well i got my 120k service done last week, and noticed today when at idle after starting the car, the crank pulley wobbles, but once opening the throttle it straightens out, i guess cause the belts r tightening up...

what would cause that? how much should the pulley be torqued too...?

also what are signs of a worn PS pulley bearing?

 

do you mean the 105 k service with new timing belt and water pump?
The pulley bolt is 181 foot pounds torquep how can you even see the crank pulley on the car?
Are the belts new- they dont tighten, they loosen slightly as they break in when new
The AC idler pulley goes bad sometimes- mine did

 

I have seen that exact same thing on a 99 Accord i4. When we did the timing belt we changed over to a UR pulley set and the wobbling went away so I would assume it's the pulley. That's not to say that is the case with your car but the easiest way to tell would be to buy a pulley from a junkyard and see if the wobbling goes away. Maybe the crank pulley key is damaged.

 

If it is in fact wobbling you need to get that taken care of before it destroys the motor

 

could the wobble be caused by over tightening?

i did all the stuff in the maint, ac and timing belt tensioner, all the belts, water pump...at first the PS pulley had too much tension, the mech. adjusted it a bit, and its find now....but this wobble just kills me......arg..

excelerate, how long did it take for the wobble to vanish?

 

It wouldnt occur from over tightening it. Maybe if it was too loose or not on all the way. That or its unbalanced and needs replacing.

 

The crankshaft pulley MUST be tightened to 181 foot pounds torque, that requires jamming a tool into the flywheel teeth to hold the engine while other person tightens the bolt
Nothing fixes itself!

For determining noises- use a mechanics stethascope- like what the doctor listens to your heart with but it has a long metal probe tip- put it on metal with a bad bearing inside and it will sound like a grinding howling mess.

 

i went out to see if i can turn the bolt by hand, and it seems to be there snug...im gonna get my mech to undo the bolt, tap it in with a rubber mallet, and torque it back...hopefully its not warped...but i believe it is....

also there is a chip on the outer edge, dont think that is playing tricks on my minds...

anyone got a stock pulley for sale! pm me plzzz

 

snug by hand LOL
as a referance- the wheel lugs are on at 80 foot pounds- thats the spec at least!
Shops tend to put them on way to tight.

All the mechanic has to do is block the flexplate-flywheel from moving, put a torque wrench on the bolt and check, not loosen and tighten
a chip- where?
Did you do all the work yourself?

 

lol i know, u cant check it by hand, but its on there, used my hand first then got a 19mm and extension and put it thru the hole in the lining...

the chip was on the outter edge of the pulley, looked like the timing belt was done be4, and whoever did it be4, didnt use a puller, instead pry bard it to hell...

me and a friend at a shop did the 120maint...everything went well.

also thanks for the help u guys.

 

one more thing guys, by changing the pulley to a new one, think it will fix the prob? cuz cant be anything else other than the pulley...or else the car wouldnt run with a bent crankshaft lol..

 

if service was done last week, why dont u take it back to them and complain

 

it wasnt his fault, he did warn me, and we are friends so i said just put it on, at first he showed me the chip, and technically it wouldnt affect performance....but now i can remember that the pulley wobbled be4, but not this much for me to notice.......meh 01tl4tl convinced me to go with a bomz pulley...might as well, 90 bucks for a oem pulley, and 90 bucks for the performance pulley with belt.....plus the mech/friend is doing it for free...

 

I would rather see you get the OE pulley than the Bomz pulley. Who knows what quality control standards that company has or doesn't have? If you are going to get an aftermarket pulley get teh Unorthodox Racing pulley. It is CNC machined and 0 gram balanced, which is better than the OE pulley.

 

well i got questions then, ill pm u.

 

changed it to a oem one for 90 bucks, mainly went with oem cause of the harmonic balancer....and doesnt change, woot!

 

The OEM doenst have a harmonic balancer.

And are you saying that you put a new one on and it still wobbles??

