I think form what I've read that both foam and gauze/cotton filters are better than regular paper ones. So what do you guys think, is K&N's gauze filter better than Amsoil's foam?
Amsoil's site says that both filters have the same air flow capability, but that Amosil is better in dirt removal (something I'm really concerned about).
On K&N's site, there is no mention of dirt removal comparison, but it does say that its air flow capabilities are about 2.5 x better than any foam filter. They even said that a dirty K&N would have more air flow than a new foam filter.
I've heard some good stuff about foam filters, so I don't which way to go. I'm not concerned about better performance and fuel ecenomy as much as i'm concerned with better dirt filtering.

 

Based on my past experiences with a K&N cone filter, and what I found on the INSIDE of the one in my Accord (small particles), I wont be puting one in the TL-S both for that reason and the added noise. I went with the Comptech Drop in which is a foam type. Its free flowing compared to stock(it gives me that little CAI woosh when I shut off teh engine), but hold it up to light and it doesnt let as much through.

 

Mr. Hyde, I was looking at K&N's filters that would be a direct replacement for the stock filter. What happened with the one you had - not enough filtering capability? If that's the case, do you think it may be due to the fact that it was a free standing filter (it didn't have the plastic cover like the stock ones do)?
Thanks.

 

Sorry I cant comment too much on the direct replacement K&N, I had the cone type. Although since its the same media I doubt its filtering capacity is much better. The K7N media is just too thin and freeflowing for my taste. Hold it up to light and see for yourself. I did the same with the Comptech which is a foam type and felt it would do a much better job. I run full synthetic in my car and I dont chaneg it every 3k, so I want the oil as clean as it could be for the longers time periods with a freer flowing filter. I felt the Comptech Unifilter foam filter style was my best option.

 

K & N will tell you that their filter medium has far higher flow than a foam filter (as you state), and that the dirt sticks to the filter, increasing its air flow. I couldn't see light through the drop in filter as Mr. Hyde suggests, but he had the cone filter, which is a different product. I can't comment on the foam filters as I haven't tried them in the past, perhaps someone else could.

I'm glad you're not concerned with better performance because despite what both the foam and gauze folks say about it on their sites, I just haven't noticed it with the K & N. I DO notice better fuel consumption, a direct concern for me since I drive 1500-2000 miles/month. I also get a nicer growl when I activate VTEC.

 

that is untrue, they are roughly equal.

one thing that k&n doesn't mention is the fact that it passes 2.5 times more dirt too.

aftermarket foam/gauze filters become more efficient as they get dirtier, but they will never come close to the filtering capability of your stock cellulose filter.

i wonder if oiled foam plus gauze filter would help any?

k&n should only be used on the track.

 

There is no free lunch. If you are flowing more air through a filter that has roughly the same surface area as the stock one it replaced, then it's letting more dirt in. Paper, Foam, spun fiber, etc.- it doesn't matter.

If you want more flow, the best solution is a bigger filter.

 

Amsoil's foam filter is oiled foam. I thought the foam ones would trap more dirt than stock paper filters? Somebody recommended foam filters b/c it forms a seal inside your filter housing and it just filters better. Does anyone know of any quality brands out there?

 

I actually don't care about more flow, I want the best engine protection (dirt trapping) available.

 

I won't put in a K&N in my car either.

You've had enough of the oil talk Sniper? Well, let Road Rage give you some insight into air filters now. Here is a good thread on air filters. Go down to Raod Rages's post, it's a pretty good read.


http://www.acura-tl.com/forum/showth...ghlight=filter

 

tuff gong,

thank you for the link. i didn't realize search is back online

 

I cant believe there is sooooo much talk about something as unimportant as oil and filters..Just change the oil/filter and stop worrying about it..We dont drive race cars or even exotic cars, we just drive really nice suped up accords, and our cars will take anything you give it and drive perfectly fine..Oil and filters dont need to be such a popular discussion, it's almost funny.

