The Acura Dealer told me that when they hooked up the computer to my car it came back saying that it needs:

egr valve $332 (which I had done last year?)

cat. converter (w/nuts gasketes and shields) $1102

&

evap caniseter and valve $246

Now just because the pc came back with those codes doesnt mean I have to fix BOTH right, cant fixing one fix the other? Obviously fixing the cheaper first. Check engine light wont go off.

 

Anyone else ever come back with those codes? I just want to get the check engine light off and get it inspected for as cheap as possible. Car runs and drives fine now as is anyways!

 

EGR valve I think can be done by you, for free, or maybe the like $5 it costs for engine cleaner stuff. The cat (if it really needs to be replaced) can be bought from a vendor here for like $300 for a high-performance one. The last thing I have no clue what it is... I'd let someone else chime in on the subject.

 

Good news so far!

 

The EGR may not be the valve its self. perhaps there is a clogged passageway that can be cleaned out.

Catalytic converter may be replaceable with aftermarket depending on what state you live in. Some states such as Calif. require OE cat.

 

Ca does not require an OE cat- it has to be the same type- obd type 1 or 2 or something like that, BUT you can get the good aftermarket one for Excelerate and it will pass- as long as it has a CARB approval- the Calirfornia air resorce board approval stamp/label spec

More often- as swalch says- its the EGR ports inside the intake manifold get plugged with carbon - you must remove the manifold and clean it- about 2 hours DIY
If you have over 70k miles your car may need this--rarely does the valve itself fail

Evap cannister- do you fill the gas tank above the first shutoff click at the pump?
That can cause gas to enter the charcoal evap cannister and saturate/plug it- result= wont pass smog
See junkyards- now called auto disamantler/recycler yards for that part- easy install next to engine

If you plugged the evap, and the cat is gone!!-- how many miles do you have anyway???

After those replacements you will need to drive the car to clean out the residue- Seafoam the gas and intake manifold to speed the process
You will also want to do the `reset for emissions test`- its a specific driving protocol for about 45 minutes to force a fast relearn to the ECU
when you reset the Check light- and try to get tested immediatly- the engine computer tells the smog computer there is not suffiecient miles to know if there is a smog problem.
The car rats you out!! some people try to clear a cel and get a smog test without the car being fixed~
See the online-gen2 TL manual, if yours doesnt have a section on the drive speeds and times

You can go to smog shop for a `pretest` for $25 most smog shops - they will do the visual and roller wheels test- tell you if its good to pass or not
They cannot legally dianose--thats a different fee-
but its better to pretest than to Fail!

 

I had to replace the cats on my minivan which were nearly $1100 EACH from the dealer, through this place I got them both shipped to my door for just under $500. I recommended checking them out real quick and Good Luck!http://www.catalyticconverterwarehou...CPD7S2GM1BIL40

 

like I said, have a local muffler shop inspect the cat and confirm its need
Then see what they sell- In states with smog laws and test- the muffler shops are now highly regulated and will get the correct unit for your ride.
Some may be very expensive, the TL is able to use a few reasonably priced aftermarket cats and be smog legal still!

 

what codes were they did they tell u?

 

I bet you threw a P1456 or P1457. Leak Detected In EVAP Control System, Leak Detected In EVAP Control System. I have the very same problem and that stupid check engine light drives me nuts. The car runs fine. After disconecting the battery it will go away, but always comes back. There is a vaccum test the dealer can perform to see if its the evap canister before jumping the gun and replacing it. I'll try to find the directions for this, doesnt look too tough. If your worried about passing emisions you can just stop a block before the testing center and disconnect and then reconnect the battery. Just drive slow to the testing center. Thats what i did, worked in chicago.

 

That does not work on any smog test where the hook up to the cars code port- and put the wheels on a dyno type roller and run the car

The TL has a special signal it sends out to teh code reader when the battery has been disconnected with a CEL showing= Insufficient Data
You have to do a special 45 minute drive or drive it a month to let the computer relearn and assure itself that all is well- Only then will it allow itself to be smog tested
Some people were trying to beat the system and clear the light and get it checked--but not many states are that loose now

 

brother that is the same thing my mechanic buddy at the dealership i was working at told me, BUT i reset the ecu at work and drove like an old man to the testing place, maybe 10miles away. they hooked the thing up to that port between the seat heaters and i cant remember if they put in on the rollers or not. BUT i passed!! and then i went on the hwy and gunned it and then the stinkin light came back on. true story no bs, maybe 3-4 years ago

 

I'm so glad they did away with the VET (Vehicle Emissions Testing) here. They did not connect anything to the OBD ports tho.