Oversized oil filter?

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Old 09-21-2010, 10:18 PM
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Oversized oil filter?

Getting ready to change the oil for the first time on my new (to me) 2003 TL-S. I looked at the filters today while shopping and was surprised by how small the filters for this car are! My other vehicle is a Jeep Cherokee 4.0L, which has a fairly large filter. I can't believe that a 3.2L engine's filter would be that much smaller, especially with the change interval that Acura recommends.

So a question to all you ziners out there...do you use an oversized filter in your TL? If so i could use some model numbers to check out.

Note- i will NOT buy a fram, so don't bother suggesting it.
Old 09-22-2010, 04:52 AM
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m104 or 110 is the longer version but its not that much larger capacity
Old 09-22-2010, 05:29 AM
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I have always used M-104. It is a little wider.
Old 09-22-2010, 07:50 AM
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I thought M-104 was the standard size from Mobil1 and M-105 is oversized (wider)?
Old 09-22-2010, 10:39 AM
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m104 mobil1, or 1004 k&N are the only ones I know for sure- thats what I use
thought 110 was longer but Im no filter expert- try www.bobstheoilguy.com
for more info than you ever need to know

the standard filter size is fine in a quality brand- change oil early if you are concerned about filter capacity
essentially, if you can fill one of these filters with crud--you have a crud problem and should seafoam the oil before next change!

a car new to you: I would do a full seafoam regime and if more than 70kmiles go ahead and replace the spark plugs
ck cabin air filter--often never been done -
ck engine air filter
Old 09-22-2010, 01:25 PM
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ok from what i can find:

PureOne: PL14459 is oem, PL24458 is longer (discontinued?)
Mobil 1: M1-104 is oem, M1-105 is wider
K&N: HP-1004 is longer
Old 09-22-2010, 02:20 PM
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Originally Posted by dukie564
ok from what i can find:

PureOne: PL14459 is oem, PL24458 is longer (discontinued?)
Mobil 1: M1-104 is oem, M1-105 is wider
K&N: HP-1004 is longer
this is what i use - i don't think there is a size difference between it and oem. perhaps longer due to the nut welded on the bottom for easy removal.
Old 09-22-2010, 06:31 PM
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cut open a filter at 7500 and it should not be full--most are not

otherwise it goes into `bypass mode`- meaning the filter seals itself off, no oil enters or exits it--
so any more loose stuff circulates in the system,, and doesnt get captured
Old 09-22-2010, 10:59 PM
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Originally Posted by dukie564
ok from what i can find:

PureOne: PL14459 is oem, PL24458 is longer (discontinued?)
Mobil 1: M1-104 is oem, M1-105 is wider
K&N: HP-1004 is longer
Yeah 105 is the wider one. I did a lot of research on this when choosing which filter to go with and I was actually going to try the 105 because a lot of people actually use it, but the store didn't have any so I just went with the regular M1-104.

I've read on Azine of people saying "a bigger filter lets more oil into the engine quicker, thus giving you better performance" and stuff like that. Is it true?
Old 09-22-2010, 11:52 PM
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Honda changed its orginal size long time ago to a one size fits all which is narrower.
- m1-104 is about the size of the original honda size which is bigger then the current honda oil filter
- k&n HP1004 is the same size as m104
- m105 is wider, but the o-ring is the same as m104, so it fits just fine.

They should be all good, and should not have oil pressure issue. It is true that oil will pass through faster on wider or bigger filters, however too wide or too big will lead to oil pressure drop. So, there is a limit how wider or bigger it can be.
Old 09-23-2010, 07:33 AM
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Originally Posted by finalcross

I've read on Azine of people saying "a bigger filter lets more oil into the engine quicker, thus giving you better performance" and stuff like that. Is it true?
flase the size of the filter can not over ride the size of the ports in the block which are the limiting factors, not the amount of oil in the filter.
Old 09-23-2010, 03:20 PM
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What's up with Fram?
I have used them ever since Honda standardized and downsized the oem.
At 3000 miles the oil comes out looking just about how it did when it went in.

Please explain.

Also, while a restrictive filter MAY affect pressure with rpm changes, at a steady rpm it would just limit flow capacity.
A large filter has no adverse effect it will just add volume to the oil system.

