Inner tie rod and lower ball joint question
#1
Inner tie rod and lower ball joint question
Hey guys! Forgive me for making all these suspension threads lately, I just want to make sure I'm doing all this right the first time! I'm just making a plan for everything and going to execute hopefully before New Years
My two questions are
1. Do I need to grease the inner tie rod?? All the videos I've watched never show or say anything about greasing inner tie rod. I'm getting all my parts from 1aauto.com since I've seen good results from them
2. Is there anything that needs to come off when doing the ball joints that would block it like I know cv axle comes out but I don't seem to have a snap ring on mine when I looked also the these cars have some sort of metal lip that sticks out where CVaxles are that would block the LBJ They are factory original ones btw
Just trying to make a gameplan, Thanks in advance! I hope this thread helps any other amateurs to these cars with same questions
My two questions are
1. Do I need to grease the inner tie rod?? All the videos I've watched never show or say anything about greasing inner tie rod. I'm getting all my parts from 1aauto.com since I've seen good results from them
2. Is there anything that needs to come off when doing the ball joints that would block it like I know cv axle comes out but I don't seem to have a snap ring on mine when I looked also the these cars have some sort of metal lip that sticks out where CVaxles are that would block the LBJ They are factory original ones btw
Just trying to make a gameplan, Thanks in advance! I hope this thread helps any other amateurs to these cars with same questions
#2
Racer
You'll be better off taking the whole knuckle assembly off the car and working with it on a bench or using a press to get the old ball joints out and the new ones in. It's really not a lot of work to get it out and it will make your life a lot easier. There is no need to pull the axle from the transmission with this method.
#3
Instructor
Raybestos Professional Grade is the way to go!
Get the greaseless one like the one I'm linking below. They last as long the OEM ones which are greaseless as well. You'll save yourself a lot of headaches.
I highly recommend Raybestos Professional Grade over all the others.
You can easily get 100K miles out of them.
Same thing for the Ball Joint, you can rent the press at Autozone if you don't want to buy one.
I highly recommend Raybestos Professional Grade over all the others.
You can easily get 100K miles out of them.
Same thing for the Ball Joint, you can rent the press at Autozone if you don't want to buy one.
#4
Instructor
Just to clarify by "Greaseless" I meant the ones without the grease zerks, they are greased but sealed without zerks.
I had bought some Moog tie rod ends and ball joints with the zerks and they failed really quick.
Just some insight from my experiences. Hope this helps.
I had bought some Moog tie rod ends and ball joints with the zerks and they failed really quick.
Just some insight from my experiences. Hope this helps.
#6
Instructor
I'm glad yours are holding up. I'm just sharing my experience with them.
#7
Mike- good to know though for sure for future. I do see that have two different types typically. One is their 'cheaper' line. Maybe those are not so great? I don't even recall which ones I bought..
Merry Xmas
Merry Xmas
![Smile](https://acurazine.com/forums/images/smilies/smile.gif)
Trending Topics
#8
The ones that I bought are greaseless from 1aauto. After I get everything installed and get a few thousand miles on them I will write up a review since there isn't one. But I've heard the ability to add grease can be good and bad. Bad being if valve fails then it will have less life and but the greaseless ones I haven't heard much complaints on them.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
polish_pat
3G TL Problems & Fixes
1
11-28-2015 02:25 PM