vipvop

I upgraded my brakes to irotors slotted/drilled rotors and hawk HPS pads about 2 weeks ago. I was thinking I'd feel a huge improvement since my pads were pretty much completely used and my rotors were horribly warped, but it feels like my new pads don't stop as fast. Actually, it feels more like I have to press the brake pedal down harder to get the pads to really start working, if that makes sense. Am I imagining this, or is this common? Anyone else have these pads? I was wondering if they have a break in period or anything like that (I did bed them in properly when I first got them installed)...

kent_99TL

Did you bleed the brake system also? If not there maybe air in your brake line which costing the soft pedal.

sc354

honestly, don't make the same mistake I did after having my rotors replaced. Be sooooo damn gentle on the car for atleast 300 miles, if the problem persists, then have it checked out. Please don't do what I did. I had an amazing pedal feel right after I had the brakes re-done. I was soooo damn impatient that I did a couple panic stops, and totally f*cked up the feel on the pedal. Next time I have my brakes replaced, it's grandma time for a week or so.

shimbo519

did you break in ur new rotors properly? When i changed my rotors and pads, i didnt feel the 'bite' of hte pads til after a week of breakin them in...

sc354

trust me listen to us. Don't put strain on your brakes. Your pads need to settle in properly, and once they're properly sitting in place and ready to grip the rotor, let the braking begin!!!

2007AcuraRL

Some pads are designed to work better when they heat up and are geared more for a track vehicle than on a daily driver. I have Hawk pads too on my TL and the braking is fine. (I went with Brembo blanks.) I know there are 2 kinds of Hawk performance pads and one of them is designed for the track and racing, while the other is for the everyday roads. Check tirerack.com as there is a description of each of the Hawk pads intended applications listed there.

samkws

haha
maybe u got the cheap midas' brake pads~ =P

Allout

Here's a burnisishing process I use. Step 6 is the burnishing process:

http://www.myroadster.net/6_Steps_to_Quiet_Brakes.asp

6 Steps to Quiet Brakes

#1 Smooth and true rotor friction surfaces . . .
Turn rotors if warped (runout greater than .002”) or grooved. For best results use GWR Round Cutting Bits. Mark each rotor and one wheel stud so rotors can be remounted in their original position.

#2 Prepare rotor friction surfaces with a Cross-hatch pattern . . .

Use *Flex-hone tool with lathe on new, turned or used rotors to create a cross hatch pattern. Rotor must be mounted and spinning on a brake lathe. Flex-hone should be used with an angle head electric drill, turning at 800 RPM.

If Flex-hone is unavailable, use 120 grit wet dry black sandpaper with a rubber sanding block. Use a new piece of sand paper for each rotor side. Sand friction surfaces in clock-wise and counterclockwise directions. Dunk in soap and water often. Spend at least 3 minutes per side.

#3. Use GWR Brake Soap and Water to Clean Rotors . . .

Scrub friction surfaces with a stiff plastic bristle brush dipped in GWR Brake Soap and water. Washing removes fine imbedded metal particles and demagnetizes the rotor. Rinse thoroughly with clean water and allow rotors to air dry.

#4 Lightly Spray GWR “Silencer” conditioner onto friction surfaces of rotors . . .

Shake “Silencer” can for about 10 seconds to disperse solids inside the can - then spray a light even coat onto each prepared, dry, rotor friction surface. Do Not spray brake pads. Each small can of Silencer treats two rotors - inside and outside friction surfaces.

#5. Coat metal to metal contact points with Pastelub-2400 lubricant . . .



Use Pastelub-2400 Ultra high temperature synthetic dry film lubricant.

To lