grounding wires

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Old Jan 22, 2006 | 12:28 AM
  #1  
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grounding wires

I finally got around to re wiring my ground wires, at the same time I also changed my battery terminals to the HPM stinger terminals and all I can say is that I am very happy. First off the positive battery terminal has a digital readout on it which lets you know how much juice the battery has left, which I think is very cool. Second, and more important the car does feel smoother. My grounding wires were in the same shape as others here which have already done this mod. I can only assume that the car feels smoother b/e the wires are brand new and are insulated all the way to the ends, unlike the wires that were there previously. Overall, I give the mod two thumbs up, cheap mod which is very easy to do. If any of you reading this are bored one day and have nothing to do, I say tackle this mod, you'll thank me in the morning.
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Old Jan 22, 2006 | 09:43 AM
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it is a very good mod to do, more maintenance then anything, but I do feel the larger gauge wires help smooth out the engine a little more than new 8ga would. I also got new terminals when I did this, but went with tsunami gold plated terminals and I very happy. I have an Optima red top and my car starts very quickly when I turn the ignition, no hesitation at all and it starts much smoother and quieter than before. this is a cheap mod to do also. I got the tsunami terminals on sale at AutoZone for 35.00 for the pair. I believe they are usually 35.00 a piece.
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Old Jan 22, 2006 | 10:52 AM
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Yeah, its a great mod, I believe you were one of the first to do it.
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Old Jan 22, 2006 | 12:37 PM
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there were a few who did it themselves before me, but seems like everyone is doing it now. I recommend everyone on this board to do it, only good can come from it.
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Old Jan 22, 2006 | 02:18 PM
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I did it!
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Old Jan 22, 2006 | 02:26 PM
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Has anyone used the Hypervoltage system from Sun Automobile?
Their site won't let me link directly to the correct page but just go here and click on products/hypervoltage

http://www.sunautomobile.com/

I have heard from other forums that this works really well.
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Old Jan 22, 2006 | 02:57 PM
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I have the Hyper voltage kit MR, can't really feel a change.


edit - It looks cool though to have in the engine bay
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Old Jan 22, 2006 | 10:26 PM
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Has anyone hooked up a voltmeter/ammeter to see if this changes anything or if this is another case of "oil change phenomenon"?
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Old Jan 23, 2006 | 07:57 AM
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Originally Posted by SwampGas
Has anyone hooked up a voltmeter/ammeter to see if this changes anything or if this is another case of "oil change phenomenon"?
i'd be willing to do that. probably not until the weather gets a little better around here, but i imagine you could rig something up to measure any leakage current and look at the resistance of the wiring, etc. once it gets a little warmer up here during the days i'll probably do this on a weekend morning.

SSTS
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Old Jan 23, 2006 | 09:47 AM
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Is there a grounding wire kit to use, or did you guys just buy some wire and use that?
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Old Jan 23, 2006 | 10:51 AM
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alright bare with me fellas im new to the whole grounding kit thing....can you please explain a little of what it does and the purpose becuase i thought you only needed one when you have a system??
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Old Jan 23, 2006 | 01:03 PM
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Originally Posted by SatinSilverTypS
i'd be willing to do that. probably not until the weather gets a little better around here, but i imagine you could rig something up to measure any leakage current and look at the resistance of the wiring, etc. once it gets a little warmer up here during the days i'll probably do this on a weekend morning.
SSTS
I'm really curious about that. Bigger wire doesn't necessarily mean a better path...if you want a truly better path, you'd use copper tubing or a copper strap and then silver solder or weld it.
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Old Jan 23, 2006 | 06:46 PM
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Originally Posted by SwampGas
I'm really curious about that. Bigger wire doesn't necessarily mean a better path...if you want a truly better path, you'd use copper tubing or a copper strap and then silver solder or weld it.
if you look at your stock grounds, you can tell the poor quality and from the rust and corrosion, its obvious they didnt conduct very well. here is my thread when i did this myself before...and copper tubing isnt flexible (obviously) or durable and that is why people dont use that

https://acurazine.com/forums/technology-16/oh-come-cant-windows-programmers-somewhat-original-127301/
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Old Jan 23, 2006 | 11:00 PM
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Originally Posted by ou sig
if you look at your stock grounds, you can tell the poor quality and from the rust and corrosion, its obvious they didnt conduct very well. here is my thread when i did this myself before...and copper tubing isnt flexible (obviously) or durable and that is why people dont use that
It's not flexible, per se...but you can bend it very easily with your hands (I'm not talking about the stuff used for water pipes). I use it all the time at work.

