My 00 needs new rear calipers,rotors pads and back plates. What other calipers would fit a 00 TL other than the one sit comes with?

 

the same caliper fits many many years of honda products
no discount getting a different one,,and it needs to be the correct one with our type park brake actuator

example rl uses similar looking but different caliper

be aware they are 75- 100 bucks each,,rebuilt,,easy to rebuild in most cases for 20 per

backing plate--dealer or junkyard,,auto recyclers is the new term for those

kragen has decent rear rotors or napa--those are reasonably cheap

canuks try Canadian Tires iirc that is your big parts chain?

 

I used this site www.JCWHITNEY.COM they ship to your door in MTL, all duties and taxes included. I got an AMAZING set of slotted EBC rotors and Pads all around and 2 new front calipers for about 650.

If you are looking to go local you can go to any parts store like Plaza in Laval, they sold me some REALLY nice Brembo blank rotors for 75$ each with a nice set of Wagner pads for 55$. They also carry OEM replacement calipers.

 

jcw is well known and trusted,,I get the monthly flyer for bikes and cars from them

buy 1 thing and they never leave you alone after that~

Im wondering why you need these parts? weird accident?--theft of rear end of car?
the backing plate is the odd thing to need

 

One caliper is seized and rotors are worn unevenly.Backing plates are all rusted
and falling apart.

 

did you ever change/flush the brake fluid in the cars lifetime?
especially Canadians with your bad winters

Everyone really needs to do that now if not already done this year,
and keep on it once a year--no kidding
older cars need more maitenance~

wiki hygroscopic for what happens to fluid and the end result

thats a common cause of rear caliper failure,,old moisture laden fluid eats the rubber oring on caliper piston and the cylinder bore

it can happen on well maintained cars too, as evidenced by our megamod having a rear caliper stick partially on during a few hour drive home...smoked the ebc pads!,,,melted the paint off them! with only 250kmiles,,what a pos part

auto recycler for backing plates,,or dealer as last resort

 

seems a little excessive, water doesn't effect the o-rings at all to start with, the odds of water gettting in a sealed system are low, put if it does then it well corroid the caliber over time. Typically the issue is someone doesn't clean and lube the self adjusters and that causes the piston to cock, wearing the pads unevenly, creates a larger gap on one side of the piston compared to the otherside and then water can get into the system.

now if your just a wanta be racer getting your brakes screaming hot and then run through puddles of water your asking for trouble. But it's pretty hard to hydroscopicly interduce water into a system that is closed and sealed, unless the seals are compromized from excessive heat and distortion.

 

sorry= you are wrong

hydraulic fluid sucks moisture right from the air
past the oring on the master cap--which is not a seal for this purpose
Ck your cap-its not really tight when all the way on

water vapor gets in, and thru compression action it gets moved thru the fluid and to the calipers,, where it turns to rust
rust particle cuts the oring and caliper fails is the common scenario
BUT there are other reasons a caliper can sieze..even partially ON!

Note that MANY aftermarket pads are the wrong units for a TL--they have an extra raised tab on the inner pad--top center
that tab hits the piston first and cocks the pad--causes severe wear at an angle on the pad and less than 50 percent ability to the rear brakes

visual ck- look at inner rear rotor --if its half rusty and half shiny across its width? you have bad pads!!

our park brake adjuster? is that what you mean lube? find me someone that does that regularly!!
thats not the cause either in most cases
extreme weather areas may vary

go to wikipedia and look up hygroscopic

 

oh boy.....

 

everyone knows red type means sarcasm,,right?,,and is often used as a sign of respect, or kidding, call a longtime ziner a noob in red...

all I am saying is hygroscopic action is very real
(not to be confused with hydroscopic which is the abilty to see underwater)

brake fluid is the fluid we have to change out more often as a result--
a $10 in parts 1.some qt flush every year,,easy diy,
seems a reasonable thing to do to keep the stopping system of the car in top shape
To me-brakes are realllll important

It also occurs in engine oil and ps fluid, but those circulate and run at enough temp
to dry the moisture out
brake fluid moves a fraction of an inch in the line to exert more pressure on the fluid sitting in the caliper = pushes caliper piston out, pad against rotor etc
when the pedal is depressed, and then straight back,
There is no circulation thru all the lines in normal operation

If you need proof that moisture is drawn into various systems when the car is parked,,,watch any car ahead of you thats been running less than 5-10 minutes-
those drops of water out the tailpipes,,your car does that too~

thats one reason acura says if your daily drive is less than 10 minutes or lots of short trips like that each day,,once a month take it on the freeway for 45 minutes--thats how much heat and time it takes to fully dry the fluids and exhaust system
its in the owner book

 

Yes!!! Last year I changed all rotors,pads,brake lines and fluid.

 

Canada must be hell on parts!!

was this the car with the rotted brake line in the solid section?

 

no!