ChucksCL-S

Looking to get new rotors and want to see if anyone has had good luck with a certain brand; also I wouldn't mind getting a slotted set. Looking for fronts only. I just want a brand that won't warp for awhile. Thanks.

`ill*tl

I would say Rotora slotted rotors but @cur@-TL says they warp. I have heard good things about Wilwood rotors, check them out at: http://www.wilwood.com.

ou sig

How do you know if your rotors are warped??? I have a '99 TL, and if they are, is it really that bad? I just really have no idea about brakes, so if I take the ride in, I want to have some background info so I dont get jacked with. Thanks

BTW I think this is my 100th post!!!

@cUr@-TL

yeah mine warped.. they are not that bad but still... i did everything i could to keep them away from warping. torqued my wheels at 80lbs, never washed the car when the brakes were hot, never braked hard... i really dont know why they warped.. but they did...


maybe you can try the ACP 2-pieces slotted rotors in the brake section of this site



@cUr@-TL

`ill*tl

OU Sig, you know your rotors are warped when you feel a violent shaking of your wheel when breaking at high speeds. And as it gets worse, you'll feel the shaking at any speed, any time you break. Plus, you'll notice the car taking longer to break+you'll find yourself breaking harder to stop. BTW, congrats on your 100th post!

@cur@-TL, this just breaks my heart. I had thought getting new rotors+pads would fix the warped rotor problem. *sigh* .. what pads did you use w/the Rotora rotors?

ou sig

Hmmmm, thanks for the info. I really havent had to stop fast at high speeds so I dont know about that. I do know that there is shaking when I stop real fast at lower speeds....I assumed that was the Anti Lock system.

fsttyms1

you dont have to be going fast to feel it. if you are just simply applying the brakes and you feel a pulsing on the brake pedal, or the most obvious is the steering wheel will shake. its most appearant at hwy speeds when you slow down. the harder you brake the less appearant it is

Pure Adrenaline

iTrader: (2)

www.RacingBrake.com

They have not yet a kit available for our cars, but I've gotten in touch with them and they are working on it. They said this spring, so I'm keeping my fingers crossed.

Slotted and drilled, a direct bolt-on (for the Accord). It's like 350 for a set of 4. I've heard nothing but good things about them. I'm definitely getting these as soon as they are released for my car.

If you guys are interested, I would recommend shooting them an E-mail and showing interest. It'll only help speed up the process when they see that people want these for the TL/CL.

Bitium

All brands and configurations will warped. I had 4 different sets and I'm convinced that that no matter what brand or configuration (slotted/crossdrilled/blank) they would still warped. The only think I have found to work is opening a hole in the fender linner so air could reach the rotors to cool them down. I made a post about it. Do a search. Good luck.

Severin

Actually, warping is not the only thing that will make your wheel shake while breaking:

When the pad material burns into the rotors it creates a material harder than the rotor itself. You can usually view this as the burned outline of the brake pad on the rotor (normally, you should see nothing).
When you apply the brakes, the pads catch on this material causing your wheels to alternately shake.
This is much more common than rotors warping. This has personally happened twice on my TL.

Turning the rotor simply cuts off the offending material.

Selecting the right pads and properly bedding them is the best way to protect against this.

Southern

When I was at the Chicago Auto Show the other week I took a good look at the Acrua NSX. I noticed that it had vent louvers in the fender linner and an opening in the front air dam to allow direct air flow to the front wheel wells.

I purchased some 6" round black plastic grates from Home Depot the other day and plan on cutting an opening in my fender linner to mount them. I also cut the openings in my front air dam (where the fog lights should have gone) to allow direct air flow.

Refer to Bitium's post - it is very informative.

ADI778899

I have a friend who works at an Acura dealership and took care of my old Integra for years. He said that it's a known problem on TL. Rotors are overheated because of the break pads compound that is too hard. Acura issued a TSB and changed the compound for the TL brake pads to fix the warped rotors problem. All dealerships should install only new types of brake pads with softer compound.

TLMugen

I've had good luck with KVR Performance drilled rotors, no noticeable warping or cracks yet. ADI118899 may be onto something. I run EBC greenstuff pads which are supposed to be really easy on rotors so maybe that's why I've been lucky. Like Bitium said, maybe it doesn't matter what rotors you use...

