jjashaa made a DIY for the Load Equalizer with the Resistors.
Here's the link : https://acurazine.com/forums/showthread.php?t=181447

This is just an alternative route you could go to solve your LED issue. I ordered a Load Equalizer (Flasher) from SuperBrightLED.com. The item # was CF13JL-02.

This is the Flasher:



1. With this type of flasher you have to take off the cover in order for it to fit. I did that by using a small flat head screw driver to pry it off.



This is how it looks after you get the cover off:



2. Take off the cover to the fuse panel on the driver side.



3. Unscrew the screw where i circled and slowy pull off the panel.



4. After you get the panel off, carefully disconnect the harness to the dimmer.



5. Once you get that done you'll be able to see the flasher. It might be a pain in the ass to get out, but you'll evensually get it out.



6. After you get the old flasher out, simply replace it with the new one.



Your Flashers should blink at a normal rate now.

 

keep us updated with the mod. did it work for your and did u have leds both in the front and the rear?

 

I have LEDs both front and back. Works fine. IMO i think its a easier mod than the resistors.

 

I bought the flasher module and just made 3 short wire extensions with the right connectors at the ends. One side of the wire would connect to the flasher, the other side would connect to the fuse/relay box. The blink timing is fine. But I have one issue and haven't been able to figure out if it's just a bad flasher module or what..... when my headlights/parking lights are on, my key fob will NOT lock/unlock any of the doors, even the trunk. When the lights auto-off, lock/unlock works just fine. Did you encounter this at all? Do I just have a bad flasher?

Jung

 

Great write up, what LEDs are you running? I've been thinking about swapping out my turn signals and parking lights with LEDs for a while. Also if you could post pics that would be great.

 

Does this unit get hot like a load resistor? If so, I'd try to wrap up some of those exposed electrical components with electrical tape or something like that. Not only will it protect against shorts, but you don't want the surrounding wires to melt.

 

I didnt encounter that, you may just have a bad flasher. Other then that i dont see what else could be the problem.

I have 12LED White turnsignals in the front and 24LED Red turnsignals in the rear from SuperBrightLEDs.com. I use to have LEDs from Superlumination.com but they didnt seem as White so i would suggest you get the ones from SuperBrightLEDs.com if you were thinking of getting white. I'll try to take some pics later on in the week.

Honestly i dont know if the it gets hot like the resistors but im thinking i shouldnt because its flasher unit. But if anything after you put the new flasher in you can place the cover to the flasher over it to protect the wires around it. Thats what i did.

 

Have you tried regular (incandescent) bulbs with this flasher? I know the flasher is supposed to be able to work with both regular bulbs and LED bulbs, but I would like to know if its been tested and proven to work.

 

It works the same as if you had you the stock flasher with regular bulbs.

 

Sorry for all of the questions, but I just have one more. It's not really a big deal, but I am just curious. On the website it says that some of the flasher units don't produce the clicking sound that normally occurs when the lights are flashing. Does your flasher still make the clicking sounds when the turn signals are on?

 

^^^ I'd like to know as well. This is what this board is all about. I'm not really tech savvy, but what is the difference between this and the resistors in technical terms(how they work)? What are the pros and cons of each? Are flashers just newer than resistors?...cuz it seems way easier... why would people choose one over the other?

 

Yes, the flasher i have still makes the clicking sound.

Im not tech savvy either, therefore i honestly dont know the difference between the flasher and resistor. The reason why i bought the flasher instead of the resistor is because of the easy install. Maybe other members with the flasher might know. I would like to know as well.

 

I just received the flasher unit I ordered from Autolumination.com, which has the same part number as the one from superbrightleds, and my PCB is glued to the outer shell. I had to cut off the outer shell before I saw that it was glued. Just FYI to others buying this...

 

Just installed mine a couple days ago. That was easy!!! Something about the clicking sound is a bit different than stock, but it's minor enough that I can't even pinpoint it. Thanks to OP for an alternate to resistors!

 

Slakerz, did you take off the cover when you installed it?

 

Yeah, I took the cover off without a problem. Just wrapped it with some electrical tape and good to go. Ghetto fabulous, but easy.

 

I guess mine was the only one glued together ...

But I installed mine yesterday

I'll take a vid of my turn signals later today.

BTW when you have LED turns without the flasher, we already know that it will hyper blink. However, I found out that when you have LED turns and you put the hazards on, they flash normally. When I first installed my turns w/o the flasher I put on my hazards to see if they were working and I was surprised that they were flashing normally. I thought maybe the bulbs had resistors built into them or something. But then I though to check each bulb individually, and sure enough they hyper blinked. But all is good now with the flasher unit!

 

I was bored so I took a couple quick vids of my LED turn signals. Amber in front, red in rear. The bulbs are these (11 Super-Power Wide Angle High Flux LEDS from autolumination.com):




http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=epL-Bgi3r2k

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DvekTZOrQY4

 

Looking good AMGala, i was thinking of getting those bulbs.

I just picked these up the other day for the front. They're pretty bright.

 

Are those from superbrightleds?

 

Nope, just picked them up at the shop i got my tint done.