I have a 2000 TL. I posted a little while back about melted lenses inside the low-beam compartments of both headlights. Okay, not a huge deal. I've been looking at replacing both assemblies. I also noticed that my passenger side low-beam is extremely dim, much lower than the driver side bulb. Okay, still not a big deal -- I'll fix it when I replace the assemblies.

New problem:

Earlier today, while checking fluid levels, I looked at the lights in daylight to check them out further. All was well. Tonight, however, I was going to make a run to the store, and I noticed -- my driver side low-beam was completely out! I pulled back into the driveway, and sure enough, it was out completely. The passenger side was still on, and also still very dim.

Because I had checked the fuses and relays under the hood earlier today, I figured I'd check them again, in case I misplaced a fuse or something like that. Everything was fine there. I checked the lights, still nothing on the driver side.

I tapped on the front of the driver side assembly, and the light came back on for a second, then it flickered. And another second later, it slowly faded back out to nothing at all. I tapped on it again, and then again a few minutes later, and still nothing!

Could that be a bad ballast? Bulb? What? I'm new to HID lights, because this is the first car I've ever owned that came equipped with them. I'm considering taking it to a shop to have it looked at, but if I can gather some info here first, that'd help out greatly.

Thanks in advance!

 

On a new note, I've been searching around on here and I've read a lot about HIDExtra.com. I'm thinking I'll order the kit on there. Is there anything I should consider? I like the 8000K (Ice Blue) look. But what about the ballast? Should I get the 35W (Signature), or what?

 

OEM lights are at 4300k.

The sweet spot in light is between 4100K to 4300K. That gives you the whitest light and the best ability to see at night or in the rain.

I have heard complaints about the amount of light you will get, especially in the rain, if you go much over 5000K.

 

Yeah, as EnzyteBob previously stated..... go with no more than 5000k for the best lighting.

Wonder what cooked the headlamp lenses ? Have ya replaced the low beam "HID" bulbs with the correct size ?

If all else fails, just replace the entire original HID set-up with the newer aftermarket kits avalable for less than $100. Check out the "DIY" sticky for installation tips.

 

Thank you both. Yeah, I'm not sure what cooked the lenses. It's weird. I bought the car used, pretty sure the previous owner was the only owner. All of the routine maintenance was always kept up. I haven't replaced the bulbs.

But I'm thinking about replacing the factory HID setup with an aftermarket kit from HIDExtra.com, as you've suggested. Can you elaborate on the problems with over 5000K? And also, what does the wattage of the ballasts have to do with it? I mean, how does 35W differ from 55W?

 

Nevermind, I'll just stick with 35W ballasts. The only real question I have now is about the problems with going above 5000K. If I choose 8000K for example, would it really have a great negative impact on visibility if the majority of my driving is in town? Lit streets? Very rarely ever back roads. I don't mind sticking with 5000K if it's overall the best bet. I just like the 8000K color, so if it means I can still have good visibility I'll go with that.

 

At first, I was also mezmerized by the numbers and the colors when I went through the process of purchasing new ballasts. (A higher number is better, right? Cool colors are also better, right?)

Some people don't have a problem with the light levels, but after doing my research I decided that enough people do have a problem with the light levels that I wasn't willing to risk it.

Even if you do mostly city driving, sometimes the lights are out on the freeway. Sometimes subdivisions have no lights. Add some rain and a pedestrian or a bicyclist you might not see and it sounds like this is not a very good risk to me.

HID lights in OEM temperatures have a pleasing enough color compared to halogens. I'm not a huge safety nut, but being able to see people who might be walking down the street at night is kind of a basic thing you should want out of your headlights, IMO.

I bought the Morimoto ballasts and 4300K lights from The Retrofit Source. The posts here convinced me that thouh the cheaper ballasts from HIDextra and the other vendor mentioned here were also recommended, they had a higher failure rate than the Morimotos. The last thing I want to have to do is take apart the front bumper to fool around with this again so the extra $50 was worth it to me. (Many here have said that the cheaper bulbs degrade quickly.) $160 was my total cost.

On another note, I am very pleased with the light output from my Morimoto 4300K's. Looks just like the factory color. I also listed my old working ballast on eBay to defray some of the cost. I'll tell you guys whether it sells or not.

 

I'm no safety nut either, but I do want to take everyone's safety into consideration (mine, pedestrians, other drivers, etc.). Which is why I'm considering the 5000K kit. I just wasn't sure what would be best.

