Foggy headligts on 2000 TL
Foggy headligts on 2000 TL
Hello,
Has anyone had any success using lens restoration compounds to
make front driving headlight clear.
Thanks.
for example
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/3-1-H...item4a9cf69776
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/PLAST...item20a99f1b8b
Has anyone had any success using lens restoration compounds to
make front driving headlight clear.
Thanks.
for example
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/3-1-H...item4a9cf69776
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/PLAST...item20a99f1b8b
depending on how bad- the kits that attach a buffer to power drill = awesome results
By hand works if you are patient and have a few grades of sandpaper
Protect the plastic when done by applying synthetic car wax to the lens
note- it always looks worse before it gets better when polishing them
Protect surrounding car paint with blue painters tape
By hand works if you are patient and have a few grades of sandpaper
Protect the plastic when done by applying synthetic car wax to the lens
note- it always looks worse before it gets better when polishing them
Protect surrounding car paint with blue painters tape
i used this kit and it worked great
Meguiar's G1900K Headlight and Clear Plastic Restoration Kit
http://www.amazon.com/Meguiars-G1900.../dp/B001O7I7FS
i liked how i did not go through all the included polish so i have plenty for future work.
it does everything in one step and you can apply it without the drill (on a sock) attachment if you want
if you go this route, de-fluf the head thing as mine lost some bristles when i first started and it made a mess
Meguiar's G1900K Headlight and Clear Plastic Restoration Kit
http://www.amazon.com/Meguiars-G1900.../dp/B001O7I7FS
i liked how i did not go through all the included polish so i have plenty for future work.
it does everything in one step and you can apply it without the drill (on a sock) attachment if you want
if you go this route, de-fluf the head thing as mine lost some bristles when i first started and it made a mess
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resealing the lens plastic with car wax is the missed step
- synthetic last longer- has higher melt point than carnuba. and will make your car look `wet` all the time~
maintain with claybar same as you would the paint before its big polish and wax
polish is a scrubbing effect, polishing out sanding marks with higher grade- less grit, in steps.
10 bucks harbor freight!! ball buffer for drill, and compounds
walmart gets 50 bucks for this job and doesnt reseal the lens!
- synthetic last longer- has higher melt point than carnuba. and will make your car look `wet` all the time~
maintain with claybar same as you would the paint before its big polish and wax
polish is a scrubbing effect, polishing out sanding marks with higher grade- less grit, in steps.
10 bucks harbor freight!! ball buffer for drill, and compounds
walmart gets 50 bucks for this job and doesnt reseal the lens!
headlight restoration
Hello,
I heard a few folks mentioned to use regular white toothpaste.
do you just rub with a cloth.
then aftewards, use off the shelf commercial was from Walmart or Target stores.
Thanks.
I heard a few folks mentioned to use regular white toothpaste.
do you just rub with a cloth.
then aftewards, use off the shelf commercial was from Walmart or Target stores.
Thanks.
Did mine a few months ago.
Wetsand, wetsand, wetsand, until the water isn't a milky color anymore (makes sure to keep the paper wet! I used a sponge & put the paper around it, keeps from getting pressure points on the paper.)
Then took a buffer & some buffing compound (I think). They look great now!
Wetsand, wetsand, wetsand, until the water isn't a milky color anymore (makes sure to keep the paper wet! I used a sponge & put the paper around it, keeps from getting pressure points on the paper.)
Then took a buffer & some buffing compound (I think). They look great now!
I wet sanded mine with the following grits: 600, 800, 1000, 2000, 3000, 5000. At the end you want to polish them with a polishing compound and cloth. The lens turned out brand new.
But they will haze again if you don't protect them with a coating. I used a clear coat spray with UV protection. I put on 3 coats.
But they will haze again if you don't protect them with a coating. I used a clear coat spray with UV protection. I put on 3 coats.
The wet sanding and white toothbrush is the cheapest way to go, and it really works, ive done it to 3 cars including my own.. just have to be patient, they deffinitely get worse before they clear up during the process.. Unfortunetly my driver side headlight came out brand new, & the passenger side looks horrrrrrrrible lol i think the condensation is on the inside or something =( Anyways, wetsand, and toothpaste... it works and its cheap.. (then wax them after)
Joined: Sep 2008
Posts: 78,249
Likes: 20,202
if you don't seal, they will look like crap again in a few months. Anyone can polish and make them look clear...but to permanently fix them, I've been researching.
There's a package with multiple steps, last of which is a chemical bonding sealant that claims to be a lifetime warranty and will never come back to yellow.
They have it at advance auto. Called CRYSTAL VIEW.
There's a package with multiple steps, last of which is a chemical bonding sealant that claims to be a lifetime warranty and will never come back to yellow.
They have it at advance auto. Called CRYSTAL VIEW.
Mine look crapped up on the inside as well, and it's having serious affect on my nighttime comfort.
I'm even considering the $84 each aftermarket headlight assemblies.
Anyone else have discoloration on the inside?
I'm even considering the $84 each aftermarket headlight assemblies.
Anyone else have discoloration on the inside?
Joined: Sep 2008
Posts: 78,249
Likes: 20,202
Well, if you're building up condensation inside, it's probably mold/water stains from being exposed to it over time.
$84/side ain't bad...but I'd rather spend 20 bucks.
Bake the headlights, open them up and wipe down the inside, seal back up with some extra butyl rubber and then do the crystal view on the outside. BRAND NEW lookin!
$84/side ain't bad...but I'd rather spend 20 bucks.
Bake the headlights, open them up and wipe down the inside, seal back up with some extra butyl rubber and then do the crystal view on the outside. BRAND NEW lookin!
It sure sounds easier doing the buffing in the shop, on the big wheel, rather than at the car,
moving the lens across the buff, rather than the buff across the lens.
So, the inside would not normally require buffing, but rather, cleaning only?
moving the lens across the buff, rather than the buff across the lens.
So, the inside would not normally require buffing, but rather, cleaning only?
Joined: Sep 2008
Posts: 78,249
Likes: 20,202
You would think. Technically, the suns rays couldn't have gotten to the inside lense and deteriorated it or made it hazy. You'd be surprised how clear the outside will make them though. When they are wet, do they look clear?
Also, I agree...buffing off the car is nice...but it's dangerous...most of those wheels can burn the plastic very quickly. Look into youtube... crystal view. It's a product you can apply by hand (it's a 4 step process) and supposedly it chemically seals the lights clear forever.
Also, I agree...buffing off the car is nice...but it's dangerous...most of those wheels can burn the plastic very quickly. Look into youtube... crystal view. It's a product you can apply by hand (it's a 4 step process) and supposedly it chemically seals the lights clear forever.
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