I did not have time to look at it yesterday but I will be today.
I dropped my car off at a local shop to get the ac charged sunday. Well First step he sucked the system down and charged it back up. First problem he noticed the hi side valve was leaking (explains fading ac). Sucked it back down replaced valve charged back up. Turned it on all seemed fine. Then he noticed a growling sound from the compressor then a puff of smoke. Now the compressor does not turn on at all.

First thought growling = fried bearing or clutch but there is no continuous rotational noise that I would expect from either.

Second when I went to pick the car up there is an obvious electrical smell. So im thinking there was a short at the plug which I will look at later today. If this is the case is it possible the compressor is not fried.

My problem with #2 is I have been running the cars a/c for two months it is some coincidence that it shorted right after the system was repaired and fully charged.

(The events that took place are exactly what I was told it would help a lot if I was around when this happened)

 

You can Diagnose you A/C system instead of trying to guess what happened.








Hope this helps.

 

Hm that's a tough one. Just guessing but maybe the introduction of pressure into the system caused a failing compressor to give it up? Did he run the compressor without anything in it?

Spec is 1.3-1.4 lbs refrigerant, anything more will damage the compressor.

 

http://vid722.photobucket.com/albums...pszgcpwa6u.mp4

hope this video helps a little and skirmich thanks for that info I will be using that after dinner. the downloaded manual i have say 23-27 oz and that is what was put in. No he did not try running without pressure in system.

the video above show me jumping switch plug that goes into the drier/accumulator. you can hear the car bog down and the clutch switch on and of rapidly.

 

I- was pulled for the first few blink them K- was added

I- An open in the air mix control motor circuit
k- A problem in the air mix control linkage, door, or motor

Im not to experienced in hvac systems so this has me stumped. To me neither seem to point to my main issue.

 

Weird.... I don't believe a problem with the Air Mix Motor should cause that issue. In any case with your video seems that the car has been overfilled, The Compressor immediately shuts down to protect itself.

 

if it wasn't sucked down completely, leaving some Freon behind is like draining 3 qts of engine oil and adding 5!
and re vac pressure ckd for 15 minutes,
then refilled with correct amount of special oil and whatever R- we use =
compressor would do as noted above= protection mode
What are the actual gauge pressure readings, hi and low now?

Is the cabin fan working? If its connector under the front edge of glovebox is fried inside- as many do, the ac will shut down. Its dependent on that cabin fan to enable its operation
Codes are CLUES not a diagnosis in themselves, and will often lead you astray.
Its a combination of codes, your personal symptoms, plus someone's experience of similar failure that leads to an answer!

 

was that puff of smoke from compressor really Freon escaping a seal when it was turned on?

Lets back up a few months- have you been adding Freon at home because it wasn't working very well or kept failing?
Give us a couple of clues!

was Freon with leak detector dye added?

 

I am not sure of the actual pressure within the system. Im thinking on buying a guage set tomorow. No I have not added or released any freon from the system. I am against the self fill methods because they are inaccurate (With the exclusion of dye for diag). The cabin fan is working and was the entire time this was happening however there is a loose connection I have negleted to fix because it seldomly acts up and when it does I simply jiggle the connection under the glove box and its all good. As for the puff of smoke I have no clue I was not around when said smoke happened.

I do (with my lack of hvac knowledge) agree with skirmich. It is to coincidental for this to start right when the system was charged. I feel lime an overcharge is to blame. I know ive given numbers previously but i believe his books showed 23oz my downloaded manual shows 25-27 he says to have put 25oz in. Also to my knowledge most auto machine given the right capacity/pressure will completely suck the system down and recharge by itself.

Only unexplained variable is the electrical smell. Mind you i jus replaced both serp belts and the side motor mount last week the smell was not there. I still smelt it today as I was messing with the system.

 

fix that main power lead for the cabin fan NOW
besides the electrical fire- it controls ac operation

right on the ac compressor or a plate mounted to the body under hood has Spec for oil amount and type for AC plus Freon type and amount

I have no knowledge of modern machines and ability to do everything
Have only used the very old type where each step is done by the tech, vac down, vac hold and inspect pressure test, add Freon and oil per spec plate amounts and test.

A leak was found during your process and it had to be repeated, but correctly???
that's where I am thinking overfill could occur
or the books are wrong and the plate was not consulted
Who are you going to believe,..???
The plate Acura placed directly on the car with their computerized method of tracking parts and assembling them together

Much like you can buy spark plugs `some book says fit the TL` but are totally bogus in operation
Follow the spec plate!

