New EBC rotors and pads,pic.
New EBC rotors and pads,pic.
Just installed my new brakes.Too bad the rotors don't stay black.Also installed ss brake lines (not in pic) and flushed brake fluid.Wow what a difference in braking.This is how the TL should brake stock!!
why dont I see any brake caliper grease on the proper places?
take it back apart and grease the pad backs at contact points and the pad tabs where the movement occurs to push it against the rotor
You can paint the side slots with hi temp BBQ paint, that will stay in them pretty well, and paint the calipers- stops surface crud and looks like brembos
Be sure to follow EBCs website directions on pad bedding
The cooling off drive afterwards is important to the life of the parts- 15 minutes at freeway cruise with no full stop use of brakes while red hot
It takes a few sessions to get the excess resins and such out of the pads- and get a solid pad material transfer layer onto the rotor
then it will really amaze you with stopping abilty!
Check the tire pressures-- you will want them right to use the brakes fully
Good job!
take it back apart and grease the pad backs at contact points and the pad tabs where the movement occurs to push it against the rotor
You can paint the side slots with hi temp BBQ paint, that will stay in them pretty well, and paint the calipers- stops surface crud and looks like brembos
Be sure to follow EBCs website directions on pad bedding
The cooling off drive afterwards is important to the life of the parts- 15 minutes at freeway cruise with no full stop use of brakes while red hot
It takes a few sessions to get the excess resins and such out of the pads- and get a solid pad material transfer layer onto the rotor
then it will really amaze you with stopping abilty!
Check the tire pressures-- you will want them right to use the brakes fully
Good job!
looking at the pic again- did the guy use an air gun to install the bracket bolts and caliper bolts?
If so, there are on too tight- spec is 60 lbs on the bracket and ~ 40 on the caliper bolts
I recently saw a TL the dealer had blasted the bracket bolts on- everything was too tight on the brake job, like the wheels at 132!! spec is 80
Removed a bracket bolt with over 120 ft lbs- probably same 132,, was what the gun put out.
The threads that are supposed to be in the bracket were now sitting on the end of the bolt!! so tight it ripped them right out!! with only one bolt holding the caliper each time you used the brakes it shook badddddddd
You would think the dealer techs do it to book specs- but you would be wrong
If so, there are on too tight- spec is 60 lbs on the bracket and ~ 40 on the caliper bolts
I recently saw a TL the dealer had blasted the bracket bolts on- everything was too tight on the brake job, like the wheels at 132!! spec is 80
Removed a bracket bolt with over 120 ft lbs- probably same 132,, was what the gun put out.
The threads that are supposed to be in the bracket were now sitting on the end of the bolt!! so tight it ripped them right out!! with only one bolt holding the caliper each time you used the brakes it shook badddddddd
You would think the dealer techs do it to book specs- but you would be wrong
1st...
are you sitting there thinking- shiiite I gotta print this thread and take the car back in,,,no caliper grease!!! what torque specs,,,
Did he know the correct bleed order- ?? or is that your feet?
I also note you didnt do the lines first- which allows you to do the 2, 45mph stops with ABS active to verify no air in the controller, then do the rest of the regualr brake job
as the acura repair book says to do if the lines have been disconnected
Now with new brakes you dont want to do the ABS use until they are well bedded in - it will do the pads harm right now to be used that hard
are you sitting there thinking- shiiite I gotta print this thread and take the car back in,,,no caliper grease!!! what torque specs,,,
Did he know the correct bleed order- ?? or is that your feet?