Last edited by RC99TL; 09-23-2010 at 03:27 PM. Reason: additional comment
Old 09-23-2010, 05:14 PM
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^ why change the oil @ 3k if it looks like brand new oil. you can easily go to 5-7.5k on dino, its not like our engine cares.
Old 09-23-2010, 06:00 PM
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if your oil looks brand new, its probably not doing a very good job
Should be cleaning crud as it flows, and holding some stuff in suspension-
things too small for a filter to catch

what oil are you running
Old 09-23-2010, 08:57 PM
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i pretty much only use fram. No issues in near 1 million miles of usage in my vehicles.
Old 09-24-2010, 08:12 AM
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Mobil-1 10-30
Old 09-24-2010, 12:18 PM
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Originally Posted by fsttyms1
i pretty much only use fram. No issues in near 1 million miles of usage in my vehicles.

there are several test reports comparing oil filters, all show that the frame filters are the worst choice, basicly a piece of cardboard in a tin can that doesn't filter shit. Wix and the off labled Napa Gold (aka Wix) are at the top, You decide how much crud you want floating inside of your engine, I choose to use a quality filter that actually filters the dirt from the oil, frams don't cut it so they are never used.
Old 09-24-2010, 12:25 PM
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Originally Posted by RC99TL
What's up with Fram?
I have used them ever since Honda standardized and downsized the oem.
At 3000 miles the oil comes out looking just about how it did when it went in.

Please explain.

Also, while a restrictive filter MAY affect pressure with rpm changes, at a steady rpm it would just limit flow capacity.
A large filter has no adverse effect it will just add volume to the oil system.
capacity is the volume, flow is the amount of that volume moving, the capacity is controlled by the passage diameter and the orifaces in the system control flow rates at different locations. A dirty filter reduces the flow lowering the volume of oil in the system. A large filter does not effect any of this the only effect it has is that it has a larger capacity to filter more dirt from the oil increasing the time before the filter becomes restrictive and begins lowering the flow rate and volume of oil in the system.
Old 09-26-2010, 12:54 AM
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Its only that fram sucks, its that you can get a better filter for less money (supertech for example).

and no one likes the purolator pureone?
Old 09-26-2010, 09:17 AM
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M-104, is a much bigger filter than new OEM Honda filter they will put for your car.
Old 09-26-2010, 09:21 AM
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Ok I'll go Mobil 1 M-104 this next round!
Old 09-26-2010, 12:18 PM
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You think the filter for the TL is small? You should see the filter used in the Nissan Titans (5.6 V8). Next time you're at the parts store, take a look at a Fram PH7317. That's what they use. The Chevy/GMC 4.8/5.3 V8s use a PH3506 which is about the same size as the TL stock filter. Size does not seem to be a huge factor.
Old 09-26-2010, 03:12 PM
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Originally Posted by aznboi2424

and no one likes the purolator pureone?
i am currently using purolator pureone filter, seems like a very good filter.
Old 09-26-2010, 05:29 PM
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little late, but i personally use Carquest's 85334 filter (oversized too), which is basically just a WIX filter, and resonably priced at the same time too (and never have pierced one when trying to remove them, where i have pieced a couple of those tin can fram's, trying to loosen them, or even crushed them with a band wrench)


and as far as the person that mentioned a jeep filter's size, a honda runs ALOT cleaner then a jeep, so as a side effect of that is that also the oil should not be getting quite as dirty, which also means it can get away with a smaller filter at the same time

Last edited by friesm2000; 09-26-2010 at 05:31 PM.
Old 09-26-2010, 07:14 PM
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why do people even care oversize or not. M-104 is already bigger than what you will get from your dealer, why even bother going bigger?? Its not like filtration or engines have issues. I am running Mobil1 oil and M1-104 filter since the car was new, the engine runs excellent.
Old 09-26-2010, 07:53 PM
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Originally Posted by rcb2000
there are several test reports comparing oil filters, all show that the frame filters are the worst choice, basicly a piece of cardboard in a tin can that doesn't filter shit. Wix and the off labled Napa Gold (aka Wix) are at the top, You decide how much crud you want floating inside of your engine, I choose to use a quality filter that actually filters the dirt from the oil, frams don't cut it so they are never used.
works for me. If they were that bad they wouldnt be on the market. And please Dont tell me my motor wont last either. If there is that much crap in your oil that needs to be filtered in the first place i dont care how good the filter filters. Something is wrong.
Old 09-26-2010, 09:23 PM
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Originally Posted by fsttyms1
works for me. If they were that bad they wouldnt be on the market. And please Dont tell me my motor wont last either. If there is that much crap in your oil that needs to be filtered in the first place i dont care how good the filter filters. Something is wrong.
but the thing is though that you change it so often though, that it does not matter as much though (let alone never actually cooling off really); compared to people who park there car all day at work, when it is going to be more important


btw didn't you replace your motor at 200k or something also
Old 09-27-2010, 12:53 AM
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Modern car engines do not produce nearly as much crud in the engine as they used to. Oil today is leaps and bounds better than it used to be 20 years ago and engines are also much more efficient which is why newer vehicles have filters that seem to be shrinking in size every year.

