Hello ziners, I could really use your help.

The coolant is leaking pretty bad. Everytime I fill up the res. bottle, it was gone really quick.

I searched around on the forum to try and locate the leak. After about 10mins of nothing, this happened. On the video, smoke. The coolant was leaking only from the right edge as far as I can tell.

The pics and vid tell much more than describing.

http://imgur.com/a/3p1MI



I have no idea what it is.

Sure I could probably take it to a shop but I really want to commit to learn and take care of my car myself (after 1-2 yrs of 0 caring).

Thanks.

 

Oh boy! if there are no obvious causes like the top rad hose or the rad cap its most likely leaking from the Radiator Top Cover and sadly that isn't fixable. You need a new radiator


Good news is that the OEM Radiator only costs 69.99 at Rockauto.com

 

Thanks! Buying a new one and having a go at it.

I swear I neglected my car for so long there's so many repairs needed. It has been a beast though and hasn't let me down.

 

need to flush the coolant every 5 years, even if not doing the water pump replacement
The additives in old coolant go bad, so it eats the radiator and other important parts of the cooling system

don't forget the engine block drain valve when changing the radiator
Good time to install a new Honda brand 2 stage thermostat- the one from honda dealer is fine

 

Alright, I'll have to do more research on those. They are long overdue.


Also, will it be the same/similar step for the TL?

1.
2.

The Radiator DIY from the official thread has no pictures.
https://acurazine.com/forums/second-...ctures-486321/

 

Removing the radiator with the fans it's a little trickier on the TL.
So... You should remove the fans prior to remove the radiator.

Basically:
1.- remove radiator brackets and reservoir line
2.- remove the fan cables and remove the fan switch C cable (Type-S only)
3.- remove the A/C cable attached to the A/C fan shroud
4.- remove both inlet and outlet for the radiator
6.- remove both fans now by unscrewing the top bolts and pulling them away and up.
7.- remove the radiator.

 

Got in the mail 3 days later(yesterday) from Rockauto $80 shipped. Installed it today.

Thankfully didn't have to remove fans first, (maybe bc you have tl-s?)

Got some coolant in my eyes, and a little blood but it was all worth it.

 

Is this the radiator drain plug? Thats what google images is hinting at.

 

^ Nope the drain plug for the block is just left-up from the VTEC Solenoid. If you drained your A/F just at the Radiator your only draining about 30% of the entire coolant in the system. Almost all coolant remains in the block which needs to be drained with the block drain bolt.

 

from under the car= look up between cv shaft and exhaust pipe on passenger side
See the small bolt or butterfly valve?
that's the engine block drain point and needs to be opened or you get lots of old worn out crud left in system to destroy your new rad!

 

Drained the radiator and proceeded to the bolt but cannot remove it. Now I'm stuck, I have 12mm but it's too small. Also tried various other methods.

How do you unscrew yours? Thinking of going to store to pick up tools

 

I thought that was a 12 but ck in the diy section on coolant flush or ck your owner book
no owner book? go here for free download Acura Owners Site | Exclusive Knowledge, Service, & Benefits

pre-treat bolt with wd or similar penetrating spray, also pull to tighten slightly- then loosen
That will usually break the crud buildup in the threads loose

But you found the bolt, right?!
It will be well worth it once you see what comes out
ck for threads with search for: engine block drain

 

Found this thread where op said he used 12mm, should be the same. but I couldnt get it for some reason.

Spend a good 1.5+ Hours locating, and trying to unscrew. (hand was about to cramp)

Will have to try again tomorrow. I'm most afraid of stripping the bolt.

 

Are you sure you are trying to un-do the Drain Nipple? It isn't supposed to be tight as hell, Granted the space is little but to the point of stripping it? Nope.

 

Pretty sure, the nipple confirmed it.

How to find the right wrench size? It's not on manual.

 

It seems to be 12mm as I'm scouring other threads, I must've done something wrong.

Will try again tomorrow, without lying underneath. Will post pictures if trouble.

Thanks for the help fellas

 

only access I am aware of is from below
May need to use some leverage on the wrench- the bolt has been in there more than a decade and dissimilar metals tend to crud together after a while

ck youtube, bet eric the car guy or similar has done it!

 

Got it! It is 12mm indeed. Also sprayed some WD40. Thanks.

To others who may find this thread later, check out this thread, I uploaded the pictures to imgur also (Credits jdjohn84).

The 2nd pic is mine from today, there was a lot of oil buildup, also the case in the engine. Also what the heck is this, I found this in the area near the wiper fluid area.

http://imgur.com/a/5DQJb

 

That's part of your motor mount that came off. Like a balance or vibration absorber.

 

dave - are you sure that not a radiator support somehow?

e: look under and over the passenger side motor mount for anything odd looking about it- grease on rubber parts is bad, so get some of your preferred cleaner spray and have at it

 

Positive.

 

is that a `replace mount now` situation? side motor mount?

good reminder to ck your front and rear motor mounts for leakage of oil or vac leak

 

Alright.

A bit off topic now but which would need more care first (I'll search for other threads on the topic first before creating new thread)

• Shake when braking (mainly at high speed)
• There is robotic creaking noise when turning the wheel
• Timing belt & water pump never been done
• Oil might be leaking somewhere, crud (mount maybe?)

I just changed the spark plugs today. I'm a student so there is limited funds.

 

did you spend the necessary 8 dollars each on the correct NGK?
this is one area of the car we cant scrimp on parts!

oil leaks are cheap to find, some spray cleaner and paper towels

Brake shake can be rotors or steering part or simply wheel balance or loose wheel

Steering noises are never good, ck ps fluid level and condition- people forget to change that and called for every 60kmiles
Might be suspension, or cv joints if in motion, or steering rack or numerous bushing type parts

tbelt- well....they go a long long time, then one day it shreds and breaks in just a few minutes (past experience with an accord) = total loss of engine!!
but junkyard units are cheap!!

water pump- watch coolant level, weep hole on bottom of wp, and coolant condition
Old stuff is bad news = more than 5 years old - dump it!

 

and ck the side motor mount - that missing piece may be important~

reminder: front and rear mounts are fluid filled and vac boosted
its oil is very strange, and not much is inside mount to leak out on failure
Enough to attract dirt or leave 3 drops on your driveway!

 

I did!

This will keep me busy for a while. Thank you.

 

UPDATE: it was hard to get a good shot for video

Turns out theres more coolant leak in other area.

Its right near/under the lower radiator hose. It actually doesn't feel like its from the lower hose itself weird.

I've added the hose, and thermostat (gates) on rockauto cart. That should be good?

 

It can come from the other little hoses as well.
There is one that sends coolant to the Throttle Body and re-Enters in the Coolant Sensor Area.

 

That sounds very likely actually, I saw it drip from the hose (not too small) right near the lower hose.

Does it have a name? Would be great.

 

I cant tell for sure its name? If I were to tell to a mechanic I would call it:


"Throttle Body Coolant Line"

 

pull up an acura parts diagram for their name and part#, or the dealer parts dept can look it up for you

 

have you used a pressure tester to ck all the seams on radiator?

 

I have not. Will have to look into it tomorrow (the loan a tool program).

My 3rd coolant (past 1-2 months ) from the dealer is almost gone now lol.