Brake guy's ???
#1
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Brake guy's ???
with the brake and rotor posts lately, it has me in the mood to try and tackle my brake and rotor problem.
i have been having this problem for quite a while. and it all started after i replaced my pads when i purchased the vehicle. i replaced them because they were making all kinds a annoying grinding sounds wich had me believe that the pads were due for changing. soooo i replace them and everything is fine for about a week or two. well then my car began to shake as i would break wich made me believe the rotors were warrped and needed changing as well. i bought it used and didnt think anything of it. well the problem was fixed for another week or two, the warpped feeling came back. so i replaced all four rotors and pads. well after doing that, a week or two later it happens again and it has been this way for quite some time now. the only thing that i can think is that one or both of the front calipers are bad.
what do you guys think? calipers? glazed pads? im at my wits end with it.
i will mention that i believe that i hear a slight grinding sound (metal to metal) when im driving at slow speeds with a window open.
is there anything else that it could be? my last resort was to replace the factory rotors with the legend caliper and replace fluid. any help would be nice
i have been having this problem for quite a while. and it all started after i replaced my pads when i purchased the vehicle. i replaced them because they were making all kinds a annoying grinding sounds wich had me believe that the pads were due for changing. soooo i replace them and everything is fine for about a week or two. well then my car began to shake as i would break wich made me believe the rotors were warrped and needed changing as well. i bought it used and didnt think anything of it. well the problem was fixed for another week or two, the warpped feeling came back. so i replaced all four rotors and pads. well after doing that, a week or two later it happens again and it has been this way for quite some time now. the only thing that i can think is that one or both of the front calipers are bad.
what do you guys think? calipers? glazed pads? im at my wits end with it.
i will mention that i believe that i hear a slight grinding sound (metal to metal) when im driving at slow speeds with a window open.
is there anything else that it could be? my last resort was to replace the factory rotors with the legend caliper and replace fluid. any help would be nice
Last edited by ice2fire11; 11-17-2008 at 12:53 PM.
#2
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Ok which brake pads did you get? Why did you by a used rotor??? You might need to adjust or replace your calipers or the brake line. Do feel the car shake when your braking or you just hear a grinding sound????
#3
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i bought the CAR used. sorry
i used raybestos for everything
after replacing the brakes and rotors it was fine for about a week or so - no vibration while braking. and then after that week or so it would vibrate only when braking from high speeds. and it would fet worse and wrose and now it vibrates like crazy if i brake at all
and the grinding sound im hearing is with me rolling and not hitting the brakes at a very slow speed. btw the grinding sound pulses almost like the rotors touching something and with it being warrped it pulses off and on and as i gain speed it becomes quicker and qucker until i cant hear it anymore (confusing?)
i used raybestos for everything
after replacing the brakes and rotors it was fine for about a week or so - no vibration while braking. and then after that week or so it would vibrate only when braking from high speeds. and it would fet worse and wrose and now it vibrates like crazy if i brake at all
and the grinding sound im hearing is with me rolling and not hitting the brakes at a very slow speed. btw the grinding sound pulses almost like the rotors touching something and with it being warrped it pulses off and on and as i gain speed it becomes quicker and qucker until i cant hear it anymore (confusing?)
#4
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Bring it to your mechanic and check if the brake pads were installed correctly, they might be loose. Double check the rotors to see if they move, if they move I think you might have to change the knuckle, the front arm or hub assembly that connects to the rotors. Im not 100% but bring it to a mechanic they should be able to help.
#5
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With the age of these cars now i wouldnt be shocked if you had a bad caliper.
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thats really the only thing i can think of that could be making this keep hapening over and over again. i think the grinding noise is the brake on the rotor that isnt fully extended and with me doing nothing but highway driving, it heats up and warps the rotor. and i cant be for sure, but i wanna say it pulls to one side when i brake as well.
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#9
Both my rear calipers seized this year and caused a grinding and high pitched noise. You could see the score marks from constant pad contact w/ the rotor. I could feel the drag and pulsating.
MAKE SURE TO HAVE THE TECH OR YOU CHECK THE ROTORS for warpage. Not just visually check because that doesn't do jack crap, but use whatever technical instrument they use. Mine should have been replaced the last time the caliper seized, but they weren't because the tech said "they were fine". I can haz shakes?? No fun.
(And torque those lug nuts properly yourself. Shops love to use that air gun to tighten to 4 gazillion lb/ft. Way to warp rotors.)
