csmaan12

So before I decided to post this, I did a search on here about my problem, as is my own personal rule to do so before I make a post. What I found is that the common problem with a fluctuating idle on the TL is a dirty IAC.

However I just wanted to confirm that this is also my problem as well. Here's a short run down of what happened.

I took off my throttle body to clean it, I used throttle body cleaner (CRC TB Cleaner to be specific). I then put everything back together, started my car, and my RPM's were jumping from 1000-1750, and it just kept jumping up and down like that. Took my car for a drive and it performed very weird. It would keep a constant speed when I let off the accelerator, and when I would slow down the car felt like it wanted to keep going, sort of speeding very slightly as I slowed down.

I went home after that, it threw a P0505 code at me (CEL, and TCS lights came on) and started idling at about 2000, I then deleted the code, turned the car on and it was idling at about 1000-1100, however I ever so lightly touched the gas pedal and it started fluctuating again.

After that I decided I'll unplug the battery, and leave it for an hour or so. An hour later I go back to my car, turn it on after reconnecting battery, and it seems to be idling okay (usually idles between 800-900), was idling around 1000, and then I decided to take my chances and give the gas pedal a tap, lo and behold, started fluctuating again. So I unplugged battery again, and here I am.

Could this be another issue besides a dirty IAC (which I haven't checked, but it is likely the case). Everything else is on tight, all hoses are tight, the vacuum hose from my intake to the engine is tight. Everything.

I appreciate any input you guys can provide me with, I've been at this for a good 8 hours or so.

NSXNEXT

iTrader: (2)

Yes, it's the IACV. It got clogged when you cleaned the throttle body. You can try removing it and spraying carb cleaner in it to clean it.
Worst case is you need to purchase a new one.

fsttyms1

when you pulled off the TB did you replace the TB gasket?

01tl4tl

you removed the TB from the engine just to spray clean its air plate in the throat??

once off the engine, it needs to be flipped over and IACV cover removed
bend holder tab and remove IAC rod- clean air slit in rod and its compartment
put back together
make sure there is correct freeplay in throttle cables so they dont mess with you,
and the air plate is wide open at full throttle-- by the pedal use

01tl4tl

and new TB/manifold gasket to be safe!! vac leaks are common source of idle fluctuation

01tl4tl

kris- would you put the pic back up of your dirty rod please! thanks

let me clarify--your IACV rod~

03tl-s04mdx

^

webmastir

^lol

iirc, i've read others mention that you can easily put the manifold gasket on upside down (looks very similar right side up vs upside down). you think there's a chance that could be causing his issue?

JterrorC

iTrader: (1)

(six grader mind) he said dirty rod..hahahahahahahaha...lol

csmaan12

This is very possible because when I was putting the gasket back the notches on it didn't seem to align with the TB...


Thanks for all the replies, I'm going to go try everything right now. I really do think its the gasket though.

csmaan12

I did not just spray clean it, I scrubbed it thoroughly with a wire brush on its walls and on the valve. Anyways, my problem ended up being that my gasket was on backwards, I just flipped it over (luckily before it fused to the IM), and now everything works as if there were never a problem.


Thanks everyone for the replies, I'll keep everything you guys said in mind for future use. Also sorry for double post.

01tl4tl

please clarify for us what you did?
removed TB from engine: spray cleaned inside throat and air plate
WIRE BRUSH??? where? no scratches??

which valve? if you didnt service the IACV on bottem of TB?

the gasket that usually gets flipped is the one for the top cover, not the TB to manifold
but if that one can be installed wrong too, its something we should add to the DIY

reminder you can clear the ECU-codes-force a master system reset after problem fixed by pulling the CLOCK fuse on passenger end of dash for a minute
its the secret backup power to the ecu
that way you dont have to input radio-nav security codes and reset stations

csmaan12

The gasket from the TB to the manifold CAN be flipped upside down and block passages that should not be blocked (as was the case with me).



See how theres two notches, they align with some notches on the throttle body, and the intake manifold. The way I had the gasket on there, it was actually blocking the notched part. In the picture is the same exact gasket I ordered from O'Reilly.

And yes I used a metal brush, and a rag to wipe the inside clean, no scratches.



I bought a set from Auto Zone, which came with two softer metal brushes so as to not scratch the surface, and one brass brush which is for scratching a surface.

csmaan12

Gah I wish I could edit my post instead of double posting, but here goes what I wanted to add to the above. When I said "valve" in my earlier posts, I meant the butterfly valve that the throttle cable is connected to.

Also for whoever is wonder I have a 2001 Acura TL-P, 155k miles on the clock, and I believe its the original transmission with no oil jet installed. Still going strong thankfully, even with the way I drive it sometimes.

Also thanks for that fuse tip, it got really annoying disconnecting and reconnecting the battery so many times.

01tl4tl

ck the trans for blue paint on bolt heads--with no oil jet kit that would be a post 2005 replacement unit from acura

If actually OE trans, get to dealer for the recall oil jet kit--
it really is important to keep 2nd gear shaft from snapping while on the freeway

with your miles, its way overdue for EGR port and passage cleaning
Was the `air plate` inside tb throat that dirty it needed a wire brush??

csmaan12

Well the rag I used couldn't do the job, but then the wire brush did a great job on the other hand.

I'll check the DIY, for the EGR cleaning, I was digging around there yesterday but didn't feel like doing anything.

01tl4tl

https://acurazine.com/forums/2g-tl-1999-2003-98/diy-thermoblok-spacers-install-egr-cleaning-615644/

ignore the part about install different studs- thats for thermoblock spacer install
the rest of the removal-passage and port cleaning-install is same regardless

the top gasket as you take the manifold off,, has that same upside down flip issue,,
- set on counter face up!

01tl4tl

for others-
a toothbrush is suggested as soft tool to remove stubborn carbon from air plate in TB

Deep Creep/Seafoam works wonders at loosening the crud, and when sprayed thru the TB- will lube the hinge pivot for the air plate
Good idea to lube throttle cables and return spring assembly on TB while you are there

csmaan12

Sweet I got something to do for when its warm . Is the gasket change on the IM mandatory or is it reusable, so as to avoid pulling another idiot move :P.

Also do you guys have any recommendations as to how to get my header bolts off (mainly for the heat shield). I'm asking because it looks like if I even touch them with a socket they'll just rip off, and I've been wanting to invest in some new headers for a while now but it seems impossible because of the bolts.

01tl4tl

spray penetrating lube,,, a few times over a couple days- with heat from driving helping it do its thing,,then set ratchet to tighten and apply gentle pressure, then set to loosen-that often breaks any bond,,should get those cover bolts off ok then

iirc all the gaskets are reusable-IF you are very careful not to bend the metal ones and of course not tear the paper ones
you have the 1 that normally would be purchased for TB

but I have a thermokit which came with new gaskets.. so dont trust me- ck the diy

01tl4tl

its the first gasket you get to taking to cover off the manifold- that one can be flipped over and mess you up big time
Thats why I set all the removed parts `face up` on the bench, so they go back on the same way they came off