turkey60

This problem has been happening going on almost 3 years. At first only a few times. I get to what it does before it was a mystery. If I am doing short inner city errands-short distances my 2000 TL will not start it cranks but will not start. When I drive a start on the highway almost 500 miles stop a couple of times to get gas, no problem. I have attempted to find out from Acura shop, other mechanics and no one seems to know what it is. One person said it could be (hopefully not) the catalytic .converter. It started about 3 years ago a couple of times and then it stopped for many months and and then it started again the following year and now it happens much more frequently. I now know if I have to do 2 short trips (not long hard driving) I will have to wait about 15 minutes for it to cool down. I must take care of it because I sometimes do not have the patience to wait it out and I somewhat force it to drive when it has not cooled itself down yet. Its a hard rumbling start and I know I am not helping it all doing, I know something is going to give.

fsttyms1

Some have had similar symptoms and it seems to be a vapor lock. Some have had success replacing the fuel pressure regulator, others had to replace the ECU as well. Are you in a cold climate area where they use winter blends for fuel? Are you using 91+ octane?

The other thing it could very well be is the PGM-FI Main Relay. Its under the steering column. Cheap and easy to fix. Very common problem with your exact symptoms. If i remember right, Its right next to the brake switch (the little switch that makes contact with the brake pedal to turn off the brake lights when you are not depressing the brake pedal) It’s a little box about 1 x2 inches with seven wires coming in from the bottom.

01tl4tl

when you say hot- do you mean more than halfway on the temp gauge, or just engine warm from driving -at normal temp?

I agree with the above post- he is our MASTER of the TL, ck the pgm relay-
also the solder under its board is weak and has been at fault in recent post by others

Also suspect the ignition switch back- electrical part- many keys on the key ring?
99s had a recall for 1 time replacement and still needs another one or 3 in the cars life.
No reason to believe every 2000 got a suddenly improved design part.
Think GM ign prob not solved as example

take a look in our DIY section, 5th item down main thread list `New Official 2nd gen DIY..`

turkey60

Thanks so much for the information. I will suggest these items to a mechanic. I will try and avoid the dealer with this information. The have replaced the relay about a year ago and that obviously was not the issue. I am using 91+ not sure if DC has the winter blends I am thinking not (winters are mild generally). I had my car in Buffalo NY for about 3+weeks (Dec-Jan)it happened only once on a 2nd errand run and the car had been sitting for a while otherwise not a problem. One other question is this a major issue even though it may be a easy fix? So a decent mechanic should be able to fix it for me? Thanks again.

turkey60

The car is not overheating just engine warm. Since this has been happening such a period of time I not look at the gauge and it is never above the mid-line, but I now notice when it drops is then I assume the engine has cooled off andI can start and go...again sometimes my patience gets to me and I force it and it a rough start. Example...yesterday I made one run (I just started an new part-time job-"Instatcart") left the grocery store went to my first delivery (1 mile maybe) and actually hated to turn if off ( when I deliver I try not to turn it off for fear that it would not start) I had to for this delivery car would not be in my sight. I cut the car off and then had to move the car and it barely started...but I was able to move it...made the delivery and returned and of course it did not start had to wait, I looked at the clock and determined how long I would wait, I had another delivery which made me late. I tried to start it very rough rumbling start and it stopped in the reverse gear. I have to take care of this, ASAP...I am now hesitant to take on shifts and stress that the my shopping/deliveries are not spaced enough in time for the car to cool off. I can't keep keeping my car running one day someone is going to steal it while my back is turned. Thank you.

turkey60

What is GM. No heavy keys got rid of that awhile ago. Thanks.

fsttyms1

Another thing to have tested is the radiator/fan control temp sensors. If one is falsely reading and the ECU thinks the engine is too hot it may not be allowing the motor to start. If you had the main relay replaced, the next place i would look is the fuel pressure regulator, or have the dealer swap in a new ecu (you can get them on ebay for next to nothing) to try to see if the problem persists

turkey60

Guess what happened today...? Car was sitting totally cooled went on a quick run had to wait for someone to come to my car...as I was leaving the gauge was all the way into the red area. I pulled over and waited for about 45 minutes until it cooled I saw the gauge return to cool. As I was driving home I watched the gage to start shooting up again and then return back below the mid range area and go up again. My trip home was about 15 minutes. I believe I did not help it by forcing drive on those several occasions before it was ready to go. So as of today it has gotten worst and again thanks I have something to work with when I "find" a mechanic this week. Now I am scared to drive anywhere. Thanks again..when I find the remedy I will send you a note.