Do you really think that extra 1/2" difference in diameter and/or length is going to matter much, if at all? I don't.
Old 09-27-2010, 03:15 AM
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fsttyms pulled his motor at 200 to install a cl-s motor and 6 speed
not due to any failure,, besides 5 auto trans deaths
he tore the engine down for inspection- cylinder walls looked brand new with honing marks still present!

he did the first 100k on dino and 7500 interval, 2nd 100 on m-1/fram and 15,000!! mile interval-- with oil analysis by blackstone labs

if you have severe ring blow-by putting crud directly into the oil, then frequent oil changes and max filtration capacity are required

look at the filter for an 80s chevy, its giant,,,and a TL is almost miniature

I like to run just under 1/2 can of seafoam in oil and drive 30-45 minutes before oil change,,every other change/15
keeps crud from layering on itself, scours oil passages and seems to improve vtec operation (runs off oil pressure changes)

beyond that- quality oil and filter
--those supertech (wallys) filters lack the anti-drainback valve and are low quality when compared side by side to almost any brand on the shelf

my bike uses same filter as the TL, its frequent changes, every 1500-2500miles, lets me test several brands a year
K&N wins as easiest to remove!!
Old 09-27-2010, 11:34 AM
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only reason the filter isn't easy to remove is that the installer over tightened it in the first place, hand tight is tight enough, never use a oil wrench to install, coat of oil on the oring and hand tighten then it comes right off by hand no tools required.
Old 09-27-2010, 12:43 PM
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its whatever the maker says for torque spec, directions/method written on filter,
usually contact of the filter seal to the engine plate plus 1/2 or 3/4 turn- as example-
equals a hard hand tight

Space is the reason for my liking the nut on the end, hot filter is no fun to deal with
I own the right wrench and socket, and a few filter wrenches, change my own oil.
its more difficult to reach and spin on the bike, definetly wins my vote there

oversized by a few ounces isnt going to prevent or protect any better than any decent filter of stock size
Most of us use something larger then oe filter just by getting one aftermarket/parts store

use whatever brand oil and filter makes you feel good about its purchase
If your gut says some econo oil/filter is garbage- dont buy it for the TL!!
Old 09-27-2010, 12:46 PM
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also, I suggest partial prefilling of the new filter, let the paper soak up some new oil, that prevents dry starts as filter must be full before oil can flow to engine--watch the oil light at startup to see the differance
Old 09-28-2010, 01:10 PM
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Tom, your saying supertech < fram?

Personally I wouldnt even talk about these low priced filters for my CL. I go for the higher priced filters cause I run longer intervals (7.5k-10k)

I suggest using a purolator made filter. The purolator classic is a good filter and the price is good too when it has a mail-in rebate. I use those on my mom's camry most of the time. Although I've really liked the wix filters I've put on there too.

Last edited by aznboi2424; 09-28-2010 at 01:14 PM.
Old 09-28-2010, 02:01 PM
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Originally Posted by 01tl4tl
also, I suggest partial prefilling of the new filter, let the paper soak up some new oil, that prevents dry starts as filter must be full before oil can flow to engine--watch the oil light at startup to see the differance
waiste of time the pump is still primed and it sucks the oil out of the oil pan not the filter, yes there is a lag time before the pressure builds but the oil is flowing the instant the oil pump turns is the pressure up no but the volume is the same and it's the volume that makes the difference not the pressure. The only issue pressure related are the lifters and it's really not going to make much of a difference if the valve doesn't move as far for a couple of revolutions.

What a joke torquing an oil filter please, tight spot to get too, hell I have hugh hands and don't have an issue, need to work on your mechanic skills and spend less time in the book. but to each their own if that's what floats your boat more power too you, I'll fall back on my design and mechanical skills personally.
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