So I inspected my ball joints and driver's right side lower ball joint boot is torn all the way around and other side is not too good either. Now I found a few brands out there Altrom/ultra-8 performance from Napa, an adjustable one from O'Reileys, and Beck and Arnley fro Rockauto.com is the brand from Napa really that bad it says made in Taiwan? Also any info on how to do this job would be helpful. I know you have to remove the rotor,caliper,cv axle,and knuckle and these do have to be pressed in so i was planning on having a shop press them in by removing the control arm. I also notice a recall for lower ball joint on the '96-'98 TL models they prematurely wear out. I have a mechanic with 25 yrs. experience and he's done quite a few jobs for me already and willing to do this cheap but I already purchased the ball joints from Napa should I use them? What do you guys think? What did you quys do?

 

Damn I Guess No One Has Done This?

 

You should be fine w/ a Napa ball joint.

I removed entire knuckle, separated rotor and bearing hub from kuckle (used 2long (~70mm) x 14mm socket size high strength bolts (rear suspension bolts from Accord) and hammer to drive bearing hub from knuckle), and pressed lower BJ out w/ tool from local O'Rielly's, but it was a job. Press Tool (big C-clamp) just barely worked. If you have access to a press in a machine shop, it will be much easier.

good luck

 

Thank You TexasHonda for the feedback not too much good advice around. I noticed you're also in the hondaaccord forum and you seem like you know your sh&^. So does the cv axle need to be removed and if so have you done that job I also need to replace the inner boot for the cv axle any suggestions on where to find one locally without having to wait. Plus ordering parts online is overrated dumb asses can't check things before shipping it out to you.Thanks again.

 

I did this recently using this service bulletin - /tsb/1999/B99-023.pdf. The ball joint kit they list includes two lower ball joints.

rented the ball joint press from my local autozone.

 

-- put www.a c u r a w o r l d.com without the spaces in front of the link above

 

CV axle is not removed, but obviously the axle must be removed from the bearing hub assy. Sometimes the axle shaft is frozen to the hub assembly due to rust and difficult to separate. You will need a brass hammer or some type of tool to push the shaft out of the bearing hub. Some penetrating oil may help.

If you have a damaged boot remove the CV axle by prying the inboard CV joint away from the trans or intermediate support assy. I've had to tap a wedge in between the parts to separate the axle.

Replacing the boot is messy, and the end clip on end of axle shaft can be tricky to remove and install. Boot replacement is a messy job, but worth it if the axle is in good condition.

It would be worth checking w/ Acura to make sure your car is not covered by a recall on the lower BJ's. If it's a recall, Acura will cover the cost of replaement.

good luck

 

Thank you guys for your help and thank you so much for the TSB that is really helpful step by step how much easier than that can it get.

 

You guys I did this yesterday and what a difference there was some play in the lower ball joints fairly small. No noticeable cracking and stress on them but very loose play you don't have to press them in. You simply take the knuckle away from the car put it in a vise and tap out the old ones, then softly tap in the new ones and this is also a good time to replace any torn cv axle boots for that matter. Used napa altrom/ultra 8 performance type ball joints, easier to get a hold of, not a bad set and very inexpensive. The cv axle boot kit was like $12. Everything was fairly easy except one side the hub assembly nut 36 size was really on there, needed an air ratchet to take it off. Also did the differential fluid drain and fill. Let me tell you this was in definite need, stuff was so black and differential was dry-not enough fluid in there.

 

I just took mine appart last night. The boot on mine was torn as well, and while driving it felt like the car wandered a bit. The napa balljoint was $17. I hate buying stuff from my competitors, but none of the brands i have access to even make a balljoint for this car. I wanted a MOOG, but the dont list one for the 96-98s.
The spindle is in the shop right now having the BJ removed. haha, bj... :P

 

soo to get the bottom balljoint off u have to remove the rotor..?? or did u just do that so u have better access to the balljoint.. i was going to rent that tool at O riellys to remove the balljoint..

 

When I was messing with my starter, I noticed my right side drive shaft boot is pretty well torn up. I didn't want to tackle another job yet but now I may do it. Can you simply replace the boot and I suppose fill it with grease?

 

I removed the entire knuckle so yeah I removed the rotor,pads,outer end of cv axle, and hub assembly oh dont forget to take off the abs sensor and unplugging the battery. Be careful not to make the hole for the lower ball joint any bigger than it already is or that would mean replacing the entire knuckle. If you are going to use the press tool and keep everything in place good luck it's gonna be a bit#$.

 

Anyone know if the upper ball joints can be replaced on an 02 TL or does the entire control arm need to be replaced?

Sorry didn't realize I was in the first Generation section

 

I show the upper balljoint as a seperate part for the 02.

I got my lower balljoint all finnished. It cost $17 for the balljoint, $11 for a new axle nut, and $25 to have the old b.joint pressed out, and the new put in.
Took me a few hours to get it out, and about 25 minutes to get it back on the road. Score 1 for me! Lol