8800honda

I drive a 2000 Acura TL. I got it like 2 1/2 years ago with 100k.Before I got it they did the 100k services(water pump/timing belt) I love it. It ride smooth and never had a big problem just change the battery,temp sensor,spark plug, and normal 3000 mile oil change.I had acura look up the vin to see if anything was change on it when I first got it. It came back saying that the transmission was replaced at 80k. Now I hit 160k on it. I have two little problem hoping that it doesn't turn in to a big one lol.When I have the car running in park or neutral it shakes enough to bug me. If I put in in drive it will not shake that much very very little and hard to feel. Next problem is when I am going up a hill my car will shake(maybe slipping hoping not) at 2000-2500 rpm only. Any idea? I have never change the transmission fluid. Will it help if I change it? I have heard if you change the transmission on high mileage car can do more damage then before. I do all the repair on this car and have not seen any fluid from the motor mounts.

Gfaze

You getting the Check Engine light? Is it on solid or is it flashing? It kinda sounds like a mis-fire. One of your coils could be bad but get the codes read first to be sure.

8800honda

No CEL now. I had a high temp. sensor code about two months ago. I just replace the sensor and no more CEL. I thought that it may be a mis-fire too but no code for the coil pack and i replace the spark plug with Ngk-Ix-Iridium plug

Gfaze

Hmm, with the kind of symptoms you're describing I'm surprised you have no CEL or any other flashing indicators. It still sounds like a mis-fire though. You might have to get it checked out at the dealer.

8800honda

ok Thanks for the input. My last resort is taking it to the dealer I hate paying dealer price on everything lol Anyone else have a suggestion?

harminder247

iTrader: (1)

It is a bad idea to change the transmission fluid if your tranny is acting up. This will cause it to go out much faster. You should have changed the fluid between 30-40k imo. If you have the money for a new tranny, i would take a risk and change the fluid. Better to find out instead of getting stranded somewhere trying to save some money now and spend more on towing later.

01tl4tl

changing the entire transmision is ok- but dont change the trans fluid!!!

I agree on misfire and will explain that during plug change its very easy to damage a coil without seeing it, then some months later it fails and causes rough running

if you are in the USA go to major name parts store and ask for a free code check

best method:
Smell the trans fluid on its dipstick, burnt= bad - not burnt = good!

totaledTL

Motor mount(s) still might be bad-?

01tl4tl

you would have to have more than 2 motor mounts broken to get the shake OP described
Most trans failure customers had no idea the front mount was broken when they come in.

OP also had a sensor prob that went unfixed for a few months, no tellng what may be loaded up now~
SEAFOAM!!! and get the codes checked even if no CEL showing- it may need a coil

climb under the car- or car on ramps- and look directly up at the front and rear motor mounts- those are the fluid filled ones, but constant vibration shake sounds like ignition

phee

iTrader: (5)

sounds like a torn rear motor mount.

8800honda

that was what i was thinking about. I dont want to do more damage.I dont have to worry about the tow. I got buddy that has a truck and trailer so I just call them and they come and get me Lol

I had the problems before I change the spark plug. I was very careful on the coils. I have no check engine light so they cant check it. I will smell the trans fluid to see. If it is low is it ok if i top it off? (sound like a dumb question I know) If so I am guessing Honda ATF only correct?

I will look at it hard next time I put the car on the Lift at the shop

acutee

If your tranny is acting up, old fluid will kill it down the road anyway. Nothing will run on old fluid forever, and I don't think the manual said tranny fluid is a lifetime fluid, maintenance free. New fluid either resolves your tranny symtomp or will kill the tranny. I don't see much difference that the tranny will die in 3/6/12 months with old fluid or will die now with new fluid. If it does not die with the new fluid, then you are actually saving the tranny. If it dies now, it is as expected as long as you are prepared for it and get a loaner like mine. I would do one drain and refill and see how it goes. 25 bucks for the fluid is worth trying.

kidduce

iTrader: (1)

^^^ I agree, im doing that myself in the next week or so.

8800honda

I may just take it to Acura. Pay out my ass and have them check everything out. I am guessing it would be around $100 for them to look at it? I will talk to one of the tech about the transmission fluid change. What do they charge to look at the car and change the transmission fluid? I never take my car to the dealer

harminder247

iTrader: (1)

Id say thats a bad idea. My car was at 99,8XX and the tranny i thought was going to go out. Took it to the dealers and they charged me a 100 saying nothings wrong and its the mounts acting up. If it were the transmission i would have to pay they stated. Car hit 100,050 and tranny its slipping like hell broke loose. I took the car in all pissed and they had nothing else besides the mounts are what caused it. I looked at the mounts and they were good. I dont know how the dealers there are but your better taken it to a private shop if you just want their say on what they think it is.

