Hi, I tried searching this forum with no luck. Does anyone know the specific torque specifications for the oil pan bolts? Also, is there a certain crisscross pattern i must follow?

Thanks.

 

yes always do a cross from each other pattern so torque load is spread gently across the metal and gasket
There is usually a special procedure order if the bolts are not in a perfect square
but you can get close with a good guess

Check kragen.com help section for torque spec- if 8-12mm head probably 10 foot lbs- gently tight- enought to seal the gasket but not push it out

On areas like that I use a `gasket cinch liquid` on the end on the bolt threads- to help them stay tight
Be prepared to bring torque up in 3 steps- keep repeating the bolts until everything is equal

 

Thanks for the quick reply. I checked the Chiltons manual (didn't know it was combined with the Integra) and found the torque specs i need. Funny their method of removing the oil pan involves a lot of b.s.


My current problem now is that the oil pan won't come off. I tried beating it with a rubber mallet, prying it in areas with leverage (not any place where it seals) and a razor blade won't even fit in between. Ideas? Really trying to knock this out asap for a friend.

 

double check for a missed bolt or clip holding it
then tap with the rubber mallet along the seal- thats all you can do except the noted pry points
gently pry at that

Also get a spray can of `gasket remover`- shoot it in the seam and it should weaken the gasket enough to break the bond

 

Got it off. guess i was just too tired last night.

Is it sure that the subframe bar doesn't have to be removed? I can't see how i could take off the pan since there is no room really to work around it.

 

The final torque spec is 8.7 lb./ft. (12 N-m). You need to get to that spec in two or three steps according to the book.

Start at the middle bolts on the long sides of the pan and do the criss-cross pattern from there.

 

Subframe doesnt need to be removed but the exhaust Y pipe does.

 

Yeah i put the new oil pan in. The problem though now is that the low oil pressure light is on. I am pretty much confused as to why though. The following things are different:
- New OEM Oil pan
- Honda oil filter
- Regular oil to synthetic

I opened up the oil cap and started the car. It looked dry up there. Compared to my LS motor in the integra, the LS was squirting oil up on my face.

I didn't even touch the oil pump. Any ideas?

 

Is the wire to the sensor hooked up?
maybe the O.P. senser is plugged with crud?
How was the oil pickup tube and screen inside the pan?

That did get put back on with a new oring.. or whatever gasket? right????
Is the engine clacking?? like its not getting oil?
the filter didnt leak all the oil out?
Whats the dipstick reading???

Switching oil wont mess anything up- you can change back and forth every week
and the engine doesnt care

I would check the oil pressure with a seperate reading guage- know exactly what you have at idle and rpm
hopefully its a 10 buck sensor unit

 

did an accident over a curb cause this oil pan install?
could have damaged the pickup tube in that case--just shooting ideas here for things to look at-
but
checking and removing the sendor and cleaning with carb spray or replacing it would be first
and temporarily install a pressure guage to know whats really happening, sensor or engine prob

 

Wishful thinking, I bet there isn't a sensor on the thing that cheap....

 

Sounds like something isnt plugged in

 

There are 2 different pans for 01 and 02. 01 is 11200P8A-A00, 02 is 11200PGE-A00. The 01 pan is shallower, and if put on an 02 engine will cover the sump inlet and cause this problem. You can take out most of the bolts to drop the pan 10mm or so see if this is the problem. The light will go out in a couple seconds if this is the problem. Check your vin# and your part# first. I've had 2 misboxed honda parts in the last few weeks, something I've never seen before, so even if you are supposed to have the correct part, you might not. I didn't catch what year your car was. Does it have the original engine?

 

>..< They gave me the wrong oil pan then. I asked the guy if there were any differences for the generation he told me no.

I called them they said they'll give me the right one tomorrow. I just got to clean it i guess.

It's an 02 Base TL.

 

good knowledge there Trash!!! who would have know that kind of detail!
I went for the obvious- not the likely lol

Its a good reminder to all: when buying used to parts match them side by side for assurance

 

I am going to wait for them to call me today. Hopefully they give me the other oil pan without questions because they could easily argue saying it was my fault and that i asked for an 01 oil pan and the other guy said both oil pans are different.

The TL belongs to a friend, whom does try to take care of her car. Yeah it's original motor with 80k miles 2002. Originally it was supposed to be just change the rotors for the car but her mechanic left no caliper bolts on the caliper mount. The second problem was the oil pan, which was fine but the person had stripped the thread of the pan, replaced it, and stripped it again. >..<. Along with that, i had to change her condensor fan since the blades kept hitting the fan shroud.


Anywhoo, the oil pump should be 100% fine right? It's a mechanical one and i can't see any problems with it. If it was electrical and running dry i could understand it overheating but its not.

 

my oil pan is leaking and decided to open it and reapply honda bond. I have the same problem u did b4, I can't get that the damn oil pan off. i beat it with a rubber mallet, tried to pry it, kicked the heck out of it. Any ideas? I asked for the gasket remover thing someone suggested at the local store and he had no clue what i was talking about.

Btw I have 163K miles.

 

anybody wanna help me out? I was trying to finish this today


Thanks

 

There is a dust cover on back of transmission There is two bolts under it !


My current problem now is that the oil pan won't come off. I tried beating it with a rubber mallet, prying it in areas with leverage (not any place where it seals) and a razor blade won't even fit in between. Ideas? Really trying to knock this out asap for a friend.[/QUOTE]