Thanks!
Maybe mods cam edit first post with link to the archive?

:P

 

Thanks, "pics are worth a thousand words!"

 

Thanks all for this great DIY. I'll be tackling this job soon and trunk mounted my battery long ago. That being said, I dont have the battery tie down tool anymore. fsttyms1, how did you relieve tension on the belt without the tool? I'd rather know now before I tear everything apart.

 

with the loss of hondaacuraworld,,,one of our new vendors is wholesalepartsguy- santa rosa Ca acura dealer doing the hookup~
special package now on timing belt-water pump and all needed tensioners and pullies and both belts
295$ shipped- thats a score

PM him if reading past 3/10 to see if ziner special is still valid

 

the special 'Honda crank pulley removal tool" is from kragen/oreillys
only on the website 20 bucks, holds pulley thru designed holes and pins, makes removal painless

this is a good time to install a lightweight crank pulley too- remove 8 pounds- install 2 ,

 

Loosen the one timing belt idler pulley bolt, then Remove one of the 2 bolts that hold it on, then loosen the other and it swings out of place and takes the tension off.

 

Ah, makes perfect sense, thanks man!

 

Im going to be doing this too in a few weeks just gotta make sure i have all the parts before hand. Fun times awaits.

 

No Kragen/O'Reilly stores where I live, just O'Reilly who does not sell . It looks that I will have to buy one online from K/O or Amazon -

 

Available at a few other places too for in that price range . Search for- Powerbuilt 648796

 

I know its best to use OEM antifreeze but what would u say if I use Prestone or sumthin like that instead?

 

I think other brand of coolant should be okay as long as it is compatible. I personally will be getting prestone as well. Some people said it could cause problem to the seals, so that is up to you.

 

oh alright....thanx

 

OK, so pulled everything apart and got to the crank bolt and no go. I think I am cursed with this job because the last two times I started I wasnt able to finish. I'm just saying screw it and I'm going to take it somewhere that can do it with my parts and do the valve adjustment too. Anyone had a good experience with a 105k service in the Baltimore/DC area?

 

I'd also like to know any one with a good experience with timing belt service in NoVa/DC area or any shop with reasonable price for it... i can't afford the stealership service charge and I've attempted this on my previous AV6 and couldn't finish it either so I am not going to try again..

 

Where'd you guys get the crank pulley tool from if not the net? Readily available at local stores like AutoZone/Advance/O'Reillys/etc...? Don't show up on their sites but it could be a behind-the-counter thing.

I see Oreilly has a listing but it looks like one of those things they have listed but won't find in any of their physical stores.

 

oreillys is kragen and last year you could buy it on www.kragen.com
worth a try
or internet search- honda pulley tool

look for a small local shop to do the labor for you if giving up- ask how many their tech has done on a TL
It takes time to do the first time,,learning curve, and a local ziner who has experience is the thing to find
Look in the local Meets section for help

Some honda dealers in the northeast have been running a special that accepted TLs from ziners - barely more than wholesale parts cost for whole job..400??
see gen3 threads for it

 

Don't have a problem with the internet, I just like being able to run down to a physical place to buy parts.

I figure I'll give the crank pulley bolt a go & if I fail, just head to a shop.

Doesn't look like a hard job, but having the correct tools is critical.

 

Yeah, I may give it one more go. I was pissed because the starter method worked on the wife's car. The valve adjustment is next and I'm not sure if I want to try that myself.

 

I've done numerous timing belt and water pump jobs on honda's and the crank pulley use to always be a issue for me, so i went and bought the strongest impact wrench I could find locally, and I haven't had a problem since! For anyone wondering what impact I bought I bought an Ingersoll Rand 2135Ti impact which has 1000ft-lbs torque rating

http://www.mysears.com/Ingersoll-Ran...ws?tab=details

 

my brother brought over his compressor and air tools and damn, that couldn't get the bolt off, so like others have recommended i went on ebay, i bought the honda crank pulley holder tool and still had quite a time with it, i ended up having to wedge one rachet against the pallet the engine is sitting on, and use a hydraulic jack handle (about 4 feet long) to get leverage to break the torque on that sucker. i'll tackle the actual change of the other stuff another day. it got too dark to finish.

 

Instead of buying the crank pulley tool for 25-35 bucks, might be worth it to go to an indy shop & have them crack it loose for 15 or 20 bucks, but tighten it enough so that it stays secure while driving. Do the job at home, and jimmy something up to tighten the bolt back without it spinning.