StonedCL

iTrader: (1)

I just had my car shake like a mofo and throw all kinds of codes p0302, p0304, p0305 p0300 and p1399 the first fout where misfire code in cylinder 2,4 and 5 .. I changed a coil pack in cylinder 4 and runs like new.. If its not throwing codes i doubt that is it.
It prob is a engin mount that is broken..
when you accelerate slow;ly does your tranny grind do u feel it grinding when acelerating slow?

BTW i would change the ATF fluid easier then changing oil!

01tl4tl

harmz- PM me if you need help at the dealer on trans warranty

8800honda

It doesn't grind or shift hard(unless the car is cold but I think that is normal). I do not drive it hard at all. I rarely go over 4k rpm.I have two other vehicles that I go out and have some fun lol.

harminder247

iTrader: (1)

Thanks for offering the help but this problem was 26k miles ago but appreciate it.

vannakam

Does the rpm surge ? and does it do it in D5 Gear.. i have the same problem.. mine started 5 months ago and i still have no check engine light.... buh it's getting worse.. i get bad gas mileage and low rpm idle when im cruising at 60.. and powerloss.. i replaced everything that has to do with idle.. the only thing i didn't replace is o2 sensor..... few technians told me.. most likely it;s the o2 sensor becasue as soon the car warms up from start it drives fine for first couple of minutes. and then the problem starts...which makes sense for the o2 sensor to work once the car is fully warmed up...

8800honda

Rpm does not surge. I always drive in D5 so I dont know if it is in the other gears or not. I dont even drive with the slap stick. I still get 22-24 mpg in the city. Cruising at 60 I have low rpm too but I just thought it was normal. I have not felt any powerloss but I dont get on it at all. You should be the guinea pig and change your o2 sensor and if it fixes your problem tell me so i can change mine LOL Are you planning on changing both or just one of them?

acurabum

Is your car idle fine or low when in Neutral or Park ?? If it idles low then maybe you should rest the ECM or do a Idle learn .

8800honda

Idle say the same that i can tell just shakes in park and neutral. When it first started to happen i thought it was just because my a/c was on but if i cut it off it the same

acurabum

Is your idles say 750-800 rpm or lower ? Why don't you try to reset the ECM by removing
the passenger side fuse # 13 ( 7.5A) for the clock back up for 2 min and re-install the fuse.
Then do a idle learn procedures :
Start the engine ( do not turn on any light , radio,climate control ..etc ) and to load.
Let the engine run and do nothing until both fans run and cycles twice (normal temp)
Then let the engine idle for and extra 10 min.
Then just drive the car ........................

This idle learn will let your engine idle fine and the ECM will compensate for any load that you will add on later ( AC , Reardeforst , headlight ..ect )

8800honda

Thanks I will try that later.

vannakam

drive it in D4 and see if it's in low rpm while your driving.. and let me know.. casue i have the exact same problem in D5.. casue i used to drive in D5 all the time. and i switched to driving in D4 to see if it might be a transmission problem but it's the same issue * LOW RPM* and pretty much sometimes it hesitates i changed everything EGR Valve, Coil packs, Sparkplugs, EGR Port cleaned, checked the coolant, throttle body service,IACV , MAF and nothing worked.....

vannakam

but the part where u said.. the car shakes in park or neutral im not having that problem and most likely it's ur engine mounts..

acurabum

Vannakam : have you ever try to seafoam and reset the ECU ..?

vannakam

yup i tried the seafoam and resetting the ecu..

vannakam

but also there is black gunk deposit around the rear o2 sensor... this might be a hint..

StonedCL

iTrader: (1)

Clean out your EGR port!
I doubt its the tranny from what u r saying!

fsttyms1

My first thing i would look at and replace are the motor mounts. Especially if they havent been replaced yet with that mileage

Phyfox

Any help please, I've replaced timing belt water pump had rebuild transmission some soliniods replaced, soon after this happens I'm putting so much into this car I'm afraid to buy a anything for it again, a weak after buying timing belt kit and pay for help, I need some fresh info please what to do. Flushed radiator drained out pink stuff, waiting for a nother part ordered warmer/cooler interchangable that fits on train not radiator, BDGA trany.

Midnight Mystery

Decade bump!