MAKE SURE TO HAVE THE TECH OR YOU CHECK THE ROTORS for warpage. Not just visually check because that doesn't do jack crap, but use whatever technical instrument they use. Mine should have been replaced the last time the caliper seized, but they weren't because the tech said "they were fine". I can haz shakes?? No fun.
(And torque those lug nuts properly yourself. Shops love to use that air gun to tighten to 4 gazillion lb/ft. Way to warp rotors.)
#10
bringin lead
do a search and you'll find people are swapping the stock TL front calipers with those from a 1995 legend - i can't remember the part numbers. i did this swap and recommend it to anyone replacing calipers.
#11
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Hey ice2fire11, i just did my pads and got the front rotors resurfaced because of a slight vibration at highway speeds when I brake. I tested it out the other day and I still have the same issue I was confused just like you and really still am. I also have a sound that comes from the front as if something is warped and or rubbing, it howls somewhat and when I turn its more noticeable. Im going crazy just havent had the time to get it checked out, our situation sounds similar, if you find out what it is do let me know.
#12
bringin lead
Hey ice2fire11, i just did my pads and got the front rotors resurfaced because of a slight vibration at highway speeds when I brake. I tested it out the other day and I still have the same issue I was confused just like you and really still am. I also have a sound that comes from the front as if something is warped and or rubbing, it howls somewhat and when I turn its more noticeable. Im going crazy just havent had the time to get it checked out, our situation sounds similar, if you find out what it is do let me know.
#13
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My brakes are new, all that has been handled so don't trip I'm not going to smack you. - really don't think the noise I have is related to my brakes. I feel like bearings or axles is more like it. I ain't trying to post jack but I'm getting to the point where I'm just going to fork the cash and someone look at it. On turns it makes a noise as if it rubs or something is warped, going straight it howls and makes my ride noisy. Anyone ever herd of something like that?
#14
If a caliper is hanging up it can stay partially on, causing pad drag, or push funny or be weak and cause serious shake the wheel out of your hand vibrations, felt thru the steering wheel more than the brake pedal
Rotor warpage is felt in the pedal too
A slight noise may be heard as the pads and rotors get to know each other but should go away
Was everything properly cleaned and greased?
Change the brake fluid if not done yet
carefully observe the color of the fluid coming out
If its grey you are likely to have a problem and need calipers
for those in need- 1995 Legend LS-C, raybestos #frc 10627 & frc10628
see the many post on install- car stops way better for same price as TL calipers, about 75 each/rebuilt, can be found for less on some brands/stores
Rotor warpage is felt in the pedal too
A slight noise may be heard as the pads and rotors get to know each other but should go away
Was everything properly cleaned and greased?
Change the brake fluid if not done yet
carefully observe the color of the fluid coming out
If its grey you are likely to have a problem and need calipers
for those in need- 1995 Legend LS-C, raybestos #frc 10627 & frc10628
see the many post on install- car stops way better for same price as TL calipers, about 75 each/rebuilt, can be found for less on some brands/stores
#16
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If a caliper is hanging up it can stay partially on, causing pad drag, or push funny or be weak and cause serious shake the wheel out of your hand vibrations, felt thru the steering wheel more than the brake pedal
Rotor warpage is felt in the pedal too
A slight noise may be heard as the pads and rotors get to know each other but should go away
Was everything properly cleaned and greased?
Change the brake fluid if not done yet
carefully observe the color of the fluid coming out
If its grey you are likely to have a problem and need calipers
for those in need- 1995 Legend LS-C, raybestos #frc 10627 & frc10628
see the many post on install- car stops way better for same price as TL calipers, about 75 each/rebuilt, can be found for less on some brands/stores
Rotor warpage is felt in the pedal too
A slight noise may be heard as the pads and rotors get to know each other but should go away
Was everything properly cleaned and greased?
Change the brake fluid if not done yet
carefully observe the color of the fluid coming out
If its grey you are likely to have a problem and need calipers
for those in need- 1995 Legend LS-C, raybestos #frc 10627 & frc10628
see the many post on install- car stops way better for same price as TL calipers, about 75 each/rebuilt, can be found for less on some brands/stores
to be honest with you, no. every time ive done it i was in a rush - using someone elses bay. but im going to try to set aside some time on friday and check everything if i can again. i def want to try the legend calipers. so im kinda excited and frustrated again. so we will see what happens. if this doesnt work than i give up. thanks for your responce.
with the fluid being gray. what would be the problem to make it that color?
