Engine Oil?
Engine Oil?
I'm going to start changing my own engine oil now(finally), but I need to know how much quarts is needed for one oil change?
and are all synthetic oils good for 7500 miles?
Thanks
and are all synthetic oils good for 7500 miles?
Thanks
search is your friend. you'll find tons of hits with this topic.
to answer your question, it's roughly 5 quarts and 7500 miles is your call. depends what kind of oil and how you drive. typically 7500 miles on fully synthetic will be fine.
to answer your question, it's roughly 5 quarts and 7500 miles is your call. depends what kind of oil and how you drive. typically 7500 miles on fully synthetic will be fine.
4.7 most like my self just put the full 5 quarts in. Regular oil is good for 7500 miles. Look in the manual. Thats whats recommended by honda for oil change intervals. Syn will have added protection longer though.
7500miles regular oil
7500-10K syn oil
15k Mobil 1 Extended performance http://www.mobiloil.com/USA-English/...rformance.aspx
I'm going to be switching over to Mobil 1 Extended Performance on my next oil change and after putting though some seafoam in my oil.
7500-10K syn oil
15k Mobil 1 Extended performance http://www.mobiloil.com/USA-English/...rformance.aspx
I'm going to be switching over to Mobil 1 Extended Performance on my next oil change and after putting though some seafoam in my oil.
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why so often on a good oil like rp??
are you in favor of generating waste oil, and lining someones pockets with profit?
The motorcycle is one thing- very different demands on the oil- but the TL- 7500 miles just like the oil reminder light or MID (gen3) says for it to be done
You have been here long enough to know fsttyms and the oil analysis he had done over 200,000 miles and the long intervals he went on regular- then synthetic oil
RP does great right to 7500- as most oils are designed to last just beyond that- to give a safety margin. Its the special additives that wear out- not the oil itself.
The oil makers know what the auto makers say on change interval~ and make a product to meet demand
are you in favor of generating waste oil, and lining someones pockets with profit?
The motorcycle is one thing- very different demands on the oil- but the TL- 7500 miles just like the oil reminder light or MID (gen3) says for it to be done
You have been here long enough to know fsttyms and the oil analysis he had done over 200,000 miles and the long intervals he went on regular- then synthetic oil
RP does great right to 7500- as most oils are designed to last just beyond that- to give a safety margin. Its the special additives that wear out- not the oil itself.
The oil makers know what the auto makers say on change interval~ and make a product to meet demand
why so often on a good oil like rp??
are you in favor of generating waste oil, and lining someones pockets with profit?
The motorcycle is one thing- very different demands on the oil- but the TL- 7500 miles just like the oil reminder light or MID (gen3) says for it to be done
You have been here long enough to know fsttyms and the oil analysis he had done over 200,000 miles and the long intervals he went on regular- then synthetic oil
RP does great right to 7500- as most oils are designed to last just beyond that- to give a safety margin. Its the special additives that wear out- not the oil itself.
The oil makers know what the auto makers say on change interval~ and make a product to meet demand
are you in favor of generating waste oil, and lining someones pockets with profit?
The motorcycle is one thing- very different demands on the oil- but the TL- 7500 miles just like the oil reminder light or MID (gen3) says for it to be done
You have been here long enough to know fsttyms and the oil analysis he had done over 200,000 miles and the long intervals he went on regular- then synthetic oil
RP does great right to 7500- as most oils are designed to last just beyond that- to give a safety margin. Its the special additives that wear out- not the oil itself.
The oil makers know what the auto makers say on change interval~ and make a product to meet demand
lol, I knew someone would be like "huh?!"
Sometimes I wait longer. Idk, I have 150k miles now, I guess I'm just a lil overly picky. I beleive I changed it at a little over 5k last time.
Now that distance between intervals as well as volume of oil required has been discussed ... next thing is weight of oil to use.
