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I started to remove the front suspension parts and driveshaft on my 2002 TLs. I am replacing the bearings, struts, and the torque converter so I need to get the transmission out. After getting the lower ball joint off I pulled off the driveshaft and the inner boot moved down the shaft. The picture is below, the area of concern is the boot near the top of the photo the end that goes into the transmission. My question is how to get it back. I tried pulling on the boot but wasn't able to get it back to the original position. Has anyone had this happen before and if so how did you fix it? The boot is not torn but it is old. If I have to replace the boot how difficult is it to remove one end or the other to slide in a new boot? Can you use a worm or hose clamp instead of a metal band (don't have the band tool)? You can see the s
Looks like the boot is too old to go back were it belongs; not enough flexibility to get it back where it belongs (over the hump on the shaft). After looking around it seems simple to replace but a factory boot requires I take it apart and the cost is about $35. An aftermarket (Dorman) boot I can basically glue it together around the unit once I cut off the old one and put new grease inside. This is about $25. The other option is replacing the axle with a new aftermarket unit such as:
1. https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo...t=2288&jsn=798 or
2. https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo...t=2288&jsn=799
So what is your opinions on either using a repair boot (https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo...t=2284&jsn=809) or getting an aftermarket axle? The current axles have about 180K on them.
All the threads I have found are about 10 years old and I am sure things have changed with quality etc. for these aftermarket parts. I also don't see a dynamic damper on the aftermarket units, maybe they are better balanced?
Last edited by Jon M; 05-09-2022 at 04:38 PM.
Reason: added
Thoiboi, Thank you the response. I am leaning toward replacing the boot. Everything feels ok on the shaft. I pulled the half shaft today and I was wondering how full of grease the bearing side should be, there is room between the seal and bearing that is empty. The bearing moves nicely right now I don't feel any binding or grit. Should I and some CV grease?
If you're working on getting ball joints and bearings pressed, you can add that intermediate shaft's bearings to the job; it's affordable and if you have the shaft out why not?
It's also probably the easiest bearing (aside from the rear wheel hubs which require no press) to replace.
The inboard joint/boot on the CV shaft is quite simple; buy the new boot/grease/band and update. The oem driveshaft is far superior than anything I've seen on rockauto.
One thing is I am learning more each day. Engine work is fine, but always did the bare minimum on suspension and transmission as I always needed the car right away and work interfered with doing it myself. Now however I can. Probably a good to go ahead and replace it since I have it out. I will look into the bearing. I know the one for the wheel hub is an NSK that was much cheaper from Rockauto. I wonder how many magnets they have, I have a good collection now.
I purchased bushing and bearing press kits; have 2 other vehicles with 500k on one and 310k on the other, so I will need them.
The torque converter replacement has turned into a major job. Basically the entire front end, motor mounts, brakes, etc. etc. Basically everything I needed to remove to get the transmission out.
Hey Jon, glad you got some pics in; yes major work relatively speaking. It could be worse; there could be rebuilding of transmission internals involved!
By the way; if your transmission fluid is indeed the black fluid I see in the drip pan, I would certainly question the health of the unit and keep your eye out for a BAYA transmission from and 2006-3007 Accord V6.
are you still considering work on ball joints/bushings?
Whitetiger5, I think I could rebuild the transmission. I looked at it a little. It turns out a neighbor 3 houses down (who I never met before) walked up yesterday and said he wanted to meet the person who had the cajones to do the transmission on the sloped driveway, turns out he rebuilds transmissions. Anyway before that I looked at a couple of kits and a mod kit that has you make some changes inside the tranny that supposed to fix the issues. I also found out there is a specific transmission manual for the unit.
The fluid is dark, the stuff you see came out from the TC. I am very concerned over it. I haven't seen any blockages or pieces of crud in the pipe filters or screens.
Right now I am replacing the TC, Rear main seal, tranny (did find the rear one separated) and motor mounts and vacuum lines to them, struts, upper control arms with ball joint, changing the bushings in the lower control arms, changing the link stabilizers, wheel bearings, tie rods, wheel hubs, rotors, brake pads, and bushings in the stabilizer bar. Also replacing seals in the AFT heater and the hose for the ATF filter, also found power steering hoses to the cooler need replaced.
So far the hardest thing was trying to get the subframe reinstalled, took me 3 hours of screwing with it before i got it in and I was trying to support and guide the piece in while pumping on my jack with my foot. Really do need two people then it would take about 3 minutes. I put the subframe back in so I can take out the engine support bar and lower the car a bit. I will need to take it out again to put the tranny back in but I want to do the rear motor mount and I am hoping it is easier with the tranny out of the way.
Will need to take apart and rebuilt the intermediate shaft and replace the boot on the inside left CV.
Last edited by Jon M; 05-15-2022 at 01:40 AM.
Reason: Adding
Got the rear motor mount replaced, I do think it was easier with the tranny out but it is still a pain to get to but I would definitely would recommend doing it if you have the tranny out. The old mount was bad ripped at the top. Figured that before since a year or so ago I had to reroute the vacuum line due to a leak going to the motor mount.
I was going to install the rear seal plate and I saw some more Honda bond on the inside edge at the plate bottom area and when removing it a piece broke and fell into the oil pan. There is always a problem. Right now I have the front of the car raised a lot and I will change the oil to see if I can flush it out. I really don't want to remove the oil pan, looks like I would have to take the exhaust off and I really don't want to touch those rusted nuts, If it doesn't come out with the first draining I think I will pour oil into the opening (see pic) and see if I can flush it out. If it doesn't, I would think the oil filter would catch the piece.
Removed the TC from the housing don't know how to get the fluid out probably only drained a quart. i also see about 1/8" thick 4 inch patch of black residue at the bottom of the housing. I am really debating with myself on either rebuilding the tranny with a mod kit or finding a BAYA unit.
05-08-2022, 09:11 PM