Maybe the secret is in the pads.
:think:

Dare_IL

Here is some information on warped rotors. This site http://www.ceramicbrakes.com/whitepa...otors_myth.htm has some really good information

Myth # 1 – BRAKE JUDDER AND VIBRATION IS CAUSED BY DISCS THAT HAVE BEEN WARPED FROM EXESSIVE HEAT.


The term "warped brake disc" has been in common use in motor racing for decades. When a driver reports a vibration under hard braking, inexperienced crews, after checking for (and not finding) cracks often attribute the vibration to "warped discs". They then measure the disc thickness in various places, find significant variation and the diagnosis is cast in stone.

When disc brakes for high performance cars arrived on the scene we began to hear of "warped brake discs" on road going cars, with the same analyses and diagnoses. Typically, the discs are resurfaced to cure the problem and, equally typically, after a relatively short time the roughness or vibration comes back. Brake roughness has caused a significant number of cars to be bought back by their manufacturers under the "lemon laws". This has been going on for decades now - and, like most things that we have cast in stone, the diagnoses are wrong.

With one qualifier, presuming that the hub and wheel flange are flat and in good condition and that the wheel bolts or hat mounting hardware is in good condition, installed correctly and tightened uniformly and in the correct order to the recommended torque specification, in more than 40 years of professional racing, including the Shelby/Ford GT 40s – one of the most intense brake development program in history

- I have never seen a warped brake disc. I have seen lots of cracked discs, (FIGURE 1) discs that had turned into shallow cones at operating temperature because they were mounted rigidly to their attachment bells or top hats, (FIGURE 2) a few where the friction surface had collapsed in the area between straight radial interior vanes, (FIGURE 3) and an untold number of discs with pad material unevenly deposited on the friction surfaces - sometimes visible and more often not. (FIGURE 4)

In fact every case of "warped brake disc" that I have investigated, whether on a racing car or a street car, has turned out to be friction pad material transferred unevenly to the surface of the disc. This uneven deposition results in thickness variation (TV) or run-out due to hot spotting that occurred at elevated temperatures.

fsttyms1

these are mine

Dare_IL

Looks like a cracked one to me. Just like the website said, no warps but cracks.

fsttyms1

actuall i have warped rotors. i took a pair off after a day at the track and brought them to a friends machiene shop and they mounted them and miked them and 1 rotor had a 1/16 rise in the metal (which was the reason it had a VIOLENT shake)

songoku

After I had numerous problme with warped rotors, the dealer finally decided putting one of this on my 00 TL. They said these are ACURA proven rotors which I believe it's BS. :p

@cUr@-TL

i used the recommended axxis ultimates.

sometimes the rotors feel good but sometimes they shake a bit... maybe it's not the rotors i dunno...

@cUr@-TL

UWgrad

to help keep your rotors from warping...do not wash you car right after you get home...wait until they totally cool off before you wash..and also park in the shade. also when at a stop light, after coming to a full stop..move the car up a couple inches to let the area that was covered by the brake pad have a chance to cool off to match the rest of the rotors surface area...good luck

Vicman17

I had what I thought was premature "warping" but was actually rusting on the rear rotors after the car was delivered and PDI'd.

So far (18,000 kms) the brakes are still AOK. A friend who is the head mechanic at D/T Acura service stated that they allow the cars to cool off before giving it a wash and and that the lugs are torqued properly @ 80 ft/ lbs. These are the only things he recommends to keep the rotors in good shape.

I'm thinking since the car is FF, the weight distribution makes the car front heavy during heavy braking that the rotors overheat. One of the brake gurus here stated before that it only takes one emergency stop from high speed to make the rotors warp.

ayrtonsweb

I got so tired of P....ng money on warping rotors of which i tried 3 types. My friend works at an auto parts place and suggest I buy new rotors and pad and ice them using nitrogen.
Tehy do this alot for fleets. I'm buying brembro rotors and maybe wagner thermal quiet pad but not sure about the pad yet. This is a local place but there are others around especially in the US.
http://www.cryo-ice.net/applications_benefits.html

http://www.300below.com/cryo-process...ke-rotors.html

Hope this is the answer

6MTUA5

iTrader: (2)

I"m sure that they're not looking for an answer still since the last post on here was over 3 years ago

01tl4tl

Anyone looking for the awesome rotors needs to see the RacingBrake brand carried by vendor MrHeelToe or see site www.racingbrake.com for tech info- these blow away the competition