I think I may have found the root of my humming noise problem/loss of power (which as of lately I've been attributing to the Seafoam application & resultant vacuum leak).

If I use the info found in these two threads:
Hum Noise

Busted air filter box screws

...it seems if the air filter box isn't tight, I may get the humming noise. Last night when I did Seafoam v2, I thought I would take a look at the air filter to see how bad it was. Except the screws were pretty rusty & seized. Two of them were not even holding the box together, but just sitting in the housing.

I did go to Jiffy Lube a couple days before I noticed the hum/loss of power and they never mentioned how bad my air filter was....I guess I now know why: not because it was good, but because they couldn't get the top off!

For the record, when I rev the engine, I hear a whooshing sound right before it goes back to an idle (e.g., I get a nice rev but right at the end of it, there's a whoosh)....hopefully it's because of a non-tight air box. We'll see once I get the screws out & replace them.

 

Its probably that. Its not the seafoam that caused it.

 

Well yeah I don't think the Seafoam caused it directly, but maybe due to incorrect application of it or "user error" I might've f'ed up something while doing it. But we'll see.

 

No. there is nothing to F up. Our cars HUM with out the intake resonators, or a leak somewhere in between the filter and TB. With the car running PUSH tightly on the cover and see if it goes away. ALSO look to see that the small resonator that's between the filter and the TB on the bottom of the intake tube is still on, along with the breather tubes.

 

go back to jiffy lube and tell them that they messed up your air filter box. tell them u wanted teh see the filter bc they told u it was dirty and when u moved the box around it felt and looked loose and their was also stripped screws.

 

I actually just took a look at mine the other day and I have some stripper screws as well. Can you guys tell me if it's possible to just replace the screws or do I need a whole new cover?

 

the nut for the screw is on the bottom portion of the airbox and its pressed in the plastic. i dought that u can just add another nut, my guess is that the nut in the plastic just keeps spinning.

 

I haven't gotten a chance to take a look at the nut on the bottom but the screw head is what's stripped. It was jammed in there good last time I replaced my air filter so, I needed to use a drill to get it out. But because it was stuck in there so well I stripped the screw head. I should still be able to get it out but, I wonder if I can just replace the thing or I need a whole new airbox.

 

damn looks like a lot of ppl are having problems with the air filter screws. i thought i was the only one but i guess acura gave us faulty screws.

 

Heh and here I was thinking I was the only one as well. It took me a good 20 mins to get them out when I replaced my air filter. Was trying so hard not to strip it just to end up stripping it anyways.

 

yea u could just replace the screw then.

 

OP: you really shouldn't go to jiffy lube. those clowns will ruin your car.

 

Would it be just any screw that fits? or would I be able to pick some up at the dealer or something?

 

go to an auto parts store and match the length and thread of the original both to another bolt.

 

The hum sound is normal. I have removed my resonator including the airbox that sits in the hood under the filter and just flipped the filter and bolted it in... BAM DIY SRI! And if the car is cold, I usually get a whooshing sound too. Sounds like a bad BOV too me since the whoosh is too long of a time period. lol

 

Rajca, while I would love to bitch at them, it's not necessary & won't be effective. I'd rather just grab some new screws and call it a day vs. going out of my way to make them feel responsible.

desired_speeds, ultimately I plan on doing my own oil changes (just got the car 2 months ago) but I first have to figure out how & then buy the necessary tools.

I used a hex set to get the screws off though. I tightened three of 'em and the fourth, that screw was cut in half or something when I pulled it out. So I didn't test whether or not 3 tight screws fixed the problem. Regardless, all screws were rusty as heck and should probably just replace them all.

illmat1k, what's a BOV and is it something that's [easily] fixable?

I'll try to take a recording of the sound. It only happens at high revs.

 

There are No special tools required for changing the oil 17mm wrench is all you need.

Fix teh screws. If the cover isnt sitting right you could be sucking in things that are harmful to the motor.

A BOV isnt something you can put on your car. Its for turbos.

And if the hum is only at high RPM i dont think its the airbox. If it was it would do it at idle not high rpm.

 

Oops I meant the whoosh is only at high revs. The hum is prevalent @ idle. And the oil...I really meant tools like a jack/jack stands.

 

You can change the oil without lifting the car but a jack and stands does make it easier.

 

I had the same problem with my car after it came back from timing belt replacement. Only at idle, and when I pushed the top of the airbox down hard it quit. The problem with mine however is the plastic tabs are broken on the engine side of the filter cover. Its quite annoying because before my engine was super quiet.

oh-If youre doing oil changes @ home I recommend a quick drain from fumotousa .com

Its a ball valve style drain that makes oil changes a snap. The TL has an aluminum oil pan and the threads can easily be stripped. The quick drain replaces the bolt.

 

all they oil changes that ive done ive never stripped an oil pan or the oil pan bolt. your not supposed to crank on the wrench or ratchet. just snug it down by hand.

 

Any idea what the torque spec is for oil plug?

 

i just do mine hand tight. id say about 15fl lbs or so.

 

Nor have I. I like the quick drain due to the fact you can drain the oil without having to take a bolt out-minimizing the chance of hot oil burn and spilling.

 

Oh, wow. I thought something was just wrong with my car. I removed the resonator and I get the hum as well. So it's definitely something not being sealed correctly? I guess I'll double check everything.

 

if u take out the resonator you will get the hummmmm. nothing wrong with the car.

 

I just replaced my filters and started hearing a hum. I thought it was just a bad ground, I could hear it in the cabin on the front passenger side. Seems odd that thats where the noise is heard inside.

 

Can a broken air filter housing bolt cause the check engine light to come on? One of the bolt head that closes the air filter housing broke off over a year ago. Actually, an idiot from Oil Change Express did this to my car when I had my oil change done there the last time (have been doing my own oil changes since then). I have a P1457 Code that came on two month's ago and already tried replacing the shut valve and the evap canister. However, the code just came back on yesterday after a week of replacing the shut valve and canister so I thought I'd ask before troubleshooting this further.

 

Nope the air filter housing leaking cannot throw a code.. Not even a MAF Sensor code since we don´t have one.

 

29 lbf-ft