pickler

according to dynolicious i put about ~160 horses to the wheels, which is pretty disappointing to me, although the vehicle is bone stock. however i found this graph for 1999 TL-P allegedly stock, but numbers seem to be a bit too high?

01tl4tl

thats probably at the crank not the wheels- you lose 20 percent in numbers right there
Plus a ~fresh~ motor vs 150kms on yours?
little things like lightweight engine oil will give improved numbers `for testing`
look what they do to come up with CAFE fuel numbers!!

perfect valve adjustment on yours?
brand new spark plugs and seafoam the gas and intake methods, plus engine oil method before the oil change = all improve combustion = better torque or allow freer operation = less drag = more power available to measure

hp reading is all a head game, if you want a faster TL- install a lightweight crank pulley
By shedding 8 of 10 pounds off the end of the crankshaft the engine revs much quiker-getting you to vtec and the real power that much faster

Caution -heavy foot = loss of fuel economy..you play you pay

Karanx7

iTrader: (2)

Something is off with your car. 160hp to the wheels is too low. Then again, the dynolicious app isn't the best way to test your car. I used that same app when my car was stock + CAI, and I was getting ~180whp. I'm also a TL-P.

Maybe try some SeaFoam in Oil and Gas. Get your valves adjusted too, though I have yet to do mine.

fsttyms1

Because its a phone app and not directly measuring the output at the wheels.

fsttyms1

If that were a crank dyno there wouldnt be 20% loss and the power would be closer to the stock 225 rating.

Rockstar21

iTrader: (1)

you should be in the 190 range with a healthy motor...

160 is low.

Karanx7

iTrader: (2)

Correct, but it should be noted that the phone app is relatively accurate and precise when used correctly. The only problematic variable I imagine would be the weight of the car. Using the weight given on the driver's side door jamb plus the driver's weight should give a rough estimate.
190 is pretty high for a 10 year old car, but I agree that 160 is too low.



The app is really meant to measure your 0-60, and other times. How fast was your 0-60? It can be tough to find a empty road long enough for the full test.

01tl4tl

so I make numbers up out of thin air~ the theory is correct~
those are also `corrected numbers` which means it wasnt 59 degrees and sea level- the testing standard
so everything must be a calculation

RUF87

Just think of the poor TypeS guys that have a 260hp car and at the dynos only put down 196-201 or more than 20% lost through the drive train . . FWD automatics are the worst.

Ruf

pickler

ok i think i should give more info about my vehicle. my car is bone stock. it has 90,000km or 60k miles on it. i recently did a service including changed tranny fluid, seafoam, fuel injector cleaning, new tires, new filter and had the whole car inspected (exhausts, catalystic conv, balljoints, mounts etc). The dynolicous app i use is relatively accurate with my other vehicles reporting 211hp for my rdx and 265hp for my 135i. for the TL i get 158 to 160 horses consistently. 0-60 was around 7.5 with gate shifting 8 just left in D with TC on.

Karanx7

iTrader: (2)

If you're 0-60 is 7.5 seconds, then your fine. You're not putting in the correct weight of the car. I just put in the weight of the car (without my weight) and I got ~184whp for ~7.5 seconds.

Your telling the app that your car's weight is lighter than it really is.

Karanx7

iTrader: (2)

WOW, that is uncanny how similar our stock times are... App is really precise.
I ran this test when my car was bone stock at ~160k miles.

pickler

I KNOW!!! holy crap i thought for a second you were being sarcastic and reposting my image

however i do put in the correct weight. 3635lbs.

fsttyms1

Those times are kinda slow for a TL-P Best time i got with mine was a high 14 with nothing more than comptech axle backs and a K&N drop in. That was with near 180k miles on the odo.

pickler

ok so i ran out tonight and did a 1/4 mile test. the humidity was unusally high tonight 80% so that might hurt a bit. but it was a definite improvement with gateshifting to 6500 rpm:






note that with gateshifting 2nd gear falls into vtec so its smoother. you can also tell by bigger shiftpoint spikes that its gateshifted. i figure with header & intake mod it'll be 180hp territory.

03tLsNBP

iTrader: (9)

anyone know of an app as comprehensive as this one for android?

pickler

nope there isn't. as for me, the 156hp number is def wrong. going to find a dynojet near my place and get my car dynoed.

justnspace

iTrader: (1)

fsssssssstty, how much HP are you making?

RUF87

I'm sure you heard this, but get your 60' time down. If I'm partially correct, if you aren't getting good results on you runs these sort of apps will calculate based on the results which won't reflect your true dyno results. So with that, I'm betting that if you went to a shop and did some dyno test you'd end up with a better result.

BTW, I'm not sure what the yellow curve is, but it looks a bit funky once what would be VTEC range kicks in.

Ruf

pickler

are you talking about the first run or second (gate shifting)? i was worried before with 16.2s 1/4 mi and 8s 0-60, because according to other websites 0-60 7.4 and 1/4 mi of 15.7 is dead on for a TL-P. as for 60' i have no idea how to improve that, i am on brand new tires. but i am happy with my 2nd run.

