SNACKMAN the Aisin kit contains all oem parts that the car comes with from the factory I believe. They are just as good or better. Buying all new Honda parts directly from the dealer is up to you but your just wasting your money on the same parts as they are severely marked up.

 

AISIN is the OEM Supplier... You are getting the original parts with no Honda Logo on them.

 

No one cares when the car is this old. Save the money and spend the savings on changing your transmission fluid. The auto parts industry is a crazy one... just because the name is different does not mean they came out of the same factory. For example, I bought non-oem motor mounts as I'm doing the work myself and with the savings I can replace them 3-4x as often.

 

*pick quality parts but oem isn't needed when it comes to resale imo... more important its well maintained.

 

My experience with aftermarket mounts on my RL is that I get way more vibrations when engine is idle..... and I do not like that, as soon as I put in original Acura mounts, the vibrations went away....
I agree with you to some degree, but for me spending a little more on Acura Parts and not having to worry for another 150,000km is peace of mind. I drive my car everyday and put lots of mileage on it.

 

another pretty good J35 timing belt repalcement video -

 

That is a helpful video, to go with this thread. Local friends with Honda/Acura cars & vans seem to seek me out for help with the timing belt change, so I just went ahead and bought more tools, all oriented around the crank pulley bolt:

- 19mm impact rated deep well socket, 3/4" drive
- 3/4" drive 16-inch extension
- 3/4" drive male to 1" drive female adapter
- 1" drive breaker bar, 42" long.

I've been using the 1,000 ft-lb. capacity torque multiplier quite a bit on that crank bolt, but I have the room to wrench using a big breaker bar, so I'll give that a try on the next job.

OF

 

I just finished this job on my 03 TL. Long and tedious but not technically difficult. The only problems were the crank bolt and lining up the timing marks. I finally had to give up and buy the crank holder to break the bolt loose. It took 8 tries to get the the timing belt lined up on all sprockets. I had never done a V engine timing belt before. This was good practice for when I get the Ferrari.

 

Also review the A-122 thread for more good information - The Acura / Honda V6 J series engines timing belt replacement procedures are very similar for all models .-

https://acurazine.com/forums/third-g...*pics*-784622/


Another good video- https://youtu.be/ZT-ZMNhOT-M


Use Honda OEM or Aisin TB Kit parts only.

 

Thanks to the OP for a great DIY. My son's 99 TL has been experiencing an overheating problem. After ruling out everything else, I decided it had to be the water pump. It shouldn't be, the dealer we bought it from replaced the timing belt and water pump 2 years and 25k miles ago. After getting the pulley and covers off, there's two streaks below the WP where coolant has been running down. I bought the full Aisin kit on Amazon. Might as well replace everything and know I've got decent parts in there. With the WP failing this soon, I could see the tensioner puking anytime.

I'd give it a 5/10 on the PITA scale. A couple more inches of room would drop it to a 3/10. Makes me really appreciate my Audi

 

Anyone know what happened to the pictures?

 

Welcome to AZine, MTBubba.

Photobucket seems to have started some idiotic limitation on third party hosting of images.

 

Yeah I tried the cheap engine mounts and was very disappointed.

 

I transferred the position of the timing marks to my old belt, then to the new belt (and counted teeth to double check), made reinstall very easy.

 

(Cross posted from my feedback on ETG's site)
The job went perfectly (I used the crank-bolt "trifecta"; PBsoak/heat/weighted-impact-socket*). Props to EricTheCarGuy for the triple-check TAUT-front/SLACK-rear; I've done BMW's, but this was more "sneaky"...despite being locked all around when reinstalling, the heads remained spot-on, but the crank 'looked a half-tooth' off: In fact, getting the front of the belt extra taut, allowed me to nudge back the crank - pipe wrench with plugs out works great - and DEAD ON. As good as ETG's video <for fee> was, the BundysGarage YouTube was equally as good (...I was happy to support Eric, however, for the few bucks to have a secondary reference...).

A couple of other hints: Get a bazillion wobble and flex extension 1/4" for the 10mm rear t/b covers (a real clearance P.I.T.A.); at least on this Accord, it required micro-fingers. Also, suggest you jot down disassembly order, being mindful of when the engine-mount block occurs. Don't try this after the covers, as its lip lies beneath the covers' seals...oops.

*the reference to the weighted socket (used only with a modest electric impact wrench) was this: To "simulate" the Lisle 'torque-enhancing' socket, I spun on a spool of lead solder to my 19mm impact. This gave it enough oooph to easily take off the nut, when the un-enhanced socket did not. TaDa!

 

.Thanks for the write up man.... this is going to help alot. Just noticed a oil leak by my Crank of my 05 TL. Its coating my whole oil pan. My timing case is marked 107k on 3/13.
My TL is at 181 now. Needless to say, shes due! I PUT 1k into her already including coilovers and CAI! NEED to fix asap and this video is going to help. Thanks dwed!

 

Oil around the crank might mean a VTEC solenoid seal needs replacing (can be done without a TB change) or an oil pump seal leak (do it with the TB change) or front seal leak (do it with the TB Change). Worth spending some time figuring it out before diving in.

 

Thank you for giving such detailed steps, it is of great use to me.