I completed the BAYA swap. At first still put out po745 code I believe. Check things, cleared codes. Acted goofy as every time I went from out of drive to park or R came back to flashing D5, cel and tcs light. Finally it started to cooperate and went on several test runs with normal operation except a faint double clutch effect when put in drive. Witch I had gotten used to before the swap. Decided on extended test run, went into limp mode just before I hit the highway. Was lucky enough to make u turn , then went into no go at all mode. Was able to shut off and clear codes while in drive, barley able to limp back to shop. PCM is under suspect.
Manual swap is being considered, or just part it out. Or BURN IT, idk. Crazy situation. Any view points would be appreciated! ​​​​​​​
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How did you source the Av6 trans.?
Maybe they (salvage yard; online vendor) have some kind of warranty?

 

Since it's not to be installed in Accord, no warranty from any supplier. It was pulled from wrecked Accord..

And I knew this before hand.

I reckon we will pull engine and transmission again and dismantle transmission or pull PCM and send off, idkThey're both expensive and could be both.
Not as costly as mT swap tho.

 

Yeah, you'd need to acquire something cheap like the donor car below.
Damaged Acura Cl Car For Sale And Auction | 19UYA41623A007817 (erepairables.com)
Lots of critical 6MT 'swap' parts are no longer available.

 

Interesting but it's in New Hampshire! I'm in KC.
I think dismantling the BAYA and check internal filter for clog since I've seen several post now about that. I really don't want a manual but I do want dependable. I can eat the labor
appreciate the reply Zeta!

 

So If you install it in an accord, you think it will work then? I'd take it back without opening it or removing and inspecting anything. Tell them it was DOA. If you told them that it's going into another car, I would suggest not to do such things in the future.

 

Lying is not how I roll. What goes around comes around.
I'll figure it out without all that drama.
Not helpful.

 

Interesting. What’s the actual DTC? P0745 isn’t in the service manual.

 

I'm going to shop tomorrow and will check what code or codes and write them down. Original was shift solenoid b short. And then one other by the time it was disabled.
WE checked all connections , cleaned all grounds, and pulled solenoids ,check omhs and click function was good. Found Co in Florida will test, repair and program PCM for 295 , so as to rule that out. Then proceed. If the BAYA needs rebuilt, that would be next I reckon. At least my lead mechanic is hydrologic surgeon and kit should not be to expensive, I hope..lol

 

It's not in the CL Service Manual either.
P0745:
P0745 - Acura Diagnostic Trouble Code (DTC) Definition, Causes and Diagnosis (dtcdecode.com)

 

I must be mistaken on the code #, but I do remember the description was as I stated. I will recheck tomorrow. In research I did find conflicting exploded diagrams calling out the location of A and B shift solenoids. So I checked them all , I had already replaced them on the B7WA. There's more history which I did not go into in the mysterious operations and intermittent failure of the B7WA . The last failure prompted the AV6 swap . In between fails I got 10k miles without fail. I've had the car right at 2 full years and problems started with tranni within about 3 months. Thought the B7 was fixed until Feb 2022 shortly after I drove it to Key Largo for new Years. 3,000 miles in 10 days. Was prepared to leave it roadside if it broke down, but it didn't fail, got us home...da da da.

 

I'm not a Honda guy, this is first experience other than maintenance . I'm old school , but needed a car with good AC for wife , as medical necessity. Nice car or boat anchor, won't fix itself...lol
thanks for the interest and thoughts.
Chris

 

Cleared codes this morning and started car. Found my notes from before codes po753 and unrelated p1457 which I planned to address later. Now after swap PO 753 and new po131 low voltage bank one, sensor one . My mech said that might be one of the o2 . Dash was lit up with srs, tcs, cel and flashing D5. Trans did engage with slight double clutch as always. Shut it off and removed PCM. Mailed it off to Auto PCMS in FL to verify condition and update any of the programming. I should get it back in about week to ten days.
I will work on other project in the interim, final stages of rebuild of 02 Indian Power Plus Roadmaster. Another factory lemon with many problems, I can sure pick em ..lol. Indian filed for bankruptcy in 03 shortly after my purchase.

