engine codes p0420 and p0401 on 1999 tl
1) Take the car by autozone and have the codes read if the engine check light is on.
2) Google those 2 engine codes.
3) If you are familiar with android phones there is an app that you can download on your phone called "Honda Automotive" and it will explain what the codes are.
4) P0420 your catalytic is clogged and P0401 your EGR valve is clogged.
2) Google those 2 engine codes.
3) If you are familiar with android phones there is an app that you can download on your phone called "Honda Automotive" and it will explain what the codes are.
4) P0420 your catalytic is clogged and P0401 your EGR valve is clogged.
Ouch on the cat...
If the cat really is a gonner, then I'd go test pipe or XLR8 High Flow. Maybe try to source a cat from a junkyard car. The OEM cats are REALLY expensive.
If the cat really is a gonner, then I'd go test pipe or XLR8 High Flow. Maybe try to source a cat from a junkyard car. The OEM cats are REALLY expensive.
chances are its really a plugged egr port--99 only has 1 and needs cleaning every 75kmiles..there was a recall for a one time cleaning, then on the owner after that
to ck the cat-a muffler shop will do a temp and pressure flow test for you, usually free
if its bad they will know
but I would start with the simple diy of egr system service
note codes are CLUES, not diagnosis in themself!
here is our diy list, it also has the fault codes on the bottem of it for referance
https://acurazine.com/forums/2g-tl-1999-2003-98/new-official-2nd-gen-tl-diy-thread-706083/
see Thermoblock install and EGR cleaning thread,,ignore the part swap out- just the r&r procedure and cleaning method
to ck the cat-a muffler shop will do a temp and pressure flow test for you, usually free
if its bad they will know
but I would start with the simple diy of egr system service
note codes are CLUES, not diagnosis in themself!
here is our diy list, it also has the fault codes on the bottem of it for referance
https://acurazine.com/forums/2g-tl-1999-2003-98/new-official-2nd-gen-tl-diy-thread-706083/
see Thermoblock install and EGR cleaning thread,,ignore the part swap out- just the r&r procedure and cleaning method
To 01tl4tl
i went on the nhtsa web site for recalls and this was not listed as a recall item. i did have the ignition switch problem and had to argue with dealer to get it fixed. I hate dealing with the dealer! I will take your advice on the other suggestions.
I really appreciate the help!!
carol
I really appreciate the help!!
carol
you need to join acura.com to look up exact recalls on your car-have VIN ready
http://owners.acura.com/registration...istration.aspx
99s have one to install a small smooth bore into the egr port at cylinder.
they cleaned system as part of the job
There may have been a 10 year limit on that - but its a simple diy cleaning with carb cleaner and a wire coat hanger (no kidding) that men and women of acurazine are able to do all the time!!
http://owners.acura.com/registration...istration.aspx
99s have one to install a small smooth bore into the egr port at cylinder.
they cleaned system as part of the job
There may have been a 10 year limit on that - but its a simple diy cleaning with carb cleaner and a wire coat hanger (no kidding) that men and women of acurazine are able to do all the time!!
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Sorry to bump this thread but I didn't wanna make another one since there are plenty of them already.
Here is my problem:
I just got back into my old 2G that my parents have been using and there is a check engine light on, code P0420. Bank 1 blah blah blah we all know it. My dad whose owned the car for the last 3 years told me that check engine light was on for a while, and when my parents were on a road trip that the car just lost power, as if something was choking it, like exhaust wasn't leaving the engine. Since they were 7-8 hours away in some little town, getting parts and all was impossible without them staying there for a day or 2, mechanic took the 3rd cat off, said it was plugged and that the best and fastest way to get them on the road was to just drill it out, so he did, check engine light wasn't on, car seemed fine.
Now I have that same code again. I read 10-20 threads about this and it seems that the popular way about going to fix this is 02 sensors. Checking spark plugs is also a plus. I was thinking of seafoaming first as it's time for an oil change anyway, hoping that would maybe fix it (doubt it tho). This is my new DD and gas consumption is pretty bad on this car, I am guessing it's due to this check engine lights.
Is going through 02 sensor replacements and spark plug replacement a waste of time considering that the 3rd cat is just drilled through? Or is it a good idea to get a test pipe and just take the 3rd cat off all together?
Here is my problem:
I just got back into my old 2G that my parents have been using and there is a check engine light on, code P0420. Bank 1 blah blah blah we all know it. My dad whose owned the car for the last 3 years told me that check engine light was on for a while, and when my parents were on a road trip that the car just lost power, as if something was choking it, like exhaust wasn't leaving the engine. Since they were 7-8 hours away in some little town, getting parts and all was impossible without them staying there for a day or 2, mechanic took the 3rd cat off, said it was plugged and that the best and fastest way to get them on the road was to just drill it out, so he did, check engine light wasn't on, car seemed fine.
Now I have that same code again. I read 10-20 threads about this and it seems that the popular way about going to fix this is 02 sensors. Checking spark plugs is also a plus. I was thinking of seafoaming first as it's time for an oil change anyway, hoping that would maybe fix it (doubt it tho). This is my new DD and gas consumption is pretty bad on this car, I am guessing it's due to this check engine lights.
Is going through 02 sensor replacements and spark plug replacement a waste of time considering that the 3rd cat is just drilled through? Or is it a good idea to get a test pipe and just take the 3rd cat off all together?
Sorry to bump this thread but I didn't wanna make another one since there are plenty of them already.