Summer project...see if copper tubing and straps take away those extra ohms
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Old Jan 24, 2006 | 09:24 AM
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Originally Posted by ou sig
if you look at your stock grounds, you can tell the poor quality and from the rust and corrosion, its obvious they didnt conduct very well. here is my thread when i did this myself before...and copper tubing isnt flexible (obviously) or durable and that is why people dont use that

https://acurazine.com/forums/showthread.php?t=127301
Thank you, you beat me to it, I was going to link your thread on here. I did exactly what ou sig did word for word. The only difference is that I purchased the positive battery terminal with a digital readout on it, you know that way I know the juice the battery has in it.
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Old Jan 24, 2006 | 04:50 PM
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Originally Posted by jleon2516
Thank you, you beat me to it, I was going to link your thread on here. I did exactly what ou sig did word for word. The only difference is that I purchased the positive battery terminal with a digital readout on it, you know that way I know the juice the battery has in it.
That just gave me a GREAT idea for those ricey cars with 20 gauges all over the dash. Ammeter in the battery line, ammeter in the alternater line, voltage between positive and frame, and voltage between positive/negative posts.

I'll have to market and sell it at some of the Carlisle car shows at the fairgrounds
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Old Jan 24, 2006 | 05:40 PM
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Originally Posted by jleon2516
Thank you, you beat me to it, I was going to link your thread on here. I did exactly what ou sig did word for word. The only difference is that I purchased the positive battery terminal with a digital readout on it, you know that way I know the juice the battery has in it.
Is this the one that you have? Where did you get it?
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Old Jan 24, 2006 | 05:47 PM
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And what size wire terminals did you use. Thanks for the info.
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Old Jan 24, 2006 | 08:56 PM
  #19  
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Originally Posted by jleon2516
Thank you, you beat me to it, I was going to link your thread on here. I did exactly what ou sig did word for word. The only difference is that I purchased the positive battery terminal with a digital readout on it, you know that way I know the juice the battery has in it.
I would have got that one also, but it was more expensive and I already have a meter on my capacitor so i didnt need another one. Though, because the positive terminal on the battery is larger in diameter, it was a bitch getting the negative terminal on the positive side of the battery. I actually had to shave off some of the terminal with a knife to help it fit.
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Old Jan 25, 2006 | 05:39 PM
  #20  
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Originally Posted by snowman81
Is this the one that you have? Where did you get it?
Sorry for the delayed responce, I did purchase the one you have pictured, however I purchased the one with the platinum finish. I bought it from bag boy on ebay. I used 4 gauge stinger wire, also from bagboy. I purchased everything ou sig did, the only difference is that I purchased the positive terminal meter, whereas he already had one on his cap. Let me know if you need anything else.
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Old Jan 25, 2006 | 05:42 PM
  #21  
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Originally Posted by SwampGas
That just gave me a GREAT idea for those ricey cars with 20 gauges all over the dash. Ammeter in the battery line, ammeter in the alternater line, voltage between positive and frame, and voltage between positive/negative posts.

I'll have to market and sell it at some of the Carlisle car shows at the fairgrounds
That cool, just remember to cut me a check for giving you the idea. j/k
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Old Jan 25, 2006 | 09:50 PM
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Originally Posted by jleon2516
Sorry for the delayed responce, I did purchase the one you have pictured, however I purchased the one with the platinum finish. I bought it from bag boy on ebay. I used 4 gauge stinger wire, also from bagboy. I purchased everything ou sig did, the only difference is that I purchased the positive terminal meter, whereas he already had one on his cap. Let me know if you need anything else.
Yeah,I personally like the platinum finish with the blue LED better also. I'll have to see if I can look bagboy up on ebay. One last question, do you remember what size the wire terminals were. The ones that you connected to the other end of the wire that wasn't going to the battery? Thanks for all the info. I'll probably be doing this mod very soon.
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Old Jan 27, 2006 | 04:38 PM
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Just ordered my Stinger battery terminals (platinum with digital readout) and 7 feet of Stinger 4 gauge wire. I know that 7 feet may be a little to much but i just wanted to be safe. I ordered from www.darvex.com. The shipping is ridiculously quick. I ordered it at 3:28, got confirmation and shipping info by 5:14 and it should be here Monday or Tuesday. That was with the cheapest mailing service they had, which was USPS Priority for like $8. Extremely happy with that shipping.
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Old Jan 27, 2006 | 06:04 PM
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Originally Posted by snowman81
Just ordered my Stinger battery terminals (platinum with digital readout) and 7 feet of Stinger 4 gauge wire. I know that 7 feet may be a little to much but i just wanted to be safe. I ordered from www.darvex.com. The shipping is ridiculously quick. I ordered it at 3:28, got confirmation and shipping info by 5:14 and it should be here Monday or Tuesday. That was with the cheapest mailing service they had, which was USPS Priority for like $8. Extremely happy with that shipping.
you also need ring terminals to connect the wire ends to your chasis and engine block - a pack of 4 will do
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Old Jan 27, 2006 | 07:48 PM
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Originally Posted by ou sig
you also need ring terminals to connect the wire ends to your chasis and engine block - a pack of 4 will do
Yeah, I picked some up. 4 gauge with 5/16 ring...will those work?
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Old Jan 27, 2006 | 10:13 PM
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Originally Posted by snowman81
Yeah, I picked some up. 4 gauge with 5/16 ring...will those work?
should work just fine
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Old Jan 27, 2006 | 10:44 PM
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best thing about this upgrade is the very strong and quick start. your car will start quicker, stronger and easier after you do this.
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