 

Have you seen this post?

https://acurazine.com/forums/second-.../#post15096153

found it by searching google:

https://www.google.com/search?q=p075...Aacurazine.com

Of course it's wishful thinking that this could be as simple as a ground connection; but you never know...do have more than one clutch pressure control Solenoid Valve A+B? The big expensive one on top I believe...if they both show same symptoms than I'd look at ground a little further... just my

 

G151:

 

po131 - Before you replace the first O2 sensor (the one before the cat) check to make sure there are no exhaust leaks in anywhere in the exhaust system.
p1457- Common, check the gas cap and around the gas tank for rust through. Many times it is just the cap seal. Don't go aftermarket, tried several once they did not work, put in OEM and problem went away.

 

I had not seen that post specifically, it's been a year since I read thru the old stuff. Cleaned each ground as we installed wiring harness. I will do that again, I do understand the importance of this. I have replaced the dual linear and single linear with OEM before swap and put them on the BAYA.
With ignition on my mechanic put finger on solenoids as I shifted thru gears, he could feel clicks. Thru a website SCRIBD I found the boulean chart for valve operation, complicated, but I was looking for pinout of PCM. But it did explain some of the complicated valve operation involving inertia, and g-force anticipation for gears. Anyway..
thanks so much guys ! I will check all again.

 

Installed PCM this morning, check all grounds and charging circuit. All good there. started up immediately got P0753. .cleared code and repeated several times. Still just the 0753 code and in limp mode. Obtained pin out diagram from PCM to all solenoids and sensors. Verified wiring to all solenoids by color code. Tomorrow I will sub in different A solenoid and run.. heck idk will try various test I reckon. With that code I take it is not the AB linear solenoid valve. Idk.
just doesn't make sense.

 

It is not be the big dual linear solenoid. It is the solenoid under the starter that has the black connector. So you get this P0753 code as soon as you start the car and are in Park? You do not attempt to shift?

 

That is correct , in any combination I tried, immediate flashing D5, and all others. I did check for engagement at various times but only reved and slight forward motion, mostly no go . But did seem to engage in reverse...
when we verified wiring by color code, the solenoids under starter are B on top of C according to schematic..hem?
As I mentioned before , discrepancy in exploded diagrams as to notation of solenoids. That's why we are going off the schematic of the PCM pinout. But heck I'll try subbing that one out too.

 

Are we talking a 2000-2003 TL 5 speed automatic? The P0753 code is:

Unless I am looking at the wrong transmission the manual shows the following:





The dual solenoid is the Clutch pressure control solenoids A and B, the code is calling out for the shift solenoid A.
I could be wrong but I think this is the solenoid to which the P0753 code is referring.

 

I'm definitely inclined to go with the location you gave me for solenoid A. Experience is wisdom.
thanks Jon
Your diagram came up just as I posted.
so it's A over C . And yes 2003 TL pI will double-check the color code of wiring and compare .

 

LOL. I don't know if I have enough experience or wisdom. There are many people on here that know so much, I learn with each post I read. I just keep trying. If this is a BAYA replacement, what was the fluid like? Was this unit from a car that was struck in the front? I know you been checking out the PCM, did you ring out the No. 6 (15A) fuse in the driver’s fuse box? It is strange you get the error right after you start the car. It points to a bad solenoid (hopefully outside the transmission) or an electrical short or missing ground. As Zeta has already pointed you to the G151 ground and you checked it out, you have looked at the outputs from the PCM, you should be able to see 12V on the solenoid itself and even feel it move once 12V is present.
Hopefully others have more to add. Good Luck, I hope you find it soon.

 

It really shouldn't be this hard.

I will check that fuse, I noticed that on the schematic.
I got the BAYA from a roll over wreck at a salvage yard. I actually looked at the carcas . The fluid looked decently pink with no smell of burn. I have couple other things to check also and will continue on I reckon.
Thanks to all ! I appreciate the info and thoughts!

