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I failed the safety inspection for having an aftermarket HID kit. The bulbs are D2R but the inspector told me I need to put back the original HID kit. Is it the ballast and ignitor?
^
Just curious, could it be the reason the 'inspector' is being a PIA be more of an issue of where you have mounted the ballasts on the radiator support, in terms of 'safety'?
Since the OEM one normally lives under each headlight unit and is not 'viewable' like your current ballast mount set-up?
Seems like it. Can you find a way to mount the ballast in the original location (beneath the headlamp where the OEM ballast is normally mounted)?
You'd probably need a way to route the wiring in a less conspicuous way, there's probably a safety concern with the wires being out like that.
Are you dem ballasts still in tact? I believe that they seal the headlamp assembly to prevent elements (dirt, dust and moisture) from getting inside the headlamp, without it the headlamps will definitely not be as clear as they could be on the inside.
Are you interested in some part numbers for replacement parts that will fit oem style and work with the bulbs you have? I replaced my headlamps beginning of the year and can provide some good and some bad part numbers.
It could be. That's a good point. Now that I recall he did mention something about the wires.
Originally Posted by zeta
^
Just curious, could it be the reason the 'inspector' is being a PIA be more of an issue of where you have mounted the ballasts on the radiator support, in terms of 'safety'?
Since the OEM one normally lives under each headlight unit and is not 'viewable' like your current ballast mount set-up?
Seems like it. Can you find a way to mount the ballast in the original location (beneath the headlamp where the OEM ballast is normally mounted)?
You'd probably need a way to route the wiring in a less conspicuous way, there's probably a safety concern with the wires being out like that.
Are you dem ballasts still in tact? I believe that they seal the headlamp assembly to prevent elements (dirt, dust and moisture) from getting inside the headlamp, without it the headlamps will definitely not be as clear as they could be on the inside.
Are you interested in some part numbers for replacement parts that will fit oem style and work with the bulbs you have? I replaced my headlamps beginning of the year and can provide some good and some bad part numbers.
The person who installed the aftermarket kit suggested mounting it this way because of the size or something else, but I can't remember exactly, as it was so long ago—about 10 years ago
dem ballasts?
Are you interested in some part numbers for replacement parts that will fit oem style and work with the bulbs you have? I replaced my headlamps beginning of the year and can provide some good and some bad part numbers.
The person who installed the aftermarket kit suggested mounting it this way because of the size or something else, but I can't remember exactly, as it was so long ago—about 10 years ago
So, just to clarify, did the installer actually remove the headlight assemblies to remove the broken bottom mounted OEM ballats/igniters or are they still there?
I only ask because when I replaced mine, many years ago, with an aftermarket set-up, there was some 'fabrication' involved to get them (ballasts/igniters) bottom mounted on the headlight assemblies.
Then, of course, there was the whole reinstall of the assemblies and FSM adjustment process for proper aim of the hi & low beams.
Bad parts being some parts I found on Amazon that do work, but lack some identical behaviors to the oem ballast and ignitor.
In short the Dorman parts work closest to, but cost a little more relative to others and the ignitor isn’t listed for the acura TL, it’s listed for the Honda s2000, but I can confirm it works.
It sounds like you’re going to stay the route of remounting your existing ballast hardware though, which is probably the same route I’d take.
So, just to clarify, did the installer actually remove the headlight assemblies to remove the broken bottom mounted OEM ballats/igniters or are they still there?
I only ask because when I replaced mine, many years ago, with an aftermarket set-up, there was some 'fabrication' involved to get them (ballasts/igniters) bottom mounted on the headlight assemblies.
Then, of course, there was the whole reinstall of the assemblies and FSM adjustment process for proper aim of the hi & low beams.
I'm not sure, that's a good question. I can try to ask my mechanic to see if they can find out for me tomorrow. But I remember that the installer had to modify the cables in order to install the aftermarket kit. But everything is coming back to me now. I think it was removed. I will have to check to see if I still have it stored somewhere in the garage.
Bad parts being some parts I found on Amazon that do work, but lack some identical behaviors to the oem ballast and ignitor.
In short the Dorman parts work closest to, but cost a little more relative to others and the ignitor isn’t listed for the acura TL, it’s listed for the Honda s2000, but I can confirm it works.
It sounds like you’re going to stay the route of remounting your existing ballast hardware though, which is probably the same route I’d take.
If I try remounting the hardware wouldn't the inspector be on alert and try to further inspect to see if I did the right thing? Wouldn't it be best just to install the OEM ballast and ignitor?
I'm not sure, that's a good question. I can try to ask my mechanic to see if they can find out for me tomorrow. But I remember that the installer had to modify the cables in order to install the aftermarket kit. But everything is coming back to me now. I think it was removed. I will have to check to see if I still have it stored somewhere in the garage.
