will be ordering the resistor soon.

am i on the right track or did i miss something?

 

If unsure, sometimes it pays to take the easiest path of least resistance and costs. ~"IMO"

 

This should help in finalizing your diagnosis. You seem to be pretty good with a volt/ohm meter so here ya go...



















Hope that helps.

 

Thanks Yungone501, I'm sure that will help him ! .....and also many others who have encountered this same problem with their car's "Blower Motor" .

 

Thank a lot for the diagram, I stopped at step 16 of the TS. Everything points to the resistor. This TS was of great help getting to the bottom of the problem. This post will definitely help someone else in the future.

 

^^^
No problem man. Glad to help.

 

Great news It work! Just wanted to add it was indeed the blower resistor. It cost me 41.99 + tax at autozone. The Trouble shooting basically indicated what was wrong all you have to do is follow step by step.
Thanks again for your invaluable help!

 

Now, you've got a spare blower fan for sale......ha,hah !
You're still way better off with everything new and saving enough money to pay for the parts by doing it yourself. Glad to hear that it's fixed, have a beer !

 

Gentlemen,
Can't thank ALL of you enough for this thread. My '03 TL completely stopped blowing any air and just like the posted troubleshooting stated I found my problem in a blown 2 amp fuze in the Blower Control Circuit Board. No continuity told me I needed a new part and Autozone had it in stock down the road for $42. The entire troubleshooting and part replacement took about 2.5 hours for me. Could have gone faster if I was a much younger man but I actually enjoyed the whole experience. The Fan blows as it should and I am back on the road in comfort. Thanks Again. JP

 

Hey Sjpi1954, hey that's what we are here for.....glad ya got it fixed up !
The dealer would've had ya for an entire new blower assembly @ couple hundred bucks.
The DIY's are very rewarding, both with saving money and a bit of exercise too.

Sometimes I've found that working up under the dash is better performed with your head on the floor and legs up over the seats. Brings back memories of the younger days, ha..hah !