Changing inner tie rod
Changing inner tie rod
I am about to change out my inner tie rod cause it's worn and thinking of doing this on my own. I have access to air tools.
Has anyone changed it out on their own before and can shed some knowledge so it will be an easier process for me?
Will be changing out the front left inner tie rod.
Has anyone changed it out on their own before and can shed some knowledge so it will be an easier process for me?
Will be changing out the front left inner tie rod.
I haven't used a pickle fork in years. They almost always tear the boot. If you hit the casting where the outer tie rod tapered stud goes through with a hammer, the tie rod end will pop out easily. You will also need a new clamp for the rack bellows and most likely an inner tie rod end tool. Count the threads on your old one, like 01 mentioned, but I'd still get the alignment/toe checked.
I haven't used a pickle fork in years. They almost always tear the boot. If you hit the casting where the outer tie rod tapered stud goes through with a hammer, the tie rod end will pop out easily. You will also need a new clamp for the rack bellows and most likely an inner tie rod end tool. Count the threads on your old one, like 01 mentioned, but I'd still get the alignment/toe checked.
What I was trying to get at is everybody has a hammer or two, while most don't have a pickle fork or tie rod end press. Once you've tried the hammer way, I think it's easier and faster too. Nobody seems to stock outer tie rod boots around here although I know they are cheap. The o.p. didn't mention doing the outer end, so he wouldn't have the outer boot. They are nearly impossible to get for domestic and aftermarket parts. I keep an assortment of energy suspension boots because of this. One more tip is to loosen the jamb nut at the outer end before you separate the outer end. It's easier that way.
My right side inner tie rod end needs replacing. Is it necessary to go ahead and change both sides? Are the aftermarket ones any good? They come with a lifetime warranty.
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The car wanders a lot on uneven pavement and the steering wheel is a little loose and numb feeling. also with the car off and on the ground, wiggling the steering wheel makes a clunking sound. I confirmed it by having someone wiggle while i felt the tie rod, and left a lack of solid connection when wiggling at the inner tie rod around the boot to the steering rack.
Very easy. I use a pitman puller for the ball joints. Never tears the boots. Take off wheel. Take out cotter pin and loosen ball joint with puller. Measure where your old rod sits and set so you can set new one as close as mentioned above. Take off boot covering inner tie rod. Take out inner tie rod with wrench. Now youre ready for your new parts. Dont really have anything else to say about it its really simple. Wish i had the torque specs in front of me. Im sure theyre here somewhere.
The outer tie rod is where the toe alignment adjustments are made. The outer rod has a locking nut behind it. Somepeople count the turns but you're replacing the set. I'd recomend getting the new one as close as possible and getting an alignment. Good place is tires plus. I just got an alignment with a 3yr warr for 99 bucks. GL
it's easier to lay the old tie rod next to the new one matching the ends up, then marking the new tie rod with a piece of chalk, you should see a difference in the color of the threads the exposed thread will be rusted or dirty the threads that where inside of the sleeve will be farly clean.
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marcelft
2G TL (1999-2003)
30
Jul 10, 2018 06:17 PM