I honestly don't have the time to do the work myself. While I'm capable of learning, and I read instructions so I do it right, I'd rather take it to a shop. Someone who actually enjoys doing the work. It's not really something I enjoy too much. Plus I have a family and I work 40hrs. a week. Time is kind of crunched at all times. Haha.

But the shop will charge ~$175 or less to install new assemblies + aftermarket HID kit. Which I can afford.

EDIT:

I guess you can say I was somewhat mesmerized by the numbers, colors, etc. at first. But at the same time, I've never been dead set on looks, so much as I am on everything just working properly and getting it done right. I'd rather have good visibility than look "cool". Haha.

 

Replacing your ballasts is actually a fairly easy job in hindsight. Only two screws hold the bumper fascia in, only 5 10 mm bolts hold in the headlight after that. The ballast is held in by three Phillips screws. Disassembly and reassembly is easy. There are two great videos on YouTube that show you how easy this is.

The only trouble is the learning curve of having to modify the headlight cases to fit the new ballast.

My project was a little more complicated because I refitted the broken fog lights with Lexan fronts, had to paint them. I also had to go junkyard diving and dig out a new splash guard for underneath the car.

At this point I don't want to spend a lot of money on this car since KBB is only about $2600. I want to do what I can myself and spend the minimum amount of money to keep it going until it dies. I bought the car new in 2002 and the idea of potentially throwing down $40,000 for a new TL doesn't really excite me right now. Neither does downgrading back down to a Honda Accord.

I have to say one thing about Honda products: I do love their engineering and simplicity in design. Most things like this are easy to get to and work on yourself with the help of the internet and a little bit of curiousity. But I completely understand where you're coming from if you don't like to work on it yourself.

 

I understand. I'm not entirely closed to doing the work myself, as I do have friends who are knowledgeable with car work. I'm sure they would help me out if it's really fairly simple.

Are you referring to replacing OEM HID with an aftermarket kit? Or just the ballasts?

 

Also, isn't it necessary to disconnect the battery? I've read conflicting ideas on that. Some say it's necessary. Others I've read have said that you simply make sure the headlight swith is off and it won't have any current.

 

Invaluable Videos:

How to replace install change front bumper replacement


Replacement How to replace install fix change hid headlight ballast


Once you get these off, you can install the HID's easily, either OEM or aftermarket. OEM, of course, just plops right in. Aftermarket, I had to drill a 1 1/2 inch hole into the unit and seal up the existing hole (with the Morimoto ballast since the cable is attached to the ballast). I also had to file the hole to make it work since the connector head seems to be larger than the grommet that comes with the unit.

If you buy a ballast that has a detachable cable, I doubt you would have to even modify the headlight unit. You should still seal up the hole after you snake the wire through it.

Then you cut off the existing power connector and splice in the new 9006 connector (I bought it from the vendor, but you can get it at any autoparts store). Someone here said to test polarity with a multimeter, but it was pretty obvious to me ... red is hot, black is negative. Splice it in and it should work.

That's all it takes.

OH - Let the headlight discharge for 24 hours before you work on it. I guess it holds a charge for a time.

I'll post a picture of what I mean in a few days.

 

Great! Thanks a lot for all the info! If I can do it myself and save money, that'd be awesome. I'll work on buying the parts.

 

UPDATE:

As far as self-installation goes, I won't have any trouble. I'll be disconnecting the battery. I'd be more comfortable working that way. Turns out I have a sticker on the side of the glove box door with the factory stereo's reset code. So that's no longer an issue.

Also, I plan to purchase an aftermarket HID by Friday. And I'll be purchasing the headlight assemblies in the following week, if not the next. I'll make a new post with before/after photos when it's done.

 

no need to discon the batt
just make sure there is at least 8 hours between last headlight useage and touching anything..overnight is fine

4300 was stock so new morimoto should match
5000 is fine in all conditions..I loved the 6k for a year, till I tried the 5s and never switched them back~

 

watch out sealing up what is really a HEAT VENT for the housing
the bulbs get way way hot and that expanding air needs an escape

since your new parts have waterproofing that works, its a non issue if you ever get moisture in the housings, let it drain out the bottem as designed (where it dripped onto non waterproof ballast and fried it)

 

Is the big hole where the igniter wire connects to the ballast a heat vent? If so, won't water and crap get into it if I open it up? The high beam grommet was missing on one side and there was a lot of dust in there that had collected.