I also note you didnt do the lines first- which allows you to do the 2, 45mph stops with ABS active to verify no air in the controller, then do the rest of the regualr brake job
as the acura repair book says to do if the lines have been disconnected
Now with new brakes you dont want to do the ABS use until they are well bedded in - it will do the pads harm right now to be used that hard
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like tom said, you still have some work to do to get it right. once that is taken care of, and you've given the pads time to season themselves, you will be able to stop with confidence immediately.
oh, make sure you paint your calipers (preferably black paint on new legend rebuilds) - it will make them look as good as the stop.
oh, make sure you paint your calipers (preferably black paint on new legend rebuilds) - it will make them look as good as the stop.
without the needed grease, the pads dont slide properly, lowered performance- pad alignment issues and noise are all possible now
there is a reason a packet of grease comes with many pads today~
Each rotor maker has an idea of which way the slots should go, RB is opposite of many others. Always look for a L or R or a -----> arrow on the rotor to be sure
Doesnt matter if the fluid was flushed- its still not done right!!
I told you before about the NEED to do 2 abs active stops to bleed the controller- then install new brake parts,,which wasnt done...so what are you going to do now? drive it messed up and hurt the new pads?
there is a reason a packet of grease comes with many pads today~
Each rotor maker has an idea of which way the slots should go, RB is opposite of many others. Always look for a L or R or a -----> arrow on the rotor to be sure
Doesnt matter if the fluid was flushed- its still not done right!!
I told you before about the NEED to do 2 abs active stops to bleed the controller- then install new brake parts,,which wasnt done...so what are you going to do now? drive it messed up and hurt the new pads?
without the needed grease, the pads dont slide properly, lowered performance- pad alignment issues and noise are all possible now
there is a reason a packet of grease comes with many pads today~
Each rotor maker has an idea of which way the slots should go, RB is opposite of many others. Always look for a L or R or a -----> arrow on the rotor to be sure
Doesnt matter if the fluid was flushed- its still not done right!!
I told you before about the NEED to do 2 abs active stops to bleed the controller- then install new brake parts,,which wasnt done...so what are you going to do now? drive it messed up and hurt the new pads?
there is a reason a packet of grease comes with many pads today~
Each rotor maker has an idea of which way the slots should go, RB is opposite of many others. Always look for a L or R or a -----> arrow on the rotor to be sure
Doesnt matter if the fluid was flushed- its still not done right!!
I told you before about the NEED to do 2 abs active stops to bleed the controller- then install new brake parts,,which wasnt done...so what are you going to do now? drive it messed up and hurt the new pads?
B A N N E D
iTrader: (1)
Joined: Feb 2001
Posts: 4,657
Likes: 3
From: The grande.. Riverdale NJ.. Hopefully moving to skyline village in Lincoln park NJ..yes dirty jersey
I just bough EBC dimpled and slotted rotors and Green stuff pads I cant wait to slap them on !!
not all pads come with grease- not ebc or RB or hawk to my knowledge
I said many- just not ours <g> it was meant to say that it should be used
Thats why I have a small $6 tub of CRC brand Synthetic brake caliper grease
I take my brakes apart a few times a year to clean and regrease everything--hi temps attract dirt and washing takes away the grease eventually~
Its good for many things besides brake parts, like trailer hitchs, as a thick- stay in place grease on hard to reach things anywhere,,,brake pedal pivot, motorcyle lever pivots,
I said many- just not ours <g> it was meant to say that it should be used
Thats why I have a small $6 tub of CRC brand Synthetic brake caliper grease
I take my brakes apart a few times a year to clean and regrease everything--hi temps attract dirt and washing takes away the grease eventually~
Its good for many things besides brake parts, like trailer hitchs, as a thick- stay in place grease on hard to reach things anywhere,,,brake pedal pivot, motorcyle lever pivots,
any good shop has a can of caliper grease, customer should not have to provide any
Its as much a tool as the carb cleaner and shop rags are
thinking I have seen grease included with cheaper part store pads,, more than expensive ones~
they must want to be sure no returns for noise issue by giving you 10 cents worth of standard grease--on those `lifetime` brakes
Its as much a tool as the carb cleaner and shop rags are
thinking I have seen grease included with cheaper part store pads,, more than expensive ones~
they must want to be sure no returns for noise issue by giving you 10 cents worth of standard grease--on those `lifetime` brakes
B A N N E D
iTrader: (1)
Joined: Feb 2001
Posts: 4,657
Likes: 3
From: The grande.. Riverdale NJ.. Hopefully moving to skyline village in Lincoln park NJ..yes dirty jersey
I went cheap last time from autozone and these rotors wore out in 9 months.
these cars are front heavy and require GOOD brakes up front or they will warp quick!
