bruistopher

Hi,

I ordered 4 new drilled/slotted rotors and ceramic brake pads from Brakemotive a few weeks back and I put them on today due to my previous ones were warped.

After installation I test drove the vehicle and noticed a humming or moaning sound coming from the wheels and it wasn't noticeable before.

Is this drilled/slotted rotor related or brake pad or something else? This is my first time using these type of rotors on my TL.

Any answers would help! Thanks...

Because I'm thinking about cutting my previous ones and installing them back on.

hANDYcaptd

iTrader: (5)

Its normal AFAIK. Its caused by air pulsating in the slots as the pad clamp.

bruistopher

So it's pretty much safe to drive around the first few miles with that groaning or does it go away after certain miles driven? Because I think I bed them wrong. I stepped on the brake pedal rapidly on brake stops before doing normal slow brake stops like the bedding procedure said.

01tl4tl

new pads and rotors are made of many hills/mountains and valleys that have to grind into each other and mate to get full contact
You want to do normal braking for 500-1000 miles with some harder uses in there to get the process done.
NO ABS is the key to keeping them ok
then you can do the hardcore type bedding to transfer a layer of pad material to the rotor, for max stopping friction and longer pad life
Noise is to be expected during this break-in time and even some after with drilled rotors

make sure the sliders in the brackets for the pads end tabs- are clean and lubed with synthetic caliper grease, caliper pins same thing, and a dab on the back of the pads.
all bolts at exact torque- overtight can bind calipers

01tl4tl

make sure the rear pads are the correct ones- several makers use wrong backing plate.
rear brakes- inner pad- was there a raised tab on each end,total 2,
or was there an additional tab, top center edge?
if 3 tabs= remove pads and get rid of center tab with a grinder

that tab causes the pad to extend crooked and only contact half the rotor width when applied!!
will make noise and funny braking

01tl4tl

you did make sure the rotors are on the correct side of the car
an arrow ------> for forward, maybe L or R stamped on rotor hub, indicates position on car

backwards will fit but noise may be an issue

hANDYcaptd

iTrader: (5)

^ Their rotors don't have directional vanes. So it doesn't matter L/R.

01tl4tl

the external side vanes direction does matter and differs between makers as to which way it should run!

if it had internal curved cooling vanes- thats a different subject and very directional!

BUT
if it has side slots it should have an arrow

bruistopher

Yes, Powerstop marked the rotors and they were put on the right way. I just wanted to make sure that the rotors are suppose to make some noise at the beginning of the break in period.

I feel kinda relieved in a way. They braked real good this morning. No more warpage or shaking in the seat. And now the heat can escape quicker than before...

I will keep you guys posted throughout the days to let you know how they bed in.

bruistopher

Today I felt a light shake in the steering wheel. Not sure if my rotors are warped or is this part of the bedding process. The car stops perfectly...but just a light shake in the steering wheel.

Skirmich

I know my EBCs GDs does make a Wind Noise and they are perfectly normal Not Warped or Anything its kinda Wierd for the first 1000 miles but you will OR Have to get used to lol. I think it sounds cool now at first I didnt like it but now im used to it...

And no BUDDY they WILL make sound even when the Pads are Completely Bedded in, if you Wanted a Silent rotor then "Only Slotted" is the way to go. Drilled (or in My case Dimpled) is your enemy here if you wanted Ninja Silent Rotors.