I recently change my oil with Mobil 1 Full Synthetic. I dont remember how many miles it was, but it was certainly over 5,000 miles. Chris said that he changes his oil every 10,000 miles and the car is ok. What I want to find out is, when do I change out the oil filter? Every 5,000 miles or change it when I change my engine oil?

I also see that Kragen has an oil special with Mobil 1 filter. Are those any good? The regular price for the filter is ~$10! That's more than double the Fram filter that I always put in my car.

 

Mobil 1 filters are made on the same assembly line as K&N, so both are excellent products
The internals of both- compared to some other brands- is ok versus WOW !!!

Normal oil change intervals of 7500 miles apply to synthetics as well as dino oil
You can go farther IF you seafoam the engine internals at oil change, to remove the old built up crud AND THEN have a $35 mass spectrometer analysis of an oil sample done partway thru-- like at 5000, to see how much life is left is the special additives in the oil- that make it do its job.
That report may say good for another 5000 or may say good for another 3000

Kris does the seafoam at oil change and goes way farther than a normal human - and drives great distances at freeway speed in one trip- which is less wearing on the oil than stop and go traffic.

Alway change the filter at oil change time, and its good to replace it at 5000 if going for 10
The oil picks up combustion byproducts and transports them to the filter. When the filter reaches a limit of what it can contain- it opens a bypass valve and all the crud continues to circulate without ANY filtration- thats bad.
Filters are cheap- engines and gas are expensive- a clean engine and fuel induction system are helpful in gettting the best gas economy and engine life.

 

At regular price of $10 for the Mobil 1 vs the $4 for FRAM, would you still buy the Mobil 1? The marketing on the filter said that it does a much better job than the average filter (I dont remember the exact %). I'll keep in mind the seafoam on my next oil change.

 

I prefer the K&N for certain technical reasons and the 1 inch nut welded on the end makes it easy to remove next time!
fsttyms uses fram with no problem- thought they did change them recently- probably to a cheaper whatever internals- but thats a total guess on my part
Since I do 2 oil changes a year I dont think of the filter as a big expense overall
10 bucks - spend it!
Mobil 1 is well regarded oil, make sure it says FULLY synthetic on the bottle

 

Compromise...buy the the Bosch filter ($6.59) Much better than the Fram and almost as good (Personally, I think it's just as good. You're buying the brand more than anything) as the Mobil filter. It's good quality and it'll save you a few bucks. Just change the filter when you change the oil, you'll be fine.

 

Cheaper?!?! They already make the internals out of cardboard! How much cheaper can they get?? Maybe they'll start wadding up old newspaper and stuff the filter canister with that.

 

^^old underwear internals?

 

Yea, I will probably go with the Bosch filter on my next change.

 

In Austrailia- the land of old us army jeeps everywhere, there is a commony found oil filter cannister on them- and many off road vehicles or low budget rides

I sheet you not:

Its holds 1 roll of Toilet Paper- single ply!!!- its designed to!!!

 

I'd go with the Mobil1 or other 'reputable' oil filters. I used the M1-104 ... use the oil for 10k ... but swap filters at 5k. $20/year for an oil filter = insurance on your engine. Think of that way than just a price on a filter. Not to say Fram won't do a good job, but I would rather use a 'better' oil filter.

 

So when you guys just swap the oil filter only do you just unscrew the old one and try to screw the new one in really fast. Won't it keep pouring out oil?

 

it wont lose more than a few drops besides whats in the filter itself- no need to rush-
take the time to wipe the seal area clean,
put a little new oil on the oring for the fliter and pour some into the filter itself to prime it.

The oil pump is what gets oil to the filter- so as long as the engine is off, no flow to filter

Before deciding on once a year changes with high miles- get an analysis done- your oil may only be good for 8000 miles and the secret sauce particles wear out. Makers know the suggested interval for change and make oil to match

 

Eh? Changing opinions now....

Whatever happened to all the hype for Purolator Pure One?

Because I just bought a few of those after reading the reviews.

 

its all personal choice really

 

I have always use K&N Filter w/Mobil synthetic oil and satisfied with it.

 

And 20 bucks says if people didnt read all the negativity on the internet towards the fram filter you would be satisfied with it as well

 

I use the fram Tough Guard 7317. Good filtration tests, and better than bottom end. gets changed about ever 4-6k anyway. Nice grippy black bottom helps to remove.

 

I'm moving to full syn at the next change. I will seafoam per Tom's advice and drive for a day. Then change to Syn and a filter recommended by Tom and then drive 15k (approx 1 year) on the same oil. I'll let you know how that goes.

 

rob- I would really suggest you get an analysis done at 7000 miles and let that guide your further mileage on that oil run, time is also a factor as well as miles

www.blackstone-labs.com email them and you get a free sample collection jar and shipping info. You dont pay them until you actually send a sample in
you have to pay the extra 10- for a 35$ total, the first part tells you the health of the engine and how the oil is protecting it and working with it,

the extra test is for the lifespan miles left in the secret additives- without those, the oil is worthless.
See their web examples of the printout and narrative they give with it- a real person looks at the results and says- you have excess metal type x, that means you have excess wear on such and such- rod bearing as an example
or- everything is well within normal limits compared to all the cars with this engine that we have tested. Your current xyz life level is 7, on other cars with this engine and oil combination (by oil brand) 4 is the lowest to get
We would suggest another 4000 miles on this oil and restest or replace.

search on here -blackstone labs- for actual results from fsttyms1 and others

 

Will do, and I'll keep you all updated for the fun of it.