I think the manual states 5W-20 since helps with fuel economy, especially on cold starts. However, if you live in a warmer climate, then you're probably fine with 5W-20 but if you want a little more protection of the oil breaking down (ie keeping it in longer than 7500 miles if you use conventional oil), then you may want to consider 5W-30. I used to switch 5W-20 in the fall and 5W-30 in the spring but then I got lazy ... and went with whatever oil Costco had for Mobil1 ...
I think the manual states 5W-20 since helps with fuel economy, especially on cold starts. However, if you live in a warmer climate, then you're probably fine with 5W-20 but if you want a little more protection of the oil breaking down (ie keeping it in longer than 7500 miles if you use conventional oil), then you may want to consider 5W-30. I used to switch 5W-20 in the fall and 5W-30 in the spring but then I got lazy ... and went with whatever oil Costco had for Mobil1 ...
Manual tells you 3750-7500 miles.
If you use synthetic this range can be possibly doubled.
I use Mobil1 EP, and because I only drive 6-7K miles (city driving mostly), I end up changing it once a year.
If you use synthetic this range can be possibly doubled.
I use Mobil1 EP, and because I only drive 6-7K miles (city driving mostly), I end up changing it once a year.
hahahahahaha
You guys really need to learn what the oil ratings mean- here is a brief version:
W= WINTER= tested flowabilty/viscosity of the oil at 32 degree Farenheit
So super cold areas northern Canada--want 0-W,
medium winter users 5-W
and warm winters 10-W
Its got nothing to do with easier starts unless its 32 degrees F where you live-- today.
It was 60 overnight? or its been driven today? its at the warm viscosity when you start the engine.
The second number is flowabilty rate of the oil measured at 180 degrees- the normal operating temp of oil in modern engines is 180-220 F
Acura used 20 in gen3 because they needed to up the overall mileage of the comapny vehicles- (goggle CAFE fuel standards)
So each model was tweaked to get a little bit more, and they get to figure the numer of those cars sold and more bs--- to meet the govt requirements
IN essence 20 gives maybe .5 mpg more on the test procedure
BUT
It has less ~cushioning~ for the many metal parts that impact each other, and others rotate at thousands of times per minute
30 is the ~better for your engine~ way to go
Hope this helps understand the nature of the numbers game
You guys really need to learn what the oil ratings mean- here is a brief version:
W= WINTER= tested flowabilty/viscosity of the oil at 32 degree Farenheit
So super cold areas northern Canada--want 0-W,
medium winter users 5-W
and warm winters 10-W
Its got nothing to do with easier starts unless its 32 degrees F where you live-- today.
It was 60 overnight? or its been driven today? its at the warm viscosity when you start the engine.
The second number is flowabilty rate of the oil measured at 180 degrees- the normal operating temp of oil in modern engines is 180-220 F
Acura used 20 in gen3 because they needed to up the overall mileage of the comapny vehicles- (goggle CAFE fuel standards)
So each model was tweaked to get a little bit more, and they get to figure the numer of those cars sold and more bs--- to meet the govt requirements
IN essence 20 gives maybe .5 mpg more on the test procedure
BUT
It has less ~cushioning~ for the many metal parts that impact each other, and others rotate at thousands of times per minute
30 is the ~better for your engine~ way to go
Hope this helps understand the nature of the numbers game
It's a waste, acura says every 7500 miles and they know better. 3k and 3500 miles started from oil changers who wish to do more business.
If anything, honda/acura has some of the longest lasting motors in the business.
See the video on the link i provided, very interesting mobil 1 116k, all extended performance test on vegas taxis
Owner manual says 3750 if you drive in sever conditions, and 7500 for normal conditions. If your driven is less than ideal, it should be less than 7500 miles.
Not so sure it's that cut & dried. 7500 highway miles is considerably different than say, 7500 mi. stop & go, many cold starts, contaminant build-up, moisture, etc.
this is probably debated on EVERY car forum and there is never a solid answer. I have had Hondas since 1992 and have always changed my oil every 3-4k, used Honda filters, and used Castrol.
I would be more worried about Hondas weakest point of the car, the paint and body work than any type of engine trouble from oil choices.
