so, after my little fuck up (sry but im really pissed right now and cant help it) half my radio doesnt work, aftermarket radio and not worried about that, but i was listening to the radio and all of a sudden the stops.

heres the thing, batt is good and fully charged, i have power to the starter and to the fuse box thats under the hood. ground wire have .2-.3 ohms of resistance, so those are good. i even added another ground from the engine to the batt. just for piece of mine.

i have no power inside teh car. remote functions dont work on teh car, can has no lights working inside/outside, no radio, no ignition. all fuse inside the car are good but dont get any power.

i have no fuckin clue what could be the problem. i need major help NOWWWW. cant work on my cl bc need a car everyday and the POS tl is in the garage.

 

Insurance job $? free, just let me know lol

 

hahaha. every time i see my tl i think of a way of totaling it.

 

There is a 120A fuse in the under hood fuse/relay box. Check it.

 

its good. all fuses under teh hood are good and have power. its everything after the firewall.

 

burnt wire harness?

 

not that i can tell and i ripped most of the tape and loom off.

 

What happened to cause all this? What wires were you working with?

Electrical Manual

 

i hit something in teh road then a curb. working on my suspension. half my radio buttons after the hit didnt work. listening to to radio and working on the suspension, all of a sudden radio stops. so i thought my batt went low. charged it up. and no go. cleaned the batt terminals and post then had power for a few min. continued working on the suspension and again went dead and never came on. i checked the basics and then some. but still no luck

 

Kinda sounds like a fuse that's going out / intermittently conducting. It might look fine but throw a meter at it to be sure the resistance is low.

 

i used teh meter everywhere. and do noting inside teh car bc i got no power going inside teh car.

 

Did you trace the wires fro the under hood fuse panel to the cabin and test inside the car?

 

theirs so many small wires going from the fuse panel to the cab. so im lost at that. ill look at it tomorrow

dudeinatl. i dont fuck around with files like that, have no idea what to do once the file saves on my comp. i have a service manual but on my comp. and thats in the basement and my cars in the garage.

 

use winrar to open that file. its just like a zip file but rar's are more compressed

 

im not into all of this computer stuff

 

Just for you...

Electrical Troubleshooting Manual (zipfile)

Open up 2T9903Content.pdf and jump to the fuses page.

 

so if i give the clock back up fuse power i get power inside teh car, like i should. but when i try to start the car. it blows the power probes circuit breaker. and if i give the fuse power and then take away power. the voltage slowly drops. about 1v a sec. so i want to say i got a short somewhere. but dont know where. any help?

 

for shit and giggles try a different battery maybe yours is showing good but its not.Ive had this problem with autozone,advanced auto and pepboys batterys.if its your battery get a interstate or better if so they come with warrentys.ive gone crazy a couple times on cars coming in to my shop for no start problems ended up be a battery

 

Read my mind. I was thinking about that possibility too...battery could be internally bad. Might be able to put out 12 volts at no load but once a surge of current starts flowing it craps out.

About the voltage dropping a volt a second, that's probably normal...probably just some capacitor discharging. Doesn't rule out that you don't have a short somewhere though.

 

i tried even with a jump and a charger on it. no go. ill try my cl-s batt tomorrow. but highly doubt thats the problem

 

when u try staring the car it blows the clock/ back up fuse?

 

if thats the case then you could possibly have a short in:
Gauge Assembly
Keyless Entry Receiver
Clock
Radiator Fan Control Module
Drivers Multiplex Control Unit
Climate Control
PCM
Door Multiplex Control Unit
Security Indicator
Driving Position Memory Switch

theres a whole lot connected in that one circuit. what i would do is disconnect the clock, climate control, driving position memory switch, security indicator, gauges and keyless entry receiver put the fuse back in and see if it pops again. if not u narrowed it down to those components. if it does then u gotta disconnect the other stuff except the pcm and if all else fails you could have a shorted out pcm or bad multiplex.

 

it blows the door light/ acc light fuse. just above the clock back up. i disconnected the radio, gauges, ac shit, clock and still no power.

 

I assume you've thoroughly examined any wiring near this suspension trauma, right-

 

this sound really weird, i wonder if your ecu took a shit. your ground sounds good, all fuses sound good, even if a wire got cut its not going to kill everything. there could be a loose wire under the dash thats in front of a fuse that touched the frame of the car and fried something, even though it didnt blow a fuse. see if there is anyway to test your ecu. doesnt that control everything?