#18
search internet for = hygroscopic
that explains hydraulic fluids ability to suck moisture from the air - right past cap orings!!
All the oils do it to a degree, but also are moving fluids- so heat gets rid of the moisture.
the brakes dont do that~
I cant imagine the single piston TL caliper being an upgrade for anything!
Legend LS-Coupe have 2 smaller pistons- spreading the total force across the pad much better- result improved braking power
grey fluid is toast and may be eating the o-ring that seals the caliper piston-- and makes it work
Flush it and see what you get out
Best to remove caliper with bracket- place 2x4 inside so piston cant pop out, gently apply brake pedal and watch motion of piston
open bleeder and squeeze piston -square/straight back in.,, repeat a few times to see what exactly is sticking.
If there is rust and pitting on the cylinder bore (not the bottem/inside of the piston that is visable) but the actual caliper cylinder- you need fresh calipers
that explains hydraulic fluids ability to suck moisture from the air - right past cap orings!!
All the oils do it to a degree, but also are moving fluids- so heat gets rid of the moisture.
the brakes dont do that~
I cant imagine the single piston TL caliper being an upgrade for anything!
Legend LS-Coupe have 2 smaller pistons- spreading the total force across the pad much better- result improved braking power
grey fluid is toast and may be eating the o-ring that seals the caliper piston-- and makes it work
Flush it and see what you get out
Best to remove caliper with bracket- place 2x4 inside so piston cant pop out, gently apply brake pedal and watch motion of piston
open bleeder and squeeze piston -square/straight back in.,, repeat a few times to see what exactly is sticking.
If there is rust and pitting on the cylinder bore (not the bottem/inside of the piston that is visable) but the actual caliper cylinder- you need fresh calipers
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search internet for = hygroscopic
that explains hydraulic fluids ability to suck moisture from the air - right past cap orings!!
All the oils do it to a degree, but also are moving fluids- so heat gets rid of the moisture.
the brakes dont do that~
I cant imagine the single piston TL caliper being an upgrade for anything!
Legend LS-Coupe have 2 smaller pistons- spreading the total force across the pad much better- result improved braking power
grey fluid is toast and may be eating the o-ring that seals the caliper piston-- and makes it work
Flush it and see what you get out
Best to remove caliper with bracket- place 2x4 inside so piston cant pop out, gently apply brake pedal and watch motion of piston
open bleeder and squeeze piston -square/straight back in.,, repeat a few times to see what exactly is sticking.
If there is rust and pitting on the cylinder bore (not the bottem/inside of the piston that is visable) but the actual caliper cylinder- you need fresh calipers
that explains hydraulic fluids ability to suck moisture from the air - right past cap orings!!
All the oils do it to a degree, but also are moving fluids- so heat gets rid of the moisture.
the brakes dont do that~
I cant imagine the single piston TL caliper being an upgrade for anything!
Legend LS-Coupe have 2 smaller pistons- spreading the total force across the pad much better- result improved braking power
grey fluid is toast and may be eating the o-ring that seals the caliper piston-- and makes it work
Flush it and see what you get out
Best to remove caliper with bracket- place 2x4 inside so piston cant pop out, gently apply brake pedal and watch motion of piston
open bleeder and squeeze piston -square/straight back in.,, repeat a few times to see what exactly is sticking.
If there is rust and pitting on the cylinder bore (not the bottem/inside of the piston that is visable) but the actual caliper cylinder- you need fresh calipers
you might be right as i havent done the swap in the longest.. probly is legend. but type r caliper is single also.
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does this hold true if i replace with different pads as well? i just dont want to run into any problems when i go to replace them. i think when i had it looked up it said that it came with pads, but if not i was going to pick up some.
Last edited by ice2fire11; 11-19-2008 at 11:52 AM.
#23
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These are the raybestos calipers that are the least expensive; however, they have gone up since I last checked by $8.00. (were $72.99; now $78.99)
FRC10627; FRC10628
http://www.partsamerica.com/productd...e=5003&PTSet=A
Go here if you buy online & get 15% off each, which helps.
http://www.icetab.com/partsamerica-coupon.html
Shipping is free on orders over $75.
FRC10627; FRC10628
http://www.partsamerica.com/productd...e=5003&PTSet=A
Go here if you buy online & get 15% off each, which helps.
http://www.icetab.com/partsamerica-coupon.html
Shipping is free on orders over $75.
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