 

 

1 small issue with consulting the plate.... The plate is mia I actually looked 3 times and had my brother look as well just incase I somehow overlooked it. I questioned the books value when chojun gave the value 1.3-1.4. The books 25-27oz does not equally match those numbers. So as of now I will most likely be taking the car back and hooking the machine up myself. Both you and skirmich as well as myself are leaning toward an overcharged situation.

 

Keep in mind the service manual is pretty precise on the refrigerant and refrigerant oil levels. It says that you *will* damage your compressor if it is filled too high. After the symptoms you said (noise, electrical smell), I'd fill it to the proper level and then check the resistance on the field coil on the compressor (3.4 - 3.8 Ohm).

Hopefully you don't have to replace the compressor. That would be a trip to the junk/parts yard.

 

Chojun- Checking the resistance on the field coil??
Is that what the wire runs to on the compressor. It has a single wire leading to the plug. so + multi in the plug - multi on a ground source. does the compressor have to be operating. Car running, compressor engaged?

 

Apparently PAG refrigerant oil is required - mixing this with something else will cause compressor failure. It also looks like there's a pressure sensor that will shut off your compressor if there's too much in there.

If the compressor won't come on then check fuse 58 (under-hood fuse box), #3 (driver's-side box), and I think #14 (passenger fuse box, Type-S only).

 

Guys in any case there is a small sticker on the Passenger Shock Tower stating the actual fill capacity of the system! Nobody noticed that?

 

A previous owner must have taken mine off. I wish it was there I most likely wouldn't be trying to figure this issue right now. I already checked #3 fuse on driver side but not the #58 under hood. The compressor does kick on but immediately turns back off. Also in the case the field coil fried is that a serviceable part?

 

Ok so that blower motor plug where do you get a new plug from. Mine is a little burnt. On a plus side u pulled some freon out she blows cold but only when I bypass the pressure switch that is in the accumulator drier. So im going to replace the switch. Now to take car of this plug.

 

That is so crazy! Anyone know why this happens?

 

After some reading it seems like i will have to replace the harness. Ive been looking for about 20 min online and can not find it. If you know of a jimmy rig way to get me through my delivery shift tomorow afternoon please let me know. Also should I replace the blower motor or just clean the contact off. OOOO and will honda carry the harness I need.

 

acura sells the connector with new wires on both sides that you have to splice in $25

OR cut out the bad sections and splice in wires- without a quick connector,,knowing that if you ever need to go in there again- a wire will need to be cut,,big deal, $2 gets you AC today!

the problem starts with the wires being very tight, then movement- moisture rust- meltage, they used that same part in so many applications it was never meant for~

The fan motor and its resistor should be fine- as long as you have full fan speed control - all is well
May solve more of your ac problems too

 

PAG is pretty common ac oil, you buy it in cans of the size you need and put the whole thing in

A shop or guy with a real machine should have it on hand, but you need to find out what went on with your car specifically

 

The compressor oil is it PAG 46 I looked it up and there are a few different numbers. Scratch that Denso nd oil-8 or PAG 46. And 01tl4tl I believe I solved the issue. It seems to have been an overfill problem due to wrong values given in my downloaded manual. And correct me if im wrong for thinkin the pressure switch is bad. When I bypass the pressure switch that is in the top of the drier accumulator the system runs great.

 

find out if the pressures are correct, or is the valve bad- before more random parts replacement

fixing that power lead is important, the ac will not operate without that switch working to run the fan, there is an interlock system
Do nothing else until that power is restored and operating!!

back in the day: we had to jump a cars pressure switch to get it to accept Freon-- when the system was empty, not full
Something is up but need those gauge readings hi low- on off, temp of air coming out vents, and at what temp does the ac turn itself off?

 

Trader- please note we use red color in text to indicate sarcasm,,like good score on those champion spark plugs- it will run great on them

If you want to call attention to a sentence please use green or bold or italics and bold or..pretty much anything but red~
No need to change text font size or main color

 

I used the red because I already submitted the response rather than delete it and change up the whole response I did that and added the rest of the response.

 

The high side valve and low side valve are good. I am hoping to be able to fix the power lead Friday. There is no acura dealer close to where a live which is why I asked if Honda would carry the harness.

 

I would imagine that Honda would carry the parts. My honda dealer nearby seems to have all the parts I need for my car in stock (haven't asked for anything obscure though).

 

funny I have to order most things as its a 15 year old car, and they stock parts for new cars!
I would expect to order the harness, its obscure
BUT
there is no safety issue with you cutting it out of the system, only there for speeding assembly of the car
Install a new set of wires cut to length- with blue 3M side-by-side wire clamps or inline/butt connectors. Cutting out the damaged portions of the wires~

 

I got the harness I used my half hour break to go get it. Don't tell my boss I was actually gone for over an hour. Hopefully I can get it spliced in before my second job tonight