 

It doesn't matter if you're planning on trading your car in after 50k-60k miles. if you want a cheap and effective way of increasing longevity, I think good oil and filter is the way to go.
to some of us, this stuff matters. Plus, i like the convinience of 10,000 miles oil changes.

 

Believe it or not, the stock filter probably provides that. Certainly better than an oil based aftermarket.

"Back in the day" ('20s, 30s), many air filters were oil based, from the factory. Now, none are. Why do you think that is?

 

Actually, oil bath air filter's were better at filtering the air. It wasn't a oil soaked cotton element, but a container of oil (like a upsidedown funnel cake mold) that splashed oil on some rough metal grill...ahh looked like meatal scrappings. It was the stock set-up on my old !972 Beetle.....Until I completely rebuilt the motor ehhh car?! with hi-po this and that with dual carbs:p....(what was I thinking...suping up a V-Dub ...ahhh that car was fun:p)

The stock carb were impecably clean inside.....later with the dual carb and K&N's, they were still clean, but I noticed a difference....Hmmm, maybe I had that puppy sucking in so my air and that's why it was dirtier..?:p


Here's a bit on oil bath filter;

How it works
When the engine starts, it sucks a certain amount of the oil out of the cup allowing it to coat the packed-in metal "shavings". This packing causes a massive increase in the amount of oil soaked surface area available to stop dirt particles. The cannister is designed to be the correct height to allow the proper weight oil to not be sucked into the engine but only pulled to the top of the can.

Uncleaned air is sucked in by the same vacuum that draws the oil up on the "shavings". The air is drawn downward towards the oil sump at the bottom of the cannister, usually through a center pipe. Any particles that are truly "large" will likely continue down into the oil left at the bottom of the cup and be trapped. The small dirt particles are trapped on the oil soaked "shavings" as the air moves upward through the outer cannister. If the correct weight oil is in the cup, the end result is that the air leaves the top of the cannister clean.


Potential Problems
The first problem comes with using the wrong weight oil. Use of oil that is too light will cause the oil to be drawn beyond the filter and into the engine. Use of oil that is too heavy will not allow the oil to be drawn up far enough and much of the air cleaning surface area ends up being unused. Manufacturer owner manuals always show the oil weight that is designed for the system. Engineering of the system (we hope) will have picked just the right weight for the size of the cannister, cup, and vacuum pressure.

The second problem comes when the cup is not cleaned regularly. Manuals always recommend daily refilling of the cup and suggest even more frequent cleanings under dusty conditions. The oil may look clean in the cup but after a few hours of running but it has trapped a significant quantity of small particles many of which will be drawn back up into the cleaning surfaces. When the particles-to-oil ratio reaches a certain level, the dirt will begin to hang on (or "sludge up") on the cleaning surfaces. Eventually, instead of just clean air being sucked into the intake, you have chunks of dirt and sludge going with it. Obviously this can be quickly damaging to the engine. If your cannister is filled with sludge, clean it out before using it or it could do more harm than good.

The last problem is with radically altered machines. The oil bath is engineered for the stock engine. Radical changes to the engine mandate changes to the air cleaning system. Care should also be exercised if replacing your oil bath filter. The replacement should be similar in size and engineered capacity to the original.

 

about dirt here are some good sites.

http://www.gtrowner.com/induction.html

This one is in japanesse.
http://www.mkiv.com/techarticles/filters_test/1/

IMO for drop-in filter comptech foam filter is my choice.

 

dude, we're pretty much all "car guys", regardless that we don't drive ferraris, if we didn't get involved in oil and filter discussions what else would we be doin???

back to the topic: Personally I think foam filters work best, I've had HKS powerflow foam filters on my talon for 10 years, the car has almost 130K hard miles on it, and still runs great.

 

I was going to get the Comptech foam, but ended getting a better deal on the K&N. Hopefully it will not give me problems in the TLS. My old Sentra and Maxima had no problems with the K&N.

 

I have the K&N drop-in

I can tell you that it is 2x thinner than the stock filter

As for performance...can't tell a differance

 

removed the resornator.