Just my .02
I would be more worried about Hondas weakest point of the car, the paint and body work than any type of engine trouble from oil choices.
Just my .02
the 20 is less protection for the engine internals rob- maybe not enough to make the engine die at 150, but you compare a gen2 to gen3 motor and the 30 car is going to have less impact wear
Ask your buddy at chevron which weight protects the engine better!!
Acura cared about making a standard- thats the simple truth of life
They use shit brake calipers when they could use better- but every penny counts....
Ask your buddy at chevron which weight protects the engine better!!
Acura cared about making a standard- thats the simple truth of life
They use shit brake calipers when they could use better- but every penny counts....
this is probably debated on EVERY car forum and there is never a solid answer. I have had Hondas since 1992 and have always changed my oil every 3-4k, used Honda filters, and used Castrol.
I would be more worried about Hondas weakest point of the car, the paint and body work than any type of engine trouble from oil choices.
Just my .02
I would be more worried about Hondas weakest point of the car, the paint and body work than any type of engine trouble from oil choices.
Just my .02
And 99.9% of drivers here arent severe. My car idles most of the day, and i do a ton of stop and go. My oil samples have always shown great results at the 8, 10 and 15k marks. People have simply been brain washed by 3k commercials and oil change places/dealers telling them that it is necessary.
Same here. My last 2 Hondas. 86 Prelude 299,998 miles on it when I sold it for $1000. My 91 Accord EX 304,000 on it = Sold it for $1200. No internal engine problems on either car. They ran great with that mileage on em. I use Fram / other brands since Honda / Acura has jacked up the price on their filters out the roof.
Same here. My last 2 Hondas. 86 Prelude 299,998 miles on it when I sold it for $1000. My 91 Accord EX 304,000 on it = Sold it for $1200. No internal engine problems on either car. They ran great with that mileage on em. I use Fram / other brands since Honda / Acura has jacked up the price on their filters out the roof.
In fact.. my play car is a 87si prelude with 157k on it!! runs great! body? not so great!!
He mentioned nothing about oil change intervals. But I happen to think that whether you change oil at 3k or 7k, honda engines wont be affected. But thats just me. I still change my oil at 3-4k. Its a mental thing.
the 20 is less protection for the engine internals rob- maybe not enough to make the engine die at 150, but you compare a gen2 to gen3 motor and the 30 car is going to have less impact wear
Ask your buddy at chevron which weight protects the engine better!!
Acura cared about making a standard- thats the simple truth of life
They use shit brake calipers when they could use better- but every penny counts....
Ask your buddy at chevron which weight protects the engine better!!
Acura cared about making a standard- thats the simple truth of life
They use shit brake calipers when they could use better- but every penny counts....
Sorry I was refering to the 7500 change, we have miscommunicated. We agree, 5-30 should be used.
And 99.9% of drivers here arent severe. My car idles most of the day, and i do a ton of stop and go. My oil samples have always shown great results at the 8, 10 and 15k marks. People have simply been brain washed by 3k commercials and oil change places/dealers telling them that it is necessary.
Good friends of mine change their regular oil every 15K. One of them, a she, owned a Legend and put 350K on the motor with this frequency of oil changes.
I suspect it's more about other things, like how you drive and where you drive that matters.
I'm going to pull samples off the end of the 15K when ever that comes up and post them here for all to see.
No but he quoted luke who said he changed his every 3-4k and said same here.
Agreed.
Good friends of mine change their regular oil every 15K. One of them, a she, owned a Legend and put 350K on the motor with this frequency of oil changes.
I suspect it's more about other things, like how you drive and where you drive that matters.
I'm going to pull samples off the end of the 15K when ever that comes up and post them here for all to see.
Good friends of mine change their regular oil every 15K. One of them, a she, owned a Legend and put 350K on the motor with this frequency of oil changes.
I suspect it's more about other things, like how you drive and where you drive that matters.
I'm going to pull samples off the end of the 15K when ever that comes up and post them here for all to see.