I've read about noise from the rotors. I'll see how it is...
why dont I see any brake caliper grease on the proper places?
take it back apart and grease the pad backs at contact points and the pad tabs where the movement occurs to push it against the rotor
You can paint the side slots with hi temp BBQ paint, that will stay in them pretty well, and paint the calipers- stops surface crud and looks like brembos
Be sure to follow EBCs website directions on pad bedding
The cooling off drive afterwards is important to the life of the parts- 15 minutes at freeway cruise with no full stop use of brakes while red hot
It takes a few sessions to get the excess resins and such out of the pads- and get a solid pad material transfer layer onto the rotor
then it will really amaze you with stopping abilty!
Check the tire pressures-- you will want them right to use the brakes fully
Good job!
take it back apart and grease the pad backs at contact points and the pad tabs where the movement occurs to push it against the rotor
You can paint the side slots with hi temp BBQ paint, that will stay in them pretty well, and paint the calipers- stops surface crud and looks like brembos
Be sure to follow EBCs website directions on pad bedding
The cooling off drive afterwards is important to the life of the parts- 15 minutes at freeway cruise with no full stop use of brakes while red hot
It takes a few sessions to get the excess resins and such out of the pads- and get a solid pad material transfer layer onto the rotor
then it will really amaze you with stopping abilty!
Check the tire pressures-- you will want them right to use the brakes fully
Good job!
looking at the pic again- did the guy use an air gun to install the bracket bolts and caliper bolts?
If so, there are on too tight- spec is 60 lbs on the bracket and ~ 40 on the caliper bolts
I recently saw a TL the dealer had blasted the bracket bolts on- everything was too tight on the brake job, like the wheels at 132!! spec is 80
Removed a bracket bolt with over 120 ft lbs- probably same 132,, was what the gun put out.
The threads that are supposed to be in the bracket were now sitting on the end of the bolt!! so tight it ripped them right out!! with only one bolt holding the caliper each time you used the brakes it shook badddddddd
You would think the dealer techs do it to book specs- but you would be wrong
If so, there are on too tight- spec is 60 lbs on the bracket and ~ 40 on the caliper bolts
I recently saw a TL the dealer had blasted the bracket bolts on- everything was too tight on the brake job, like the wheels at 132!! spec is 80
Removed a bracket bolt with over 120 ft lbs- probably same 132,, was what the gun put out.
The threads that are supposed to be in the bracket were now sitting on the end of the bolt!! so tight it ripped them right out!! with only one bolt holding the caliper each time you used the brakes it shook badddddddd
You would think the dealer techs do it to book specs- but you would be wrong
1st...
are you sitting there thinking- shiiite I gotta print this thread and take the car back in,,,no caliper grease!!! what torque specs,,,
Did he know the correct bleed order- ?? or is that your feet?
I also note you didnt do the lines first- which allows you to do the 2, 45mph stops with ABS active to verify no air in the controller, then do the rest of the regualr brake job
as the acura repair book says to do if the lines have been disconnected
Now with new brakes you dont want to do the ABS use until they are well bedded in - it will do the pads harm right now to be used that hard
are you sitting there thinking- shiiite I gotta print this thread and take the car back in,,,no caliper grease!!! what torque specs,,,
Did he know the correct bleed order- ?? or is that your feet?
