ANC297

iTrader: (2)

Is there any way to tell visually how worn out the brakes are on a 02? I know about the whole squeaking deal, but is there any other way?

acutee

The rear ones are easy to see. The front ones, you will need to take the wheel off on each side.

01tl4tl

you can look thru the ends of the caliper or thru a center viewport
If the center groove cut into the pads is gone- you need brakes yesterday

If the pad material is 2-3 mm thick you need brakes today

totaledTL

Some shops will inspect them for free- just be prepared for the sales pitch, & hang around when they do it so you can look for yourself.

hANDYcaptd

iTrader: (5)

Nice

01tl4tl

if a shop checks them- ask for an actual pad material thickness for each pad- inner and outer
the tech often does the same visual check I described and based on past experience, assigns a percentage of life to it-
each place and tech may differ- does 40 percent mean I have 10k miles more, or does it mean the pads started at 10mm thick (normal) and now are 4mm thick- which is almost time to replace them
yes MINIMUM is 2 mm but the pads dont work nearly as well as before once below 4mm
Cant shed the heat and make the brake torque we so enjoy~

01tl4tl

NEVER go to midas- meineke or similar type places for ~free~ brake inspection
Of course you NEED brakes today!!!- they are on a corporate manadated sales quota and have to sell xxxx each week or lose their job

find your local honda-acura- import car specialty shop in the phone book
and pay a small amount to have it inspected
Of course its cheaper to buy new pads and drop them in if you have any doubts-

A simple visual is look at the master cylinder fluid level-
if its not still at the middle of the filler neck on the FULL line- the fluid has gone to the calipers- when they have to push farther due to thin pads they need more fluid to remain filled


The squeeler tab is a thin metal arm attached to the inner pad
When the pad reaches 2mm the arm contacts the rotor when the brakes are applied
You may only hear it at low speeds, but each time you press the brakes pedal you make a scratch in the rotor which will need resurfacing or replacement--if its OE rotor plan on replacement anyway- get rid of the warpmasters

01tl4tl

as always- my reminder that if you are going to work on the brakes-
FIRST flush the brake fluid until all clean new fluid comes out each caliper

Otherwise when removing and handling the calipers you stir up crud and sharp rust particulates that are in there for sure
matter which easily cut the thin oring on the caliper piston = caliper failure = bummer

murky

If I replaced the brake fluid a month and 1000 miles ago, do I need to bleed them again now when I replace the pads and rotors? I haven't done any aggressive braking, nothing more than when I bedded in the pads.

01tl4tl

If you did the brake fluid flush in the last 6 months you are ok to work on the system without concern

It wont hurt to check the fronts for bubbles- just in case- only takes a minute

totaledTL

Best name I've heard so far for them...