engine removal
#1
engine removal
I'm going to change the motor in my 99 TL. Can I remove it from the top? I don't have a lift in my garage but I do have an engine hoist and 4 good quality jack stands. Hoping I can do it from the top but I will get it done whatever it takes. Did a search but couldn't find info. Any suggestions or advice? Thanks.
#2
I removed mine from the top and only the oil filter had to be removed.
Be careful with the ac lines and radiator, also remove the strut bar.
I left the transmission on to make it easier, since you have a 99 the trans is smaller than the 2000 and up so it should be much easier.
Tip: change the rear main seal on the new engine, You'll regret not doing it if it leaks when installed or later on.
Be careful with the ac lines and radiator, also remove the strut bar.
I left the transmission on to make it easier, since you have a 99 the trans is smaller than the 2000 and up so it should be much easier.
Tip: change the rear main seal on the new engine, You'll regret not doing it if it leaks when installed or later on.
#3
99 tl
Awesome, thanks for the quick response. How long did the removal take you? I picked up a motor from Hunts Point Auto Wreckers in the Bronx with 90k for 400.00. Timing belt looks new so I'm not changing it but I'll take your advice on the main seal. Also need to remove and reinstall my original wiring harness as the salvage yard just chopped it on their removal. Leaving the tranny attached was also a decision I needed to make, Thanks very much.
#4
I hate when salvage yards do that, I got mine from NJ, thank god they didn't slice the wiring.
Took me 3 hours since it was my first time doing this kind of work.
I did need help from a couple of friends to position the engine and trans in and out of the bay, In all it took me 2 days.
Another tip the AC compressor can stay in the bay just detach it from the engine, believe I used a 12mm socket for that and only 4bolts holding it.
For the exhaust you just need to remove 6 bolts holding the manifold and down pipe together that can be accessed from the bottom of the car (14mm) if Im right.
Took me 3 hours since it was my first time doing this kind of work.
I did need help from a couple of friends to position the engine and trans in and out of the bay, In all it took me 2 days.
Another tip the AC compressor can stay in the bay just detach it from the engine, believe I used a 12mm socket for that and only 4bolts holding it.
For the exhaust you just need to remove 6 bolts holding the manifold and down pipe together that can be accessed from the bottom of the car (14mm) if Im right.
#6
A little tip for you guys, The hood will stand straight up and give you much more light and room to work. Just pop the hood struts off the mounts on the hood. Take the drivers side hood strut mount and unscrew it and look on the hood about 6" down and over a little, there is a threaded spot for it, thread it in a little bit and hook the hood strut back to it to hold the hood open.
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#8
Done. Well almost
Took me a total of 15 hours by myself. My second motor job ever, the first being my 350 merc in my boat last year. The job went really smooth all the things that could have went wrong didn't. Left the tranny in and just pulled the motor. If it wasn't for the cut wiring harness, I could have knocked 2 hours off the job. Once I was done turned the key and it started right up, smooth as can be. But my batt light and brake light are on. Workin on it now, Don't think I missed anything so I'll let you know what I find. Thanks everyone for your help. If any one has any ideas on the batt/brake light I'm all ears.
#10
Wtf
battery reads 13volts with engine off. Start the car it reads 12.25 volts. I guess the alt is bad. Car still runs when I disconnect battery while running so I know the alt is putting out. Could low voltage be putting the Batt & Brake light on?
#11
Make sure all the connections to the alternator are connected, positive cable tightened on the alternator and voltage regulator connector fully plugged in.
Also make sure the ground is tightened on the thermostat housing.
The p1399 is a random misfire that can be caused by many things, consider changing out the spark plugs for new ones and clean the EGR port on the intake.
Also make sure the ground is tightened on the thermostat housing.
The p1399 is a random misfire that can be caused by many things, consider changing out the spark plugs for new ones and clean the EGR port on the intake.
#12
checked,doublechecked,triplechecked
Did everything you mentioned, even took apart the engine compartment fuse box thinking I might have pulled something loose. Checked all fuses in and out, grounds, etc. Job really went well so I'm baffled. Gonna change the alt tomorrow hope that's it. don't know what else to try. I bought new plugs but didn't change them cause the sticker on the hood said 1mm gap. Need to look into that, doesn't seem right.
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ErickUa5 (03-07-2014)
#14
Glad to hear its all good.
Last tip: Its a good idea to keep some parts from the old engine like ignition coils and throttle body.
Out of topic but make sure to the keep up the maintenance on the transmission.
Last tip: Its a good idea to keep some parts from the old engine like ignition coils and throttle body.
Out of topic but make sure to the keep up the maintenance on the transmission.
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