That's why I asked, to whitiger5's point above, if the #7 OEM ballast (control unit assembly) was removed and the hole it occupied in the headlight assembly were not covered, debris would likely show inside the lens area?
Originally Posted by TL260power
If I try remounting the hardware wouldn't the inspector be on alert and try to further inspect to see if I did the right thing? Wouldn't it be best just to install the OEM ballast and ignitor?
The only items that appear available (link below) are the #7 control unit assembly ($502.17ea. ) and the #20 gasket, the #10 HID igniter is discontinued. Headlight - 2002 Acura TL 4 Door TYPE-S KA 5AT
That's why I asked, to whitiger5's point above, if the #7 OEM ballast (control unit assembly) was removed and the hole it occupied in the headlight assembly were not covered, debris would likely show inside the lens area?
Current HIDs at night
I have a mechanic who can check that. I don't have issues with debris showing inside the lens area. However, the lens area fogs up, but it may still be there. Is there a way to see it without removing the head unit?
The only items that appear available (link below) are the #7 control unit assembly ($502.17ea. ) and the #20 gasket, the #10 HID igniter is discontinued. Headlight - 2002 Acura TL 4 Door TYPE-S KA 5AT
Oh wow.
Last edited by TL260power; Dec 19, 2024 at 02:56 PM.
I think the solution is up to how much you want to spend on it. Shouldn’t cost much to remove the bumper, relocate the aftermarket ballasts under the headlamp, and tuck the wiring away. Ideally, route that wiring through the bottom of the headlamp, there are internal mounting points inside the headlamp to support that.
A more extensive solution: use it as an opportunity to update your headlamps; you will be pleasantly surprised at how clearer and brighter the road is lit with a new set. And frankly affordable. I calculate the low end for parts to be $200 for headlamps, $50 for ignitors and $100 for ballasts through rockauto and Amazon.
Is there a way to see it without removing the head unit?
If you have a small mechanics mirror you may be able to on the passenger side headlight assembly.
Here are a couple from my CL-S passenger side, sorry that they are blurry.
You can see the yellow sticker on the aftermarket ballast, though barely.
Not sure if you'd have the same access on your TL.
The $64K question is how did you get away passing yearly inspections, with the ballasts at their present location, all of these years?
If you have a small mechanics mirror you may be able to on the passenger side headlight assembly.
Here are a couple from my CL-S passenger side, sorry that they are blurry.
You can see the yellow sticker on the aftermarket ballast, though barely.
Not sure if you'd have the same access on your TL.
The $64K question is how did you get away passing yearly inspections, with the ballasts at their present location, all of these years?
I believe the new law was implemented in Virginia a couple of years ago. A friend of mine recommended a shop owned by her friend, who helped get it passed.
I believe the new law was implemented in Virginia a couple of years ago. A friend of mine recommended a shop owned by her friend, who helped get it passed.
Understood, it would be interesting to see how the new law criteria reads in order to narrow the inspector down to a 'rejectable' verdict?
I think the solution is up to how much you want to spend on it. Shouldn’t cost much to remove the bumper, relocate the aftermarket ballasts under the headlamp, and tuck the wiring away. Ideally, route that wiring through the bottom of the headlamp, there are internal mounting points inside the headlamp to support that.
A more extensive solution: use it as an opportunity to update your headlamps; you will be pleasantly surprised at how clearer and brighter the road is lit with a new set. And frankly affordable. I calculate the low end for parts to be $200 for headlamps, $50 for ignitors and $100 for ballasts through rockauto and Amazon.
Understood, it would be interesting to see how the new law criteria reads in order to narrow the inspector down to a 'rejectable' verdict?
A quick google search came up with the below Code of Virginia, relating to headlights on motor vehicles information as of March 2023.
Not sure how accurate or relevant it is to OP's issue; however, the fact that his aftermarket ballasts are mounted on the radiator support versus underneath the headlight assemblies does not convey an OEM set-up is present.
If his current 'aftermarket' ballasts could be mounted 'out of site', my guess is the inspector(s) would not even notice his set-up was aftermarket.
That is unless the current bulbs give it away with a blue light, peaking their curiosity and causing them to 'dig' deeper to find out?
I think the solution is up to how much you want to spend on it. Shouldn’t cost much to remove the bumper, relocate the aftermarket ballasts under the headlamp, and tuck the wiring away. Ideally, route that wiring through the bottom of the headlamp, there are internal mounting points inside the headlamp to support that.
A more extensive solution: use it as an opportunity to update your headlamps; you will be pleasantly surprised at how clearer and brighter the road is lit with a new set. And frankly affordable. I calculate the low end for parts to be $200 for headlamps, $50 for ignitors and $100 for ballasts through rockauto and Amazon.
I can't find the Ignitor at Rockauto. However, I found the HID Ballast -https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=16145313&cc=1377008&pt=15962&jsn=2 993
