assclown

iTrader: (1)

so yeah. trying to remove my cam and crank sensors on my spare engine, i got stuck at the crank pulley part. this thing does not want to loosen!






so i'm guessing i'll just buy new sensors. grrrr. considering i have a UR pulley on the engine in my car and it hasn't been on very long, it shouldn't be too hard to remove. just thought i'd show you something funny.

ChucksCL-S

I had to torch it to nearly red hot and then use a six foot pipe on my breaker bar to get it loose. Some guys use a 3/4 impact gun, others use the starter motor method.

AMUA6

iTrader: (7)

AutoZone is gonna have your ass!

assclown

iTrader: (1)

never heard of the torch method. i used my floor jack handle (i think it's 4ft long) i have a compressor but no impact guns. no starter method here, this is a spare engine that sits in my back yard.

haha, it's mine. i paid $30 on ebay for it. it worked at least once on my j32a2 engine. the second time around it got warped

rockstar143

iTrader: (6)

6 foot breaker bar will be better...and maybe some PB blaster as it's been sitting, no?

ChucksCL-S

At the factory these are held on with big torque AND locktite.....torch melts the locktite.

DaveS221

iTrader: (1)

jeeeeezzzzzzzz im jus takin it to a shop.

assclown

iTrader: (1)

i could always load the engine on the truck and take it to a shop haha. but i've already ordered the parts

ryebreadisme

iTrader: (1)

Do you think that's just because it's a cheap ebay one? Those tools are really solid. I have one that I paid ~70.00 for and it's done the job again and again.

acutee

The tool looks soft to me. The arm looks long, and it doesnt look like a molded tool. The other brands are made of harden steel or cast iron, either work or break, they dont bend.

assclown

iTrader: (1)

that's what i was thinking. it did the job for my a2 engine when i changed the timing belt on it and replaced with a UR crank pulley, but this next one got me.

once this project is finished i'll be looking into better tools, but then again, i have no garage yet, so that'll have to wait.

ITL

argh...so I'm in a bind. I've got everything I need to do my timing belt, but cannot get this crank pulley off. I have the UR pulley, so the Honda tool won't work. Any idea how to get it off? I can't seem to get anything to hold the flywheel through the inspection port, and 6mt in gear and brakes applied won't hold the crank either. any ideas?

gold2003tl (90)

ill be trying out my new harbor freight 3/4 inch, 950 ft/lb impact wrench on this crank pulley bolt with in the next week or two. ITEM # 66984 on harbor freight's website. It has a ton of TQ, breaks lug nuts off in one impact cycle, cheap too.

acutee

Use the Starting method: crank with the car key, and turn it off immediately. You will need to have an impact gun to tighten it. its only 50 bucks at HF.

bill_talbot

The crank method worked great for me, but you need to be VERY careful to confirm that everything is in place and to only turn on the ignition for a sec.

Black-Balled

iTrader: (3)

My local dealer did the pulley/ belts for $100.

Well worth it, IMO.

DaveS221

iTrader: (1)

originally i was going to do this but i was convinced by several members that its worth the learning experience and saving the money. yea i paid bout 20 sumthin for a BIG craftsman wrench to do the job, and if it breaks, it will be replaced for free cuz craftsman has that whole warranty thing. plus i enjoy the occasional challenge.

assclown

iTrader: (1)

correct me if I'm wrong, craftsman lifetime warranty is only good for handtools.

DaveS221

iTrader: (1)

i believe you are correct. but i got a bigggg socket wrench. it doesn't ratchet or anything, its just one big solid piece. so if it bends or breaks or w/e while doing this im not too worried. plus i had a little leftover on a sears giftcard so it ended up being only 20 sumthin.

DaveS221

iTrader: (1)

main thing going thru my head tho is the starter motor. has anyone ever experienced any damage or explosion or sumthin crazy happening to it? yea explosion may be a little exaggerated but you get my point.

nicotls

Removed mine easy with the gun (CP) but then maybe it had already been removed in the past...

schen72

Something similar happened to my TL at about 200k miles. The started had died.

whitetiger5

Arkady

Impressive! I should collect my broken tools from my failed attempt at doing this over the past weekend. Broke a few impact sockets, a breaker bar (at the socket joint), the cheater bar, a few extensions.
Heating it didn't work, 1200ft/lb 1/2" drive impact did nothing, 1500ft/lb 3/4" did nothing either. Starter trick didn't work, cheater bar + breaker bar just broke tools, soaking in PB Blaster and torching it all day didn't help either.
We didn't get the bolt red-hot, but I may try doing that later. We decided that after 7 hours of working on the one bolt, that it's torqued on with the will of god himself and that we had no business removing it, LOL

Any other trips from my fellows here on getting that bolt off?

whitetiger5

Try heating the pulley...It's common to presume heating the bolt, but heating the bolt will make it more difficult to remove as it acts similar to a cylinder which will expand as temperatures increase. After you heated the pulley, perhaps try hitting the BOLT with some freezing spray, then immediately try to remove...

Arkady

Now there's an idea! Good thinking. My belt looks fine and this was moreso preventative maintenance due to mileage, but I'll give that a shot later this summer when I can afford to take this car apart again. Thanks!