I just spoke to the guy at LEVEL 10. He is stating no problem on getting a second dropped off of my 0-60 times with his torque conv.
Have any of you installed the LEVEL 10 and seen that big of a difference?
He said it should take about 7 days to make the changes to my torque conv.
But that really sucks that means I will be without my car for about 10 days taking into consideration the shipping back and forth.
Also he said they are just about finished with a new electronic kit that should sell for about $700-800 that you can electronically change the shift pattern from 2 steps above OEM to 4 steps above to full on race!!!!!!!!!
He said that can knock another .25-.50 sec off of our 0-60 times because it shifts much faster than the stock settings.

Let me know. Thanks

 

You might seriously consider just buying another TC and shipping it to them.

I kept debating....

Audio system upgrade OR torque converter/performance parts

Audio won. Coming to a quiet street near you....

 

From what I hear you can buy the TCs already built through Level 10.

Spiro

 

The guy I talked to Phil, he didn't think they had any for the Acura.

 

I called Acura a new TC would run $698

 

You sure about that. I think it's much cheaper than that.

Hey SSMAN, can you confirm?

 

How do you know if your torque converter is damaged?

Rosh

 

what do they do to make the TQ better... If we are getting more preformance from this, there has to be a downside? are we going to get killed in milage, will it affect highway travel??? anyone have a level 10? worth it? what is the cost???

 

A Torque Converter is fluid-filled case that contains a set of turbines - there is an input turbine that is driven by the engine, an output turbine that connected to the transmission's input shaft, and a stator turbine between them that directs and controls the flow of the fluid.
At a certain input RPM, the torque converter will reach its maximum fluid flow. Below this input RPM, there is poor hydraulic "coupling" between the input turbine and the output turbine - there is a lot of "slippage". Above this input RPM there is a hydraulic "lockup" - there is almost no slippage between the input turbine and the output turbine. This certain input RPM is called the "stall speed" of the converter. This property of a torque converter allows an engine to rev-up to a speed where it begins to make significant power (commonly referred to as "torque multiplication") before being put under a heavy load. The stall speed of a torque converter needs to be carefully matched to the torque curve of the engine it will be used with. A high-performance or race engine, which makes power only at high RPM, needs a torque converter that has a very high stall speed.

You cannot check the stall speed of a torque converter by pulling the transmission into gear, holding a vehicle with the brakes and adding power -- the drive-wheels will begin to spin long before you reach full-power. The proper way to check the stall speed is to make a standing-start, abrupt, foot-to-the-floor acceleration run and note the RPM shown on the tach at the instant the vehicle begins to move. This test actually measures "flash stall", but this is usually very close to the true stall speed of the converter. Also, this test is only valid if the tires do not begin to spin and if the engine can develop sufficient torque to actually reach the rated stall speed. If the tires spin, the apparent stall speed will be high. If the engine does not develop sufficient torque for the converter, the apparent stall speed will be low.

Some torque converters have an internal, hydraulically operated "lockup clutch" in them. At some preset point, the transmission will cause this converter lockup clutch to engage in order to mechanically lock the input turbine and the output turbine together. This improves the vehicles efficiency a bit because the slight slippage between the input turbine and the output turbine is eliminated. As a side benefit, some "engine braking" is also available when you take your foot off the accelerator.

The internal parts of the turbines are manufactured from formed sheet metal vanes and machined rings. In most "stock" quality torque converters, the assembly of these parts is primarily accomplished by interlocking mechanical means. In high quality, heavy-duty and high performance torque converters, the turbine assemblies are completely welded or furnace brazed together to provide for a stronger and more robust unit.

As with the rest of the transmission, excessive heat and contamination is what will kill a torque converter. Since the fluid in the torque converter is ATF supplied by the transmission, wear particles and/or bits and pieces of a blown-up transmission will end up in the converter, thereby destroying it. Changing the ATF at regular intervals and installing an external transmission cooler will lead to maximum torque converter life. If an in-radiator transmission cooler fails, ATF contamination with engine coolant will destroy a lockup torque converter.

 

NSXNEXT, you the man, you just saved me a whole lotta typing to explain...But generally, to put it in english, you know when you put your car in drive from park? The slight push you feel from the transmission engaging into gear? That's the work of the TQ..For the record, the '67 Mustang we restored has a high stall TQ(2500RPM), meaning the car will just roll at 10 mph until u hit 2500RPM, from there, it zoooooooooooooom goes.got it?
Ed

 

NSXNEXT DAYAAAMMM!!! Nice explanation!!! Thanks a lot. I have been having problems with my transmission ever since my car overheated. Its not in my head because when we went to michigan, and I put it in drive, the transmission went BOOM! It happens once in a while now. Also, its shifts hard and sometimes doesn't upshift or downshift.

Thanks again,
Roshan

 

Great Job!

The only thing I would like to elaborate on is the race/street car statement, specifically the "only" statement.

While some race car applications are because the engine has been designed to operate at higher RPMs, say 3500-4500 and therefor benefit from a higher stall speed. There are two other key reasons for this in race and or street cars.

In the case of my SS I had a 3000RPM stall converter in it. It needed to have a higher idle speed to keep from stalling out due to the high degree of cam lope I had.

The other thing that I used it for was to improve my launch at the drag strip.
It gave me greater control while power braking. This also has an effect similar to dropping a clutch at 3000RPM. It helped me negate that "manual" advantage at the stip while giving me more control. It all resulted in a more consistent performaning car at the track.

Again, great job.

RUF

 

One other thing to remember is that you can have a high stall converter with lock up capabilities. This will allow a good launch and then still lock up for highway use and good mileage. I am not sure if Level 10 offers that combo for the TL. It is available for the "usual" American street rods.

Keep in mind a high stall converter also makes more heat and, as was mentioned, heat kills.

 

The guy at Level 10 said he would recommend a stall speed for my CL Type S at 3000 RPM. I said I thought that was really high, but he said they have had a lot of success with that RPM. So it sounds like a tranny cooler would be next????????/

 

I believe it is highly recommended.

Does that torque converter still have a lock up capability?

 

Yes, you just send them YOUR TC. They just replace the inside guts and put better parts in there and change the stall speed. So everything else remains the same. He also said that our tranny is really good, should hold up well to any future mods i.e. supercharger!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

 

I dont know how good our trannys will be for the SC. I will tell you why..Rick Case Acura who has been doing the 3.5L upgrades for our cars have been experimenting with a turbo kit. On all 4 cars they tried the turbo kit on the trannys blew. I think Level 10 is just saying that our trannys are strong so we can buy the TC.

Spiro

 

That sucks. I am selling my car and buying another Lexus.

 

Anyone hear anything about trannies from SP

 

another thing us accord boys are considering is UPRD. their tranny upgrade kit costs roughly $2000 which is comparable to the upgrade provided by L10. I think there is a bit of east/west coast rivalry on who can make the best upgrade. UPRD uses parts from a company in Texas... can't remember the name of it.. but supposedly rock solid. both have great reputations.

best thing to do is check out www.superhonda.org and check out their forums (Accord V6). they have plenty of info on the transmission upgrade, the CTech SC, etc. etc.

p.s., L10 makes a TC specific for Honda/Acura applications, I dont there is any need to send your old one, just purchase one i think its $498 and have a local shop install it. The best bet would be to ship your entire tranny there (or drive there if you are close) and let the pro's do it. they also have various other internal parts to strengthen the tranny.

www.levelten.com


pps.. doh, i typed all this stuff for nothing. its all here:

http://www.superhonda.org/board/show...threadid=49804


http://www.superhonda.org/board/show...threadid=25082