RUF87

Not sure what a TL-P does in the 60', but 2.72 sec seems a bit slow. I would have expected something in the 2.4 range, but not really up on them. How are you launching the car? Such as are you bring up the RPM before you take off? How much tire spin are you having?

As for the runs, I just noticed something. Is the yellow line showing the shift points. I've never really looked at this dyno while you drive results. In regard to shifting, gate shifting will produce the best time.

Ruf

Rockstar21

iTrader: (1)

thats why i said with a healthy motor

but even at 10 years old... if maintained correctly, you shouldnt lose 30hp.

farmdevil

The theory would be correct, except for the major detail that we're talking about a phone app. How's a phone gonna measure at the crank? Besides that, the math goes the wrong way. He's complaining about low HP. If that number is at the crank, then we should be even more astounded at the low reading.

In any case though, this is a mobile app so it's limited by the inaccuracy of the accelerometer and/or gps (depending which is used). I wouldn't get too caught up in troubleshooting low numbers without a real dyno run.

fsttyms1

Never dynoed the TL-P motor

Now? not sure, motor is getting a little old, but With the current motor when it was dyno'ed shortly after the 6 speed swap i was around 286 at the wheels (last 1/4 was something 13.46 @ like 104.6). The new motor im putting in im hoping to be in the 310whp range (if and when i ever get it finished (note to those not married, stay that way

fsttyms1

the 2nd run is much closer, but can be better. 60' can improve. Are you brake torquing your launch? TCS off? Any wheel spin? (weather and location also play into it) Surface you are testing on?

justnspace

iTrader: (1)

Geez! at the horsepower not at the married thing

fsttyms1

Im hoping for a nice increase in TQ with the new motor which will really help things. If i can ever get around to affording a new light weight flywheel combined with the lightened crank and crank pulley i will have removed almost 40 lbs of rotational mass motor is going to scream. gotta get the 80 mm tb yet and intake mani modified to fit it along with pistons

sorry

justnspace

iTrader: (1)

^what motor is the new one?

and all you did was stroke the stock motor?

fsttyms1

3.2 block, 3.5 crank, still deciding on RL pistons or the slightly less compression TL-S pistons. Also trying to decide on if i send the block back for the OE slightly oversized pistons Still deciding if i want boost or not either

03tLsNBP

iTrader: (9)

yes, you want boost

justnspace

iTrader: (1)

^then he would have to lower the compression and it wouldnt be as strong of a motor, NA.

03tLsNBP

iTrader: (9)

well which would yield more power? boost or all motor?

justnspace

iTrader: (1)

fatty, isnt sure what route he wants to goo!


p.s. his wife and kids take all his car modding money.


with that being said, he'll go for all motor

03tLsNBP

iTrader: (9)

k back to the thread topic...


i need dynolicious

RUF87

yes . . need more TQ . . . some day, if I keep the car that long I plan on a 3.5 build and doing some machine work to reduce/improve rotational mass. Even with an auto it should run mid 13s.

Ruf

Karanx7

iTrader: (2)

Are you implying that a 10.5:1 (TL-S piston) compression engine with boost wouldn't be as strong as an 11:1 compression (RL piston) NA engine? I don't think that's true.

kdawg8526

iTrader: (3)

havent found a road empty enough for a 1/4 mile run but i ran 6.1 0-60 time with a 60' time of 2.9. spinning thru all of first gear plus i have a 150 lb sub box in the trunk... i think without the box i can break into the 5's

justnspace

iTrader: (1)

I'm sure you know, to boost, you'd lower the compression even more to be SAFE.

i was implying that fattymcfatfat's wife would hold the car mod fund, so that he wouldnt be able to boost his already lowered CR.
butt, it went over everyones head.

pickler

trying to stay on topic

Yes TCS was on now that i think about im not sure why i forgot to turn it off that's probably why 60' is bad. I did torque launch and there was wheelspin, the TCS controlled the spin. I get lots of wheelspin without TCS from standstill if i remember correctly, all the way to ~30mph. so should i do one without TCS even though ill get lots of wheelspin? Weather was 18'c with 80% humidity, relatively new flat asphalt. I think it's the launch that's hurting my time. but my 30-90 times of 12.45s actually beats stock BMW 328i numbers from dynolicious users.

Anyway i got my car on a dynojet this morning and putdown 173hp at 6000rpm and 166 ft-lb at 3800 rpm. According to their records a 2002 TL-S pulled 200hp at the wheels just last month so thats about 23% drivetrain loss. 225x.077=173. seems my number is ok. i'm not sure why dynolicious is displaying too low, its right on for my other cars. For the RDX it displayed 210 stock and 220 with ecu flash, very close to hondata testing #s.

justnspace

iTrader: (1)

but you're not really worried about hp since you have that 1series..