uleiro

I was on my way home as soon as i made a right on my block my driver side wheel popped off, destroyed my fender. I had to tow my car one block lol. i checked it out immediately i found my axle ripped off from the cv boot. the cause of all this was my lower ball joint ripped in half. I havent remove the lower ball joint yet. i heard you need heat in order to remove it becuase its in there tight. any ideas?

pickler

no clue but when i had my 2g tl for service last time they told me something like this might happen and i to replace the ball joints which i did.

thelastaspec

At what mileage should one conciser replacing these parts?
What mileage were you at OP when this happened?

pickler

i replaced mine after 80,000km or 50,000mi and 7 years. i dont think its related to mileage, just how hard the car is driven and the climate and rust etc.

uleiro

im riding low with tein basics they are about 4 years old, and my car has around 100k ive replaced just about everything in that area except those lower ball joints.

thelastaspec

shit dude, sucks


Does anyone know if i will eventually need to do something with my tien SS' - im at 50k miles

01tl4tl

cv joints take extra stress on lowered cars

if you have full coverage insurance it should handle the fender and broken parts

pickler

car that goes through this much stress won't ride like new again. why would you risk waiting until it blow? what if insurance wont cover? or wheel comes out on the highway @75mph and you hit a cement truck? just have ur dealer check it and they'll replace them if they have play. its about 400$ here in canada:

uleiro

i will be replacing the parts on my own. i need a new lower ball joint and a axle boot or i might just replace the whole axle. its pretty much straight forward if you have the tool and time. the ball joint is pressed in so i might be taking the whole knuckle off, take it to a near shop where they can remove the broken ball joint and press in the new ball joint.

uleiro

if i had cash to throw like that i would take it straight to an acura dealer.

V_Langs_3.2TL

this has happened to me twice, same LCA driver side.

both times have thankfully been in parking lot/neighborhood but scary nonetheless

the first time it happened was after owning the car 7 years, it has just rusted through because of the harsh winters.

the second time was just this january i had literally just gotten off the highway. ended up suing the dealership for not doing it properly.

got the money, ended up doing it myself, doing it right. but never did get around to fixing the damn fender =(

I weep every day i look at it, it's not noticeable to non-acura dudes, but I notice it every single day

thelastaspec

so different story where i live with no salt/snow even though little lowered, drive hills with steep turns, and 50k miles?

randomthought

You can just beat the lower end out. Try putting the castle nut back on to the threaded part and hit the castle nut, NOT THE BOLT ITSELF, with a hammer. As for the top part, that is probably gonna need a press to bring out. You can always try heating the outer area with a torch before trying to beat the rest of the ball joint out.

Then there is the trusty old air chisel. Fun times. Fun times...

xtremex626

iTrader: (1)

whoa whoa whoa.. be careful if you're gonna hit the castle nut or the stud.. i hit the stud and accidentally dented the threads on the bottom.. so that meant a new control arm..

just go to your local autozone and rent the tool (it looks like a fork with 2 prongs).. it's like $14 to rent.. use it and return.. you get your money back.. walah..

uleiro

Just use one of these no banging or torch.

fsttyms1

this is part of the reason to have a yearly alignment whether you think you need one or not so they can inspect these parts for play. If you hear any clunking they are a part to be inspected or looked at.

fsttyms1

This is a great way to seperate the lower ones. I have used this method on most makes of cars and trucks right down to fords.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ISY8bGof3bQ

uleiro

That's pretty smart and straight forward. But in my case I have a broken ball joint shown above. Looking at the picture do you think the ball joint remover tool will do the job?

acutee

You can get that tool at sears for 20 bucks.

mastini

iTrader: (6)

And you haven't heard any clicks or noise?
You have to check your balljoints every time to changing your oil.
They can't brake like that without hitting something very bad or they were gone long time ago.

JterrorC

iTrader: (1)

autozone.... the diy helpers... u can leave a deposit...borrow it..and get your deposit back when u return the piece...or keep the piece...and lose the deposit....w.e works..

pickler

well if something happens i can take it to acura and hold them responsible

jacksonstl03

Yo, dats crazy! I juss brought my ack to the shop 2day for an oil change & tranny flush. Rep told me i need a cv boot. lol

swalch@stanford.edu

This shows some of the details.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zd5IcN3yjsg

Special Ed

same happend to me about a month ago... didnt hear any clicks then BANG shit snapped at like 55mph.. thank god i was already slowing down when it happened... cost me about $350 to fix.. now i have a new click on the same wheel when i hit little bumps... gotta get that checked asap

elproducto

I just got the 03 TL checked out at a suspension shop and was told to replace both lower front ball joints. What are the good brands to buy? MOOG is a little to expensive $60 for the pair. I saw a great deal with 20% at advanced for 2 TRW lower ball joints for $45.77 with limited lifetime warranty. Also saw the lower priced brands like Mevotech, and Raybestos all under about $14 a piece. I am leaning more to the TRW but does anyone in the know which would be the safest bet. It also seem that some of these brand are all the same as some have similar part numbers. Good luck to OP.

elproducto

I went with the Moog got a good deal at 22.63 a piece with free shipping. Found out that manufactures use the same part number sometimes to standardize but does not necessarily mean they are the same.

phee

iTrader: (5)

post the part numbers up and where u got that deal!

NSXNEXT

iTrader: (2)

Had both axles and lower ball joints replaced last week. 176,000 miles on the car...it was time.

elproducto

Yo Phee where you been at meng. I might need your services to put a tranny in a 97 Accord. PM me if you still working on cars in NYC. I got the part from autopartstomorrow. I bought the part yesterday and it is in my hand today. You can use promo code 5472052 to get an additional 5% off. If you want free shipping you must have $50 total in your cart. I just bought in-cabin filter as a filler. Part number is K9643 it states TRW in description but don't worry they sent me a MOOG part. I also called to ensure it was MOOG.

iiNFAM0uS RAJA G

no dont hit the bolt or anything with a hammer because my boy got his axel changed and his ball joints on a A4 and the mechanic heated em and it wouldnt come out and then he hit it with a hammer and relaced everything and about a month later he found out cuz of the hammer his rack and pinion got damaged and he has to replace it

closetprisoner

DAYAM...!!

You'll need a pitman puller for the broken joint section. Got me thinking for new joint, I got 220k on my car, don't think it ever been change.

uleiro

Nah i hit it real good with a hammer broken ball joint came right off. The top half of the ball joint i got an even bigger hammer and after a couple of bangs it came off.

uleiro

I install lower ball joints, new rotors and brakes, left side axle broke off so i replaced both axles. im still hearing a clucking noise when i turn the wheel. now that the lower ball joints have been replaced what else can it be?

hANDYcaptd

iTrader: (5)

Is there any play in the suspension? Sounds like a tie rod end or strut mounts.