Check Engine Light
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I've got 9K miles on my 2000TL and the Check Engine light just came on for the 4th time. The TCS light often comes on first, then the Check Engine light comes on and stays on.
What's the deal? It's not the gas cap, because I always give it way more than 3 clicks.
Any ideas?
-bk
What's the deal? It's not the gas cap, because I always give it way more than 3 clicks.
Any ideas?
-bk
Originally posted by BK1:
I've got 9K miles on my 2000TL and the Check Engine light just came on for the 4th time. The TCS light often comes on first, then the Check Engine light comes on and stays on.
What's the deal? It's not the gas cap, because I always give it way more than 3 clicks.
Any ideas?
-bk
I've got 9K miles on my 2000TL and the Check Engine light just came on for the 4th time. The TCS light often comes on first, then the Check Engine light comes on and stays on.
What's the deal? It's not the gas cap, because I always give it way more than 3 clicks.
Any ideas?
-bk
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Posts: n/a
Guess I should have mentioned that the dealer said they found "nothing" the first three times and a "misfire" from one of the cylinders - so they replaced the spark plug wire.
Still, every 2-3K or so, the lights come on. The TCS goes off after a day or so and the Check Engine light stays on.
Gott be something else.
Other ideas?
Still, every 2-3K or so, the lights come on. The TCS goes off after a day or so and the Check Engine light stays on.
Gott be something else.
Other ideas?
Originally posted by BK1:
Guess I should have mentioned that the dealer said they found "nothing" the first three times and a "misfire" from one of the cylinders - so they replaced the spark plug wire.
Still, every 2-3K or so, the lights come on. The TCS goes off after a day or so and the Check Engine light stays on.
Gott be something else.
Other ideas?
Guess I should have mentioned that the dealer said they found "nothing" the first three times and a "misfire" from one of the cylinders - so they replaced the spark plug wire.
Still, every 2-3K or so, the lights come on. The TCS goes off after a day or so and the Check Engine light stays on.
Gott be something else.
Other ideas?
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Well if its any comfort to you, I used to have this problem a lot at the beginning of my car's life, from 1000miles in to about 5 or 6K. Now I have 13K on it and it hasnt had the annoying check engine light come on in a long time.
oh crap, i just noticed you wrote taht you have 9K already. hmmm...
<FONT COLOR="#800080" SIZE="1" FACE="Verdana, Arial">[This message has been edited by Danny with a silver stock on April 10, 2001 @ ]</font>
oh crap, i just noticed you wrote taht you have 9K already. hmmm...
<FONT COLOR="#800080" SIZE="1" FACE="Verdana, Arial">[This message has been edited by Danny with a silver stock on April 10, 2001 @ ]</font>
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Doesn't the check engine light indicate that an error code is present? Shouldn't the dealer be able to read the error? Is there any way for an end user to get the error code? I know with GM you can short a couple of wires, count the blinks and read the service manual.
Okay... I think this belongs to the FAQ.
What happened is that all the 2000 TL have the ECU computer bug, which will cuase the Engine Check Light to come on... Mine came one 7 times already. It's okay to drive your car with the light on... but I know how you feel... Acura sucks, both the dealers and Honda Motor corp.
Now, if you have trouble starting your car and indeed having unstable idel engine rpm. Then you are having problems with having unburn gas in some where in your engine. I forgot where... But anyhow, that's kinda related to the ECU as well. This can be fixed by having the dealer adjusting the fan so that it stays on after you shut off the car. So it cools down your engine.
I was REALLY upset about the problem. But I can live with it now. Cuz you have to realize that you get what you paid for. When all my Bimmer and Lexus friends are having troubles with their car and the service they got from the dealers. There ain't much more that I can expect from Acura, or should I say Honda?! Look at the IS300, they cost more, but don't even Auto-dim mirror... Well, not a very good example, but just trying to make you people feel better. I mean there is a reason why the TL cost less than it's competitors. Cuz it's made in the USA
What happened is that all the 2000 TL have the ECU computer bug, which will cuase the Engine Check Light to come on... Mine came one 7 times already. It's okay to drive your car with the light on... but I know how you feel... Acura sucks, both the dealers and Honda Motor corp.
Now, if you have trouble starting your car and indeed having unstable idel engine rpm. Then you are having problems with having unburn gas in some where in your engine. I forgot where... But anyhow, that's kinda related to the ECU as well. This can be fixed by having the dealer adjusting the fan so that it stays on after you shut off the car. So it cools down your engine.
I was REALLY upset about the problem. But I can live with it now. Cuz you have to realize that you get what you paid for. When all my Bimmer and Lexus friends are having troubles with their car and the service they got from the dealers. There ain't much more that I can expect from Acura, or should I say Honda?! Look at the IS300, they cost more, but don't even Auto-dim mirror... Well, not a very good example, but just trying to make you people feel better. I mean there is a reason why the TL cost less than it's competitors. Cuz it's made in the USA
Originally posted by BK1:
Guess I should have mentioned that the dealer said they found "nothing" the first three times and a "misfire" from one of the cylinders - so they replaced the spark plug wire.
Still, every 2-3K or so, the lights come on. The TCS goes off after a day or so and the Check Engine light stays on.
Gott be something else.
Other ideas?
Guess I should have mentioned that the dealer said they found "nothing" the first three times and a "misfire" from one of the cylinders - so they replaced the spark plug wire.
Still, every 2-3K or so, the lights come on. The TCS goes off after a day or so and the Check Engine light stays on.
Gott be something else.
Other ideas?
BK1- do you know what code your dealer is getting out of the computer? We are seeing quite a few emission/purge system codes here in the Northeast. Many are gas related. Make sure you don't fill up the tank with the car running or with the key in the on (like listening to the radio) position. Also, make sure the gas cap is replaced tight. Fuel quality can cause the problem. Are you using good fuel, proper octane, from a busy station? Don't touch the accel pedal when starting the car. Without actually having the car present, it is hard to diagnose, but those are some of the common causes.
------------------
Wayne Gruen
Service Manager
Park Ave Acura
------------------
Wayne Gruen
Service Manager
Park Ave Acura
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I always replace the cap tight - at least 3 -6 clicks. Always use good gas from a busy station. I was told that my error codes indicate miss-fires. Once the Check Engine light came on after the TCS light came on when I lost traction around a curve in winter conditions.
Interestingly enough, the Check Engine light went out yesterday at some time after filling the tank. Don't know if that has any thing to do with it, but I figured that I'd mention it.
-bk
Interestingly enough, the Check Engine light went out yesterday at some time after filling the tank. Don't know if that has any thing to do with it, but I figured that I'd mention it.
-bk
Originally posted by wayneg:
BK1- do you know what code your dealer is getting out of the computer? We are seeing quite a few emission/purge system codes here in the Northeast. Many are gas related. Make sure you don't fill up the tank with the car running or with the key in the on (like listening to the radio) position. Also, make sure the gas cap is replaced tight. Fuel quality can cause the problem. Are you using good fuel, proper octane, from a busy station? Don't touch the accel pedal when starting the car. Without actually having the car present, it is hard to diagnose, but those are some of the common causes.
BK1- do you know what code your dealer is getting out of the computer? We are seeing quite a few emission/purge system codes here in the Northeast. Many are gas related. Make sure you don't fill up the tank with the car running or with the key in the on (like listening to the radio) position. Also, make sure the gas cap is replaced tight. Fuel quality can cause the problem. Are you using good fuel, proper octane, from a busy station? Don't touch the accel pedal when starting the car. Without actually having the car present, it is hard to diagnose, but those are some of the common causes.
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