Korin_ga

Hey after fixing both axles and replacing all motor/tranny mounts, I’ve noticed that the clicking noise has been coming from my passenger half shaft!!🤬🤬 All because previous owner drove with the engine shaking cuz they were too lazy to bring into a shop haha. Anyways I am wondering if you guys would recommend to replace the entire assembly, or just the bearing, or should I take it to a shop and have it done by then because I have not seen a single idea out there on how to do this job. Any suggestions or tips on what to do is much appreciated!!

Jon M

Hi, You can find the information about this by searching for transmission removal or CV axel replacement. You do not need to remove the transmission to replace the shaft but the videos and instructions in the manual should have the information on removing the shafts as it has to be done before you can replace the transmission. Here is the link to download the service manual. I believe that there should be information in section 14. You need to just do steps that are related to removing the CV axles. You can buy a replacement axle through rockauto for about $60 or go OEM.

jmk2003

Rockauto doesn't carry the jackshaft, or intermediate shaft. They only carry L, R full axles. I just had to replace mine as part of the BAYA trans swap. Rather than weld up the cracked aluminum flange, I just said the heck with it and bought a used one via a local dismantler. car-part.com will help you find a local yard, if needed. I walked out for ~$43 with tax. Pulled from an Accord with <65k on it. Works fine. YMMV.

Korin_ga

By the looks of it, it seems pretty easy to do by yourself.
is that true?

Jon M

Korin_ga
The hardest parts are getting the CV joint out of the hub and reaching the bolts on the bracket on the half shaft. It is not a hard job just a bunch of steps to get it removed.

jmk2003,
Your correct rockauto doesn't carry the half shaft. My mistake. Looks like a junk yard or $300.

jmk2003

it is. The shop manual is essential. So is a 36mm axle nut socket and either a high impact gun , or a long cheater bar. I tried the cheater bar approach initially. Bar held, 1/2 craftsman socket wrench didn't. Buy, beg, borrow, but don't steal a high torque impact gun. Axle nut is on with over 200ft-lb...you'll not sway it by hand. After that, pop off the passenger tie rod, sway bar link, 2 bolts to the front frame, lower strut from arm, and then strut lower mount from strut. Pop off the upper ball joint and then you will be able to rotate this rotor/caliper/knuckle mass out of the way to pull out the right side driveshaft. Don't yank on the driveshaft, else, you'll need to buy a new one if you pull apart the CV joint. They are made to rotate, not spread apart. Between the driveshaft and the intermediate shaft, the gentle application of a pry bar will pop the CV axle off w/o damaging it. Now you're on to the intermediate shaft. There's 2 10mm fasteners holding on a clamshell like cover. It's a heat shield. Should be able to get this all from under the car. Once that is out, there are 3 14mm bolts holding the flange end (where I had a crack on mine...) to the engine block. Remove those and support the intermediate shaft, else you might bugger up the trans seal. Don't bugger up the trans seal. A few gentle taps to pull the intermediate shaft away from the trans is needed. That's it. Reverse to install. Follow guidance on cleaning spline ends and lubrication.

jmk2003

Go junkyard, but look for low miles, and remember, V6 Accords work here too, so there's no 'Acura premium' on the part

Korin_ga

Thanks a lot. I'll give it my best shot. My seal seems to be leaking so I will replace that anyways. is that a pull and push procedure?
The job doesn't seem too hard other then removing the cv axle which only takes me one hour.
Also I read one the forums this website saying that the torque spec is 181ftlb and not above 200? unless it just gets tighter after driving it for a while idk haha anyways I was able to get it off with a breaker bar with my dad holding on the breaks.
Ebay is telling me $200 for the shaft lol ill keep digging and see what the internet has to offer.

jmk2003

no affiliation, but try www.car-parts.com, enter make/model/etc and search. they aren't $200 used.

oil seal can be done in the car, but it's a pita. shop manual, section 14-461 (for 5AT), always pictures the trans on a bench. ugh.

driveshaft assy/removal info, sect 16-xxx, and your intermediate shaft removal begins in sect 16-21

edit: oh, and you're right about 181ft-lb. it's in there manual, sect 16-20....but I gotta tell you mine were over 200...guaranteed. The 1/2" anvil on a Craftsman USA ratchet spun and tore off like a tootsie roll. Cheap-a$$ $100 Ryobi at my local HD (matched my battery set), took both off in seconds....YMMV

Korin_ga

Yup, I’ve tried the part.com website and hopefully something nice will come by.
do you know the process of doing the oil seals from outside? Seems that I need to spend some $$ for specialty tools. I’m contemplating on bringing into a ship since they charge for 2hours and on the manual it says to remove the diff cover?¿
I ain’t giving up on this car it’s too good lol

haha that story reminds me of when I tried to break loose a oil plug with a 1/4 “ ratchet while I worked at Toyota as a lube tech lol

Korin_ga

Can I replace the oil seal without removing torque converter or diff cover?

jmk2003

L/R side seals for the driveshafts appear to be replaceable from outside the trans case. Room is an issue. As for the 'special tool', if you do not have a seal driver kit of some kind, an O'Reilly-like parts store usually has one to rent for free. However, if they are not leaking - don't bugger them up. If one/both are, well you're sorta committed. Search the site for any older threads for assistance.

zeta

iTrader: (1)

Just curious, what made you go with the BAYA?
From your other thread back in Sept 2022, I thought you were pretty well committed to '...a 50K mile JDM MAYA for the cost of some 100k+ BAYA's'.
bleary eyed reading allll the AV6 threads...but have a single question: - AcuraZine - Acura Enthusiast Community

jmk2003

Good point! I kept researching a Japanese built MAYA, but even with all the importers of used eng/trans/etc, I couldn't get a handle on one...then, unfortunately, I fell ill for a long time. I stumbled upon a BAYA in Vancouver BC for cheap with low km, so I jumped on it. It's working fine!

edit - besides, 88km is ~55k miles...and $440US. And I got to enjoy some great dim sum while in Vancouver. Win win.

Thefireball

+1 on Ryobi. Love my Ryobi tools, and my impact zipped axle nuts off like they were nothing.

jmk2003

oh don't get me wrong - I have a workbench full of them. $99 for a 1/2" impact gun, rated at 375 ft-lb, with battery and charger. Can't beat it. Cheap. I don't need high end for this.

Jon M

Took the Milwaukee to get mine off. I bent the 1/2 breaker bar with an 8 foot pipe extension, the Ryobi and the Porter Cable didn't move it the Milwaukee had no problems.

jmk2003

yeah, I debated, but $99 for a gun, battery and charger vs the $$$ Milwaukee....spec rating for the Ryobi was 375ft-lb....and some online sites had it 'tested' as a bit over 300. Figured if this can't bust loose a 181ft-lb nut....but then again the history of this 03 TL-S is OEM, plus 2 replacement B7WAs....so who knows. Maybe the last mechanic went a little overboard. Amazed the Ryobi impact gun didn't get it, but maybe you're were gorilla tight!?!

I've been reading your posts Jon - learned a lot - thanks!

Off to the tire shop tomorrow. Alignment was too far off for so much of the front end removed.

Jon M

Unfortunately it is not uncommon for people to just use the impact gun and not use a torque wrench. Torque wrenches are a good investment to make, it helps avoid sheared bolts and stripped holes. Specially on Aluminum blocks.