 

for the oil filter go with Walmart's SuperTech, 'tis made by Champion, my friend. Cut open a Fram and a SuperTech and you will truly see which filter is better.

 

why dont you buy them and cut open- take pics and then we can tell more
there are several features to look for in a filter and there are many good brands and a few great ones

 

And tell me, do you really think it matters?

 

but Kris- if they dont have this to quibble over- what will be next! comparison of wax or application procedures? Perhaps we can discuss relative airflow of unducted air- to that shoved or sucked thru a 4 inch wide corregated plastic pipe? or the ever popular- why dont I make a pvc CAI- thats certain to be better than any computer designed system and airflow studies

I harken from the days of the Wright Brothers and the homebuilt air chamber testing unit~
We would put the race car on the trailer and tape bits of colored yarn all over the car body and winglets- wings- fenders....and see what changes made the air go where we thought best. Amazing how it can easily be changed,,, and the looks you get as you fly down the freeway with the car in tow

 

We need to talk about wax applications..... I could debate it all night

 

apply it where other people see the hair.

 

Wow, that truly is a unique experience. To think, I drive down the highway at highspeeds in the rain for about an hour. Go home and do nothing but ponder all of the waterstreaks over my bare stock sport sedan. I really have nothing to change or gain. Just like to think about that I know, I'm a bit different.

P.S. Don't drive at high speeds in the rain. You could

 

Back on topic, I click on the link you posted. What I was wondering is this:

For the Make-Up Oil field, please put the number of quarts added between oil changes.

Is that referring to how many quarts you put right after the oil change?

 

I believe that means how much oil did you add between oil changes. (If any)

 

the purolator pureone filter is a good alternative to the more expensive mobil/K&N/wix filters. Im using the purolator pureone filters and mobil 1 filters for 7.5-8k intervals with full synthetic oil. I believe the best napa filter is also pretty good. the lowest quality filters would be fram, STP, supertech and the unknown brands. I believe the best fram filter at like 10-12 bucks is good but no one would pay that much for a fram filter. any other filter is in between. Honda filters are towards the lower end of the quality spectrum. sorry but they have fram like internals and are made in canada like the fram filters are.
does this mean never buy the 2 dollar filters? no. I jave never heard of these low quality filters failing. Some have had a few minor problems but if your going 3-5k an oil change then these filters will be fine. anything longer and go with the higher quality more expensive filters

 

If so there shouldnt be any need to add oil between changes. Now if you run 10-15k intervals and change the filter half way through then you would add just enough to top it back off. (usually 1/4 quart for me)

 

Supa-
make up oil is as kris said- any oil added to replace burned off oil, which the TL normally does not have an issue with. Thats for trucks where its normal to need oil added between changes
It allows them to compensate readings for a fresh 2 qts diluting 3 ugly metal shaving filled qts!
Anyone changing the oil at 3000 miles is throwing money away
You can go 5000 and not have any worries with brand name oil- 7500 is normal design lifespan of most brands.

 

To be honest with you, I have seen crap (of a paper nature) in my oil when I used the Fram filters. I am assuming it is from the cardboard ends they use. SuperTech, Champion, K&N, etc. utilize metals as the ends. Though, I really don't think it does matter, I do not see the need to spend ~$5, when I can buy a filter for ~$3 that does the same (and from some tests, a better) job.

 

2 bucks saved---- let me guess- you run 87 octane too

 

well now, not everyone who buys 87oc won't throw in $2 for a filter. I take may savings and spend like I want.

 

You talking to me??? If so, tell me why when I go to the local Walmart, I should spend ~$5 on a oil filter when a cheaper one does the same job????

and, No, I do not run 87 octane. Run the V-Power from Shell. I am not cheap, but I am thrifty, will take my savings where I can.

Some good reading into the various filters --> LINK
Look at this
and this

 

Some more info
Analysis
I understand the above posted is a lot to read and review... but the bottom line is the Fram filter is probably built well, but the other filters are built better and do a better job, so not bashing Fram, but in my book, it is not worth the cost. I started my search and review of the various oils and oil filters cause I got tired of paying ~$11 for a motorcycle filter every time I needed to do a change. I drive ~15k in my car and ride about ~12-13k miles on the bike each year... and if any of you guys ride, you know that a motorcycle is a maintenance whore....

 

Im going to call :BS: on seeing stuff floating in the oil from it being from the filter.

Also like i said many hate fram on the internet and sure there are filters that are better, but looking at how they are better equates to what? One might argue that they are getting superior filtration, but if there is enough stuff in the oil that needs to be filtered out that much better you have other issues to worry about. I ran the fram filter for over 200k on my last motor and guess what, not one problem, Motor was in as good of shape as it was when i bought it new. (confirmed by compression tests and oil sample tests, as well as 1/4 mile times and that was 8k dino oil changes 10-15k syn oil changes) Too many read too much into oil and filters.

 

rob- I am just kidding you - it was meant as a general comment on save 2 bucks a tankful -and 4 bucks a year on filter--- I see so many post where someone is trying to out think acura or the cars somputer---and use 87..to each his own
I use fram or napa on the truck and the wifes kids car, but like the K&N for the TL mainly for the easy off nut on the end
Do I want to believe its superior- for 10 bucks it better be!!!
91 at the 76 today-- 4.63 arrrrrgh

 

How tight do you put that damn thing on that you need the easy on/off nut on it?????