 

are you getting at least 13.5V at the battery? if not might want a new one, 12V or anything below 13.25 is a bad battery.

is there a fuseable link in the wiring under the car? might want to check that out, something under the car has to be cut/shorted, you hit something and then it started have electrical issues, so get under the car and look very closely.

 

Only thing electrical by the front suspension is the wheel speed sensor. And that looks good. A good batt is 12.75 or so I'm at 12.5. Gonna swap batts but I'm positive its not a battery problem. No fuseable link under the car. But ill check for any wires that their might be

 

Have you verified continuity from the underhood junction box to the in-cabin fuse boxes? Isn't clear to me based on your previous posts.

So fuse #54 at the hood junction box is a 40amp that routes to fuses #9,10,11,12,13 in the passenger fuse box:

At the underhood box it's a 7-pin light green connector, through a yellow wire, and then to the 18 pin light green connector that connects to the passenger fuse box. Pin 5 of that connector is what fuse #54 is connected to; so disconnect that connector & make sure pin 5 is at battery voltage.

Now if you're getting good voltage at that pin, that means fuses 9-13 should be getting power too. Remove all those fuses, then try to check each fuse cavity/connector so that at least one of the leads has battery power.

For reference:
#9 (Accessory power socket relay, Audio unit, Front accessory power socket, Rear accessory power socket, Stereo amplifier)
#10 (DRL control unit (Canada), Navigation display unit, Navigation relay (’99), Navigation unit)
#11 (Ceiling light, Driver’s and front passenger’s door courtesy light, Passenger’s multiplex control unit, Trunk lid opener maint, Power seat control unit (’02-’03), Spotlights, Trunk light)
#12 (Passenger’s multiplex control unit, Trunk lid opener main)
#13 (Climate control unit, Clock (Except Navigation), Driver’s door and passenger’s multiplex control unit, Driving position memory switch (’02-’03), Gauge assembly, Keyless receiver unit (’02-’03), PCM (VBU), Radiator fan control module (’02-’03), Security indicator)

Try starting the car with only fuse #13 (out of 9-13) inserted & see what happens. If that's good, then you know the others are the problem. Hopefully you can find out what fuse the problem is on, then go to a circuit/device level.

 

ill work on the tl later on today and check otu what u said. but im getting no power anywhere in teh cab. with a test light no fuses light up

 

didnt have time to work on the tl. busy with other cars and my legal shit

 

I had an issue the other day with my cl. I started driving and everything was fine. First thing I noticed was the radio started cutting out. Then I noticed the guages were cutting in and out. After some time i lost all electronic function in the cabin driving lights etc. I pulled in a gas station and got some gas and couldnt start the car. I jumped it and drove to Acura and had them test battery and that was my issue. Yours sounds more complicated tho. No issues since I replaced it.

 

ill swap the batteries tomorrow.

 

Well i had another incident driving home from getting car tinted. I starting losing all electrical power again and was driving home in the dark with no brake or headlights. I was 2 miles from my house when the car died and i had to get strangers to push it out of the road. it was stuck in the middle of the road with no way of turning lights on in the dark with no street lights in sight. I thought for sure my cl was a goner from a rear end collision. I opened the hood and looked closer at the alternator and noticed the plug wasnt connected from when the shop installed my headers they unplugged and never reconnected. I replaced my battery at Acura and even kept asking them if they thought it was the alternator. They said no and replaced battery. Wish I would have looked closer myself and all this hassle plus spending 100 on a battery could have been avoided All these hassles from modding are making me think twice about doing more work.

 

i took out the system and part of it was a power wire running from the alternator. so i know that thats hooked up good. also swapped batteries and no change. batt from the tl went into the cl and cl started right up and have no problems with it. tl is still dead. tomorrow im gonna do what dudeinatl said and will tell u how it goes

 

same exact thing happened to me when I got my headers installed

 

hmm is the alternator functioning properly.

 

Not sure. If I have a spare one ill swap it out

 

problem solved. a bad connection from the batt terminal connector the the wire. if u move the wire it would connect and all seems fine but then u touch it and it would disconnect and then id have no power.

 

Gad dayum..so simple yet huge problems from it. I hate anything electric for that reason. Blown fuses yaddayadda are a pain in the butt to find sometimes..I had a blown fuse once that put me in limp mode til I finally figured it out

 

yup. i was pissed that it was so simple. but its all good now.