I just bought a 99 TL and need to replace the o2 sensor(stated by the owner) the owner I bought it from said it's easy to replace but he didn't have the owner's manual and I def don't want to pay %$ money for one so I'm asking my Acurazine Fam what to do and how to do it or should I take it to a auto spot and have them do it and of course is it expensive?

 

Welcome to the forums!!

You will definitely have better luck on the TL section of the site... so I will move this there for you so your fellow 2nd Gen'ers can help you out!!

 

Welcome to the forum. The O2 sensor (s) are easy to replace (must jack up the car and remove them from underneath) BUT you need to know which one it is that needs to be replaced. There are 2 of them. Do you have a Check engine light on?

 

I don't have any codes or anything but I was wondering if putting in new O2 sensors would help a rough idle? Mine are original.

 

It's possible, although typically not. A rough idle, but not rough enough to cause a misfire [and a check engine light] is commonly caused by tight exhaust valves. They're supposed to be adjusted at 105,000 miles, but typically won't show symptoms until 175,000 or so.

 

are you getting any codes? which ones?

 

i was thinking on replacing both since it's an old model and I don't really know which one it is I'm only going by what the owner told me and I do have a check eng light on. Where should i order them from Tire Rack.com or just go to auto zone or Orielly's??

 

parts store will scan codes for the CEL
the ck eng light will reveal a code saying front bank or rear bank o2 sensor--if thats the problem
front is most common to fail, and does most of the actual work

it goes ahead of the cat--monitoring what comes out of the engine, sending info to the ECU which adjust things= to reduce excess unburnt fuel

the rear test the cats performance at transmuting certain ~fumes~
comparing in and out exhaust values of the cat

either local store is fine--
get a DENSO brand sensor--its the OE supplier and plugs right in

DO purchase the special tool- `O2 sensor installer/removal socket,,~$10?
located on the tool shelf of parts stores everywhere
will make life way easier for you!!

pre-treat the threads on old sensor with wd40 or similar, sprayed on a few times and left to sit overnight

 

Thanks I really appreciate the feed back I think I'm going to try and do the job myself since I've seen some vids on youtube and it does look quit easy.

 

Like nsnrider mentioned earlier, at least get the code[s] read. It might have nothing to do with o2 sensors.

 

STOP............... BEFORE you buy anything, GET the codes read. Tell us what the code/s are.

 

I've been a certified auto electrical/drivability technician going on 10 years. In my time, I've seen MAYBE 3 cars with a rough idle caused by an oxygen sensor. As mentioned several times before, if you have a "check engine" light on, go to am AutoZone and they will scan the code(s) for free...followed by somewhat educated recommendations on what to replace in order to eliminate the code. Once the code(s) has been obtained, list them here. They will be something like PXXX (X=numbers). With the codes, people here can offer advice based on the code given. However, these will still be somewhat "guesses" but educated one's at that. Anyways, if you DON'T have a "check engine" light on, several possibilities could be the cause. 1) The engines computer has not yet detected an issue (though it may show symptoms) because of lack of time or the issue is small enough to where error parameters have not yet been recorded or noticed. 2) the actual "check engine" light bulb is burned out and therefore cannot illuminate. This can be done by doing a "bulb check": turn the key to ON position (not starting or cranking the engine) and most malfunction indicator lights will illuminate by a small unit that's specifically designed to check bulb operation and integrity. 3) (which is somewhat of a continuation from number 2) the actual "check engine" light bulb circuitry could be damaged or malfunctioning. Possible causes here are the PCM (engine computer) itself, the wiring or maybe even a blown fuse.

Let us know if there is a check engine light and if so, the codes given....sorry for the excessive explanation. Better to be thorough in certain situations than vague.

Good Luck and congrats on owning your new (to you) TL! You will adore that thing as long as you own it as long as you take care of it!

 

^ This guys knows his stuff.

 

If i really do know my stuff and you know that i know my stuff, you know your stuff too! Lol...

Cars are my life. And i mean that literally.

 

Funny.
With no codes (showing) sounds like time for an egr clean or at lease a full manifold seafoam treatment.
Check the faqs for what needs to be done and how to do it.
good luck!