Skirmich

^ There is probably some air in the system tricking the Temp Sensor.. Its not un-usual to be honest.

Best way to know if your car is really that hot? Anywhere beyond 3/4th of temp gauge your Fans should be working over-time to cool the engine. Fans have their own switch and sensor to determine the engine temperature. The sensor that make the gauge works is not tied up to the fan switch/sensor so IF the engine was really that hot your fans would be all the time ON.. Next time your needle rises up hear for your fans! if they are blasting on (They don't stop in less than a minute) the engine is really hot... This method doesn't work if you are using A/C on full cold since the fans don't stop to cool the condenser down.


When my temp sensor was acting up it would sometimes go into the RED area and stay there. When it did that I stopped the car and open the hood to feel the heat wave in the engine bay (You can tell in these cars if the engine is crazy hot) but when I checked my fans were off (engine running) and the heat sensation was normal = My Sensor was false reading.

ErickUa5

The only remedy for me has been to dump half a can of seafoam in half a tank of fuel.
Yesterday shortly after filling up I forgot to add seafoam, drove a few miles then let it rest 10 minutes guess what... misfire like crazy for about a minute and stalled twice.

I was thinking of coming up with a vacuum type device to make the regulator open but then there might not be enough fuel pressure to start which then leads to long starts.

Maybe I'll try an 02 TLp ECU and see what happens.

01tl4tl

note: seafoam cleaning dose strength for 1st time users is 2 oz per gal fuel or 1 can in just under half a tank of gas

a midyear maintenance cleaning dose is 1 oz to 1 gal or 1, 16 oz can to just under full tank (tank hold 17.3)

wont hurt to do the 2oz per gal method every time you choose to add seafoam! (4-6 months)
Dose higher than 2oz per gal is not more cleaning ability= and just throws money away.

Use as directed on their website, not just the can directions- written 50 years ago (no kidding)
You should see the discussion on my motorcycle group about amounts to use!

Erick- you want we should diagnose and fix your car- or is adding seafoam your solution
As many diagrams as you post for others- the least we can do is figure out your problem
Your personal issues are another matter- but car problems we can fix!

01tl4tl

turkey
So you USED TP carry a load on th ekey ring? that and its likely to carry the 99 ignition switch issue lesads me to believe that ast least a part of your problem
Replace the back half for 50 buvks part at local store and follow our diy to install
that should fix a good part of the no start

Also - the level in res bottle and rad- full rad AND BURPED PER BOOK IF FLUID ADDED
is critical- if there is a leak air gets in and fools the fan sensor into not turning on = overheat condition
Get under the hood for a few minutes and let us know whats happening so we can point you to the next part of the repair
You didnt show up with just 1 problem!

need an owner book: free download from acura at Acura Owners Site | Exclusive Knowledge, Service, & Benefits
register with acura care as owner 1 800 382 2238 x5 for usa cars only
need cars VIN number for both those places

Ask the 800 if all recalls are done- there are newer ones for airbag issue

The GM problem is General Motors - the big car maker knowingly used a worthless ignition switch in nearly every model for 10-15 years!!!!!!!!!!
Now they have to recall every one of those cars for a new redesigned switch!!
Even the first cars recalled NOW need another new switch= as they only got the same crud part installed- big help~

jra8858

I ran a bottle of chevron with techron through my tl when it was having rumbly starts. It had a couple of really rough starts/stalls when I would go to restart after I added the techron, but after i ran through that gas and put in new the issue went away for almost 6 months.

01tl4tl

techron is a good product but requires a few to several cans to do a really good job
See other options bg44 and seafoam for regular useage or in severe problem cases

I will admit to using chevron gas in my bikes all the time, and the TL when its nearby.
The included techroline HELPS keep things clean if used every time,
BUT
still need that boost of super cleaner one or two times a year = a clean intake system, pistons, intake valves etc make for a better smoother running ride

prove_it

When the car stalls, do all the electronics shut off too? If so I'd say it's the electrical half of the ignition switch.

01tl4tl

that's what I thought- especially with comment that OP had removed a bunch of keys from the key ring indicates wear could have taken place and now...

but that temp issue...got to be air in system from leaking wp or hose? rad prob etc
Driving with it in the red can lead to major malfunction of head gaskets = blows the main gasket to engine!!

prove_it

You can pull the steering covers off easily and look at the white plastic on the switch electrical. If it's got any black on the outside, that indicates a poor connection and it's arching. Easy check.

The fact that you can drive on the highway but city driving is bad leads me to think the cooling fans are not working like they should. You may have 2 separate issues in this case.