 

oops sorry, didnt re-read what i wrote, it did fix it, and doesnt wobble...

isnt the harmonic balancer the injected rubber between the pulley and the outer ring of the pulley? i thought we did? i know 6th gen accords do...and we are basically the big brother..

 

No we dont and neither do they. They have harmonic dampers or other wised called elastomer.

People are getting their crank pulleys confused with the harmonic dampers found on some domestic V6 & V8 engines. "Harmonic Balancer" is a term used loosely in the automotive industry. Technically, this type of device does not exist. The "balancer" part comes from engines that are externally balanced and have a counterweight cast into the damper.

The pulleys on most of the new import and smaller domestic engines have an elastomer (rubber ring) incorporated into the pulley making them look similar to a harmonic damper. The elastomer in the OEM pulley serves as an isolator, which is there to suppress noise from the engine accessories; the A/C compressor, P/S pump, and alternator. This is what the manufacturers call NVH (Noise Vibration & Harshness) when referring to noticeable noise and vibration in the passenger compartment. It is important to realize in these applications, the elastomer is inadequate in size and durability to act as an effective torsional damper. If you look at the pulleys on some imports there is no rubber to be found at all. We have samples of these, mostly from Acura/Honda B & D Series engines, Nissan Altima, 1.8L Eclipse, 2.3L Fords, Chrysler 2.2L's, and 1.8L VW's just to mention a few. Most owners who have installed our pulleys notice the engine actually feels smoother. This is result of replacing the heavy crank pulley with our crank pulley. NVH is variable and unique to every car. NVH will increase with the installation of an aftermarket intake and/or exhaust, for example. Think of OEM intake systems in newer cars, they use baffles and resonators in the intake to quiet all the intake noise. Aftermarket intakes eliminate these resonators and create dramatic increases in engine noise from the throttle opening and closing. So to most tuners, certain types of NVH can make the driving experience more enjoyable.

The purpose of a traditional harmonic damper is to protect against crank failure from torsional movement and frequencies of high amplitude. This is not necessary in most modern engines because of the many advances in engine design and materials. Factors such as shorter stroke length, smaller displacement, piston dwell time, piston pin off-set, power output, etc., do determine when and how these harmonics and torsional movements occur. More importantly the actual tune of the engine, espcially with modified vheciles, is the biggest factor in potential engine damage. Poor tuning leads to detonation which is an engine killer that no damper can stop.

 

I think this is the first time, Kris ever wrote that much. But thanks for the info!

 

Kris- you're still happy with your Bomz?
Somebody had to be the test pilot for them- may as well be our leader who can fix his own engine if needed

 

ahh now i understand the differences, so our pulley is just a dampner for vibrations and noise inside/outside the cabin, where as a harmonic balancer is there to dampen the vibration from the torque applied to the crank, and not damage the crank?

 

yea sorta. A old school harmonic balancer is designed to balance the crank vibrations. Our motors are internally balanced and dont need external balance. Ours have just a damper to eliminate noise and slight vibrations.

 

Oh and i wasnt the test pilot. type-r on the CL side was years ago

 

and do you know for fact that his engine is still going with it- the pulley never shattered or freaked out?
the 10 and 25 dollar pulleys scared me to even look at, but that one looks good.
Its not a UR, we all know that, but if it works...

 

dont get me wrong, i woulda went with an aftermarket pulley because of the additional kick, but i alrdy spent money on the belt, so didnt really want to spend the extra 20 on that, rather buy 2 packs of smokes....:P

im an all show and no go guy, after some speeding tickets, learned to cruise..

 

I installed a new UR crank pulley and it wobbles at idle too. What should I do? Is that really bad? its slight and appears to go away when the rpms go up. Could it be unbalanced?

 

well since i changed mine and there is no wobble now, most likely the pulley is warped, or untrue...depending on how bad the wobble is, it may make the belt slip.....mine wasnt serious but it just annoyed me