 

Ground to positive C plug

No ground to positive A plug
After various subbing of solenoid A and getting no change.
we checked positive and neg at wiring connection plug for A and got no ground from plug A. A and C share ground back to the G151 , so we jumped good ground from C to A . .walaa. no blinking D5 . Thank goodness! Test drive seems good!
Will replace upstream O2 sensor that probably got stressed when we pulled engine and transmission on sat and test drive more. The diagram you sent does match color code on schematic from PCM. That small ground wire was probably intermittent and is why periods of no fail.in the past
thanks for all the help! Maby it will pan out...lol

 

I still have to refresh on how to clear the SRS light and the TCS light. Will do another fluid change also.

 

Congratulations. TCS light can just be the TCS button. Not a clue on the SRS but I think sometimes it comes on with the TCS light.

 

The airbag light sometimes comes on with the TCS light? Every logical ounce of me is saying that's not good!

 

Thanks Jon and whitetiger5 , your input helps me think things through along with a feeling like I'm not alone.
this has been the most social media of my life really and how lucky for me to have Great experience!
I will post updates.
Sincerely, ol rooferchris

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Both on Utube, done the SRS before.
no biggies

 

Some people use a paper clip in place of the 'tool' indicated in the text:

 

Yes indeed! Thanks zeta!
Now I have it handy.

 

Rain rain practically all day Thurs. Replaced O2, cleared codes. All lights off. Test run for about 20 min , thru manual shifting all seemed good. Test run sat for about 40 minutes and 25 miles. I decided no time like the present so left my truck at shop and headed for hiway. About 24 miles to my exit, soon as I came to stop at exit lost lockup and no go .
turning key off and restart got enough lockup to get thru 2 nd gear then lost lockup , coast to stop shut key off and restart again. Took about 9 restarts like that to get to my drive, goodnesss! ... CE light , only code now P0730 improper gear ratio ,or to that effect. Today Drain and fill to proper level, it did have almost 3/4 qt overfill somehow. Correct now , cleared code ,, test run just down the street with same symptoms, restarted only once to get back to house. But did not have any CEL . Loud clicks when shifted to park, about like slow grinding to get into park. Guess I will pull and clean some solenoids. Fluid was pretty dark and light layer of gunk over the mag plug. Start the ride again..lolI did preliminary continuity check of the wiring plugs to solenoid B and C on top side under radiator hoses.. kinda scratching my head on that. They don't test out same as the A over C in the front under starter. I will do that again.

 

When you swapped this out what torque converter did you use? Was it a new or rebuilt unit? You mentioned once that you were opening the unit and replacing the internal filter, did you do this or did you decide not to do it? Was the fluid dark then or when you drained it before installing?
Are the speed sensors OK. These are the black ones with a single o-ring, one mounted on the front right side of the transmission and one is mounted by the fill plug on top of the transmission. Check wiring etc.

 

Yeah, I used the TC that came with the BAYA from 06 07 rollover wreck. Just followed the swap directions.
I just stabbed it in, changed fluid and filter.. it's all a crap shoot. I have new shaft sensors from the B7WA to put on it.
Kinda understand the wiring on top solenoids now. Been checking wiring for any infestations and condition.


I split the plastic and removed.


Stripped the loom off and inspected all.

Clutch valve plug and B valve plug have no black wire in common with A or C on front under starter..the schematic shows black wire in common..not!
I will remove clutch valve and B valve to make sure screens are clear. I removed both linears and inspected, looked clean new. They were new from B7WA.
I'll put it all back together after I replace the 2 speed sensors.
See what it does again. I'll probably end up rebuilding this BAYA Idk,

 

To go from " all good" to no go after about an hour of driving is crazy.
That's the mechanics of things.
Lol

 

I agree with the crap shoot. Once you swapped the remaining items you eliminated all of the minor things I can think of, all that is left is the TC and the Tranny. Maybe someone else has another idea, but from all that read here if the solenoids, wiring, and sensor changeout don't work it is time for the big items.
When it is running do you hear a pitched whine or a thunking sound coming from around the TC?

 

Just curious, what sort of issue would a 'pitched whine' sound indicate? TC problems?

 

Your correct. That would be one indication of a TC problem being either shot or not enough fluid getting pumped through (which leads to the damage we see in the TL's).

 

I have not heard any whining from tranni.
And I agree that would indicate something.
But it is quiet.