Here is my problem:
I just got back into my old 2G that my parents have been using and there is a check engine light on, code P0420. Bank 1 blah blah blah we all know it. My dad whose owned the car for the last 3 years told me that check engine light was on for a while, and when my parents were on a road trip that the car just lost power, as if something was choking it, like exhaust wasn't leaving the engine. Since they were 7-8 hours away in some little town, getting parts and all was impossible without them staying there for a day or 2, mechanic took the 3rd cat off, said it was plugged and that the best and fastest way to get them on the road was to just drill it out, so he did, check engine light wasn't on, car seemed fine.
Now I have that same code again. I read 10-20 threads about this and it seems that the popular way about going to fix this is 02 sensors. Checking spark plugs is also a plus. I was thinking of seafoaming first as it's time for an oil change anyway, hoping that would maybe fix it (doubt it tho). This is my new DD and gas consumption is pretty bad on this car, I am guessing it's due to this check engine lights.
Is going through 02 sensor replacements and spark plug replacement a waste of time considering that the 3rd cat is just drilled through? Or is it a good idea to get a test pipe and just take the 3rd cat off all together?
Here is my problem:
I just got back into my old 2G that my parents have been using and there is a check engine light on, code P0420. Bank 1 blah blah blah we all know it. My dad whose owned the car for the last 3 years told me that check engine light was on for a while, and when my parents were on a road trip that the car just lost power, as if something was choking it, like exhaust wasn't leaving the engine. Since they were 7-8 hours away in some little town, getting parts and all was impossible without them staying there for a day or 2, mechanic took the 3rd cat off, said it was plugged and that the best and fastest way to get them on the road was to just drill it out, so he did, check engine light wasn't on, car seemed fine.
Now I have that same code again. I read 10-20 threads about this and it seems that the popular way about going to fix this is 02 sensors. Checking spark plugs is also a plus. I was thinking of seafoaming first as it's time for an oil change anyway, hoping that would maybe fix it (doubt it tho). This is my new DD and gas consumption is pretty bad on this car, I am guessing it's due to this check engine lights.
Is going through 02 sensor replacements and spark plug replacement a waste of time considering that the 3rd cat is just drilled through? Or is it a good idea to get a test pipe and just take the 3rd cat off all together?
Now what are the exact codes? because a p420 is different from a P013x O2 sensor code. Something with a Bank 1/2 sensor code is a 02 code.
Well considering the 2nd gen TL ONLY has 1 cat either someone misunderstood the mechanic or he took your parents for a ride. Also drilling out the cat would result in a CEL light being on.
Now what are the exact codes? because a p420 is different from a P013x O2 sensor code. Something with a Bank 1/2 sensor code is a 02 code.
Now what are the exact codes? because a p420 is different from a P013x O2 sensor code. Something with a Bank 1/2 sensor code is a 02 code.
The code my friend is getting for a reader he has is P420 catalyst eff. below threshold Bank 1. I think that's all it says, I will check today again after work. He cleared the CEL but it came back on a few hours later.
So drilling out the cat is the cause of CEL (before it was because the CAT was plugged, and now because it's drilled), replacing sensors won't do anything then correct?
Also does anyone know if a cat from V6 accord 6th gen can be used on a TL? I can maybe look for a used cat, but getting used parts for a 2G tl is pretty hard where as there are a million accords around. Thanks for the help
Last edited by myron; Sep 26, 2011 at 12:58 PM.
I cleaned my egr port and did the update.
Still randomly got the codes for: egr, insufficient lift and catalytic converter below threshold.
Both due to the egr port issue I have found.
Run a can of seafoam monthly after the egr clean and update and the light will stay off.
I am nearing 200 thou and pretty familiar with this issue..
Go to your trusted local shop and review as they should be aware of the issue and fix(es).
it is so true that the code are clues and not always point to the real problem!
Still randomly got the codes for: egr, insufficient lift and catalytic converter below threshold.
Both due to the egr port issue I have found.
Run a can of seafoam monthly after the egr clean and update and the light will stay off.
I am nearing 200 thou and pretty familiar with this issue..
Go to your trusted local shop and review as they should be aware of the issue and fix(es).
it is so true that the code are clues and not always point to the real problem!
i cleaned EGR port and change EGR valve. also, cleaned exhaust manifold. aside from that i also cleaned crankcase by using seafoam. but still i get the code p0401 again and again. now, have no more option left. can anyone please tell me if this issue had happened to them and can solve it. thank you
did you remove the intake (not exhaust) manifold to clean the entire length of the egr passage inside the manifold - to the port??
rare is the failure of the actual egr valve- just clogged ports
Good vac supply to the egr valve?
when you cleaned the crankcase- was it by 1/2 can seafoam in oil and driven 30 minutes or more- then change oil and filter? good to do but wont fix an egr code
Are you resetting the ECU after work performed?
easy way is remove the CLOCK fuse on passenger end of dash or lower foot kick panel
leave out for 1 minute then reinsert fully
that is the secret backup power to ecu = clears codes and forces a self test of all systems
rare is the failure of the actual egr valve- just clogged ports
Good vac supply to the egr valve?
when you cleaned the crankcase- was it by 1/2 can seafoam in oil and driven 30 minutes or more- then change oil and filter? good to do but wont fix an egr code
Are you resetting the ECU after work performed?
easy way is remove the CLOCK fuse on passenger end of dash or lower foot kick panel
leave out for 1 minute then reinsert fully
that is the secret backup power to ecu = clears codes and forces a self test of all systems
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