mynameishello

It's been going on for a few days now and it won't go away...For a while it actually did go away but now it's come back and it hasn't stopped since. So this is the problem...Everytime i brake, i hear this grinding noise. Like metal grinding against metal. Anyone know what it might be? Brake pads maybe???

fsttyms1

i would take your wheels off and inspect pads and rotors to see if the pads are worn out and ruining the rotors.

mynameishello

Are there any other possible problems or could it just only be the pads?

princelybug

iTrader: (16)

Sounds like worn pads, with the wear indicators scraping the rotors.

01tl4tl

Likely the tab that extends past the edge of the pad- so it hits the rotor when you brake and makes a BAD noise- thats to warn you of brake pads low and needing inspection.

Sounds like you could have worn yours till it broke off, and now are pure backing plate metal pressing the metal of the rotor- not good for your wallet

AMGala

iTrader: (4)

Did your brakes squeak before you started getting this grinding noise? When the tab first makes contact with the rotor, most times it makes a squeaking sound to let you know your pads are low.

bibledriver

You are going to need rotors and pads most likely. Even if they turn your rotors, if this has been going on a while you will lose a lot of material.

New pads and rotors (at least on one side, and one good turn deserves another).

01tl4tl

I would not replace one rotor and surface the other side- thats just kidding yourself.
Typically the brakes wear out evenly side to side- unless there is a MAJOR problem!
The thinner rotor will heat and cool differently than a new full one- think shake issues and more- plus you will need to replace it in a little while- paying labor again
Dont replace 1 caliper when its frozen-siezed-stuck- do both sides and suspect the master cylinder to go too

bibledriver

Absolutely, one good turn deserves another + more overt = DO BOTH.
lol

01tl4tl

see- even i miss the blatently subtle = got to TELL the "newer to working on their car crowd" so there is no mistake or misunderstanding of what parts may be needed versus what a shop tells them.
Not that I spent years in the industry or anything- all shops are honest
We are helping members who may have driven it right thru the squeeler- sooooo

like bleeding order LF=Driver front, then clockwise around the car
LF RF RR LR
if brembo calipers- outer nipple first then inner
top off fluid, REPLACE CAP on mc-
that type of- Do THIS instructions

Dont worry folks- BD and I are buddies who like to kid each other

pizz419

just upgrade and do all 4 rotors and pads!! its worth the $$. just upgraded to EBC slotted/dimpled and EBC red stuff and i am more than pleased!! parts $500ish and did all the work myself.

acutee

If your pads are still good, more likely you need a lot more sim squeal gell, forgot what it is called, but it is like gel, blue color. It happened on mine and I just applied a lot more on the back of the each pad; all good, and resolved.

FuriousSam

On the back where?

bibledriver

backing plate of the brake pad (the side that doesn't touch the rotor, hard metal is backing plate; heterogeneous stuff that contacts the rotor is lining/"brake pad") is where you apply the grease which dampens the vibrations that we know as squeling brakes.

bibledriver

Apply the grease to the backing plate. hehe

SodaLuvr

If the pad is shimmed, the backing plate should only receive synthetic caliper grease. No anti-squeal should be used, as that will cause the shim to pull away from the backing plate, causing additional noise problems.

You should bed-in the brake pads according to these instructions. It cures a lot of noise and pedal feel problems:

http://www.zeckhausen.com/bedding_in_brakes.htm

bibledriver

I have always used synthetic caliper grease and never had problems with noise.