I also note you didnt do the lines first- which allows you to do the 2, 45mph stops with ABS active to verify no air in the controller, then do the rest of the regualr brake job
as the acura repair book says to do if the lines have been disconnected
Now with new brakes you dont want to do the ABS use until they are well bedded in - it will do the pads harm right now to be used that hard
without the needed grease, the pads dont slide properly, lowered performance- pad alignment issues and noise are all possible now
there is a reason a packet of grease comes with many pads today~
Each rotor maker has an idea of which way the slots should go, RB is opposite of many others. Always look for a L or R or a -----> arrow on the rotor to be sure
Doesnt matter if the fluid was flushed- its still not done right!!
I told you before about the NEED to do 2 abs active stops to bleed the controller- then install new brake parts,,which wasnt done...so what are you going to do now? drive it messed up and hurt the new pads?
there is a reason a packet of grease comes with many pads today~
Each rotor maker has an idea of which way the slots should go, RB is opposite of many others. Always look for a L or R or a -----> arrow on the rotor to be sure
Doesnt matter if the fluid was flushed- its still not done right!!
I told you before about the NEED to do 2 abs active stops to bleed the controller- then install new brake parts,,which wasnt done...so what are you going to do now? drive it messed up and hurt the new pads?
not all pads come with grease- not ebc or RB or hawk to my knowledge
I said many- just not ours <g> it was meant to say that it should be used
Thats why I have a small $6 tub of CRC brand Synthetic brake caliper grease
I take my brakes apart a few times a year to clean and regrease everything--hi temps attract dirt and washing takes away the grease eventually~
Its good for many things besides brake parts, like trailer hitchs, as a thick- stay in place grease on hard to reach things anywhere,,,brake pedal pivot, motorcyle lever pivots,
I said many- just not ours <g> it was meant to say that it should be used
Thats why I have a small $6 tub of CRC brand Synthetic brake caliper grease
I take my brakes apart a few times a year to clean and regrease everything--hi temps attract dirt and washing takes away the grease eventually~
Its good for many things besides brake parts, like trailer hitchs, as a thick- stay in place grease on hard to reach things anywhere,,,brake pedal pivot, motorcyle lever pivots,
any good shop has a can of caliper grease, customer should not have to provide any
Its as much a tool as the carb cleaner and shop rags are
thinking I have seen grease included with cheaper part store pads,, more than expensive ones~
they must want to be sure no returns for noise issue by giving you 10 cents worth of standard grease--on those `lifetime` brakes
Its as much a tool as the carb cleaner and shop rags are
thinking I have seen grease included with cheaper part store pads,, more than expensive ones~
they must want to be sure no returns for noise issue by giving you 10 cents worth of standard grease--on those `lifetime` brakes
cant go wrong with ebc, had them for a while now and the rotors are almost done, plan on getting another set of green stuff and the dimpled/slot. they are noisy tho with the windows down and driving beside curbs n such
I have no problem with EBC parts- have their clutch and brakes on my bike
and their website is where the info on how many lines in the rotors before too much noise, on the bike its 3 and they used to make them as 5 slot- now its changed
TLin401- thanks for the thought,, but they even dont PAY the Mods!
just add to the workload of answering PMs with a lager mailbox limit
My pay is when someone benefits from my shared experience~ and comes back to report how a diy went. That makes my time worth it
While no longer active in the industry- the knowledge is still there.
I am writing a book- but its not on car repair,,its on self inner care
The wife says I need to write: 10 things you need to know about dealer service
and their website is where the info on how many lines in the rotors before too much noise, on the bike its 3 and they used to make them as 5 slot- now its changed
TLin401- thanks for the thought,, but they even dont PAY the Mods!
just add to the workload of answering PMs with a lager mailbox limit
My pay is when someone benefits from my shared experience~ and comes back to report how a diy went. That makes my time worth it
While no longer active in the industry- the knowledge is still there.
I am writing a book- but its not on car repair,,its on self inner care
The wife says I need to write: 10 things you need to know about dealer service
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