That's what I'm planning on doing based on all these stories about that crank bolt being a pain.

 

i'm going to be doing this project on a few engines so i might as well have bought the tool plus this engine is sitting on a pallet and i do not have a truck yet, so it's not going anywhere.

my brother said that sometimes at cadillac if they can't get the crank bolt loose, they simply wedge the rachet in with something and start the car haha

 

with the engine in the car- you can use a socket on breaker bar wedged against the ground and tap tap tap the starter- bam!! its loose

otherwise get the honda pulley removal tool, kragen.com used to have it- havnt ckd since name change to oreillys
used to cost 25 bucks and is worth it many times over
you can even resell it!

to tighten bolt- stick a prybar into the flywheel teeth via the inspection cover under trans/eng connection- that will hold it tight so you can tighten
torque is critical 181 foot pounds!
couple of ways to measure it- see diy thread on lightweight crank pulley

 

nice write up, thanks!

 

great write up. i did this job on a 2002 tl inc. all seals,wp,auto tensioner,pulleys etc. i had auto zone order the pulley tool for me. my question is if the camshaft marks are lined up but the crank ends up 1 tooth off will this cause bent valves? waiting for a code scanner before i tear it down again. car starts right up but idles up to 2k then down to 1k and keeps repeating then check engine light comes on

 

CEL is probably P0505 - idle control failure. Make sure you bleed the cooling system completely, if there's any air in the cooling system it will cause problems with the IAC valve.

 

thats what i thought it was doing was trying to bleed itself

 

When I had my oil and trans fluid changed I was told my timing belt was due (good luck getting a bottle jack under this car). I'm at 75000km? Does that sound about right?

 

I've got a 2135ti that I've been using for years with no problem, but in the past year or so I've run into some that are too tough for it. Now I've got the 3/4' version ir2141. I still try the 2135, but if it doesn't come off in 15seconds, out comes the big gun. At first I worried about breaking the damn bolt off, but it hasn't happened yet. As you are probably aware, you need good air pressure and volume for either of these wrenches.

 

This might have been answered already but I didn't read through the whole thing... the tensioner rarely needs replacement, it is heavy-duty and extremely sturdy. So 99% of the time you can re-use it.

To do so, you still need to take it out. You need to compress it so the hole in the protruding little piston lines up with the holes in the housing, so you can stick a pin back in there (for a pin you can simply use a small drill bit, it's hard enough that it won't bend and you'll be able to pull it out)
To compress the tensioner just put it in a vice. However, and this is very important: do not compress it too fast. You need to do it little by little, very slowly. Should take you at least 2-3 minutes. Otherwise you can damage it internally.
Hope this clarifies things and saves some people out there some $

 

Just a fyi, the 1999 tl's have a different tensioner.

 

Hm, I've only worked on a 2000 and 01.

 

Yeah, i was following the diy write up on here and ordered a 2000+ tensioner without knowing it was different. After taking apart everything, i found it it was different and wouldnt work.

 

What do you guys think about this kit here?

Is it worth it? They are also selling an OEM hydraulic tensioner for $100.00

 

Hmm- NO CHINA is struck out... does that mean China sourced-

 

From the brands listed, it seems that they are actually using Honda OE parts. You can get the hydraulic tensioner from your local Acura dealer for about the same price. I wouldn't buy it until inspecting your current one for leaks. I ended up having to buy it because mine showed signs of leaking fluid.

EDIT: I just checked out rockauto.com and you can get everything from Gates (Excellent quality aftermarket parts), the crank/cam seals from Fel-Pro (don't really need those, my car is leak free on entire engine) for $172.87 shipped to Toronto, Canada. This is assuming you're still in Toronto. You save quite a bit and you still get premium quality parts, better than OE in my opinion. They also have the hydraulic adjuster for $55 if you want to buy it anyways. Check that site out, I've purchased a few things there and they have yet to disappoint.

 

http://www.amazon.com/Powerbuilt-648.../dp/B0000TMLWQ

has the powerbuilt tool for $24.99 and free shipping for any order over $25

 

Getting ready to do this for my 2001 TL and have a question.

Is the crank pully bolt a normal lefty-loosy, righty-tighty type or the reverse? I did a timing belt replacement on my Integra many years ago and the bolt was reverse.

 

It's normal.