Excelerate Performance: INGALLS Engine Torque Damper Groupbuy!!!
#242
Well, I got my box today.
The box was in good shape but the damper itself had come out of its cradle and was banging around in the box.
It picked up some scratches and good sized dings.
After duty fees I paid 170$.
I would expect that it came in mint condition and packed at least in peanuts for that money... I showed it to my old man and he was kinda unimpressed too.
Did this happen to anyone else.
I'm kinda bummed...
The box was in good shape but the damper itself had come out of its cradle and was banging around in the box.
It picked up some scratches and good sized dings.
After duty fees I paid 170$.
I would expect that it came in mint condition and packed at least in peanuts for that money... I showed it to my old man and he was kinda unimpressed too.
Did this happen to anyone else.
I'm kinda bummed...
Last edited by thelastaspec; 09-09-2010 at 10:45 PM.
#248
What I have noticed is that when the engine is cold (i.e.- low temps under the hood) it works better than when everything is warmed up.
This makes sense because if there is a rubber/urethane like compund doing the dampening then it would be more plyable when it's at a higher temp.
This makes sense because if there is a rubber/urethane like compund doing the dampening then it would be more plyable when it's at a higher temp.
#249
2000 acura tl FPR
iTrader: (1)
i've heard many good things about haltech and i trust my tuner as he's hooked up many haltechs before.
http://www2.haltech.com.au/index.php...=105&Itemid=20
#252
2000 acura tl FPR
iTrader: (1)
yes, that's just for parts haha. no i have now idea when it'll be ready. i gave him the service manual to our cars last night so hopefully that'll speed things up. if you want to see it, you can always roll down to DK's shop in frankfort. or you could just wait your happy ass till it's street ready and i'll bring it to a 502 meet.
#253
Lamborghini Aventador FTW
iTrader: (4)
Anyone install the "stiffy" w/ the neuspeed strut bar? I just got mine the other day and was looking at the mounting bracket on the strut tower. I don't think the strut bar can be installed at the same time as the stiffy, the bolt is not long enough.
Hmm any suggestion?
Hmm any suggestion?
#255
B A N N E D
iTrader: (4)
look on civicdrivr's thread, it is installed already, and he just trimmed the 4th hole off of the bracker, so it did not interfere with the neuspeed strut brace
, and if anything it would be less, as far as stressing the casing/housing itself, because of those mounts not needing to take as much force, but far as the internals go, not really related (but the crappy shifts will become more noticeable though, if it happens to be going out already)
, and if anything it would be less, as far as stressing the casing/housing itself, because of those mounts not needing to take as much force, but far as the internals go, not really related (but the crappy shifts will become more noticeable though, if it happens to be going out already)
#260
Racer
iTrader: (2)
Join Date: Oct 2003
Location: RR, TX (used to be Seattle)
Age: 54
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Just spent the afternoon installing my "stiffy" w/ Neuspeed Strut bar.
1. Trim the upper bracket so the neuspeed sit flush. You'll end up w/ 3 holes. I used jigsaw and then grind down the sharp edges and burrs w/ a dremel.
2. You have to take off the neuspeed strut bar in order to install the upper bracket.
3. I would advise support the engine when removing the stock bolt from the engine mount. I noticed that the engine dropped a bit while I was removing the bolt. This might help to align the bolt hole during reinstall. I didn't have any issue w/ stripped bolts.
4. the stock bolts on the engine were on really tight. I had to whip out my 660 ft/lb impact wrench to get it out.
Once the 2 brackets are installed, the rest were pretty easy.
1. Trim the upper bracket so the neuspeed sit flush. You'll end up w/ 3 holes. I used jigsaw and then grind down the sharp edges and burrs w/ a dremel.
2. You have to take off the neuspeed strut bar in order to install the upper bracket.
3. I would advise support the engine when removing the stock bolt from the engine mount. I noticed that the engine dropped a bit while I was removing the bolt. This might help to align the bolt hole during reinstall. I didn't have any issue w/ stripped bolts.
4. the stock bolts on the engine were on really tight. I had to whip out my 660 ft/lb impact wrench to get it out.
Once the 2 brackets are installed, the rest were pretty easy.
Anyone install the "stiffy" w/ the neuspeed strut bar? I just got mine the other day and was looking at the mounting bracket on the strut tower. I don't think the strut bar can be installed at the same time as the stiffy, the bolt is not long enough.
Hmm any suggestion?
Hmm any suggestion?
#261
Another group buy is going on in the CL forum:
https://acurazine.com/forums/2g-cl-2001-2003-50/excelerate-performance-ingalls-engine-torque-damper-groupbuy-785412/
https://acurazine.com/forums/2g-cl-2001-2003-50/excelerate-performance-ingalls-engine-torque-damper-groupbuy-785412/
#262
So im installing mine now as i needed to get a replacement part shipped to me, the instructions say you can put dynamat in betwween the car and the strut tower etd mount bracket. I went to a sound shop and got a scrap chunk from them, but now that my dad and I are looking at it, it dosent seem right to have something with play in between the body and the bracket. I feel that over time this will get loose no matter how hard its torqued...
What did you guys do or have to think about this?
or where would you put the dynamat?
What did you guys do or have to think about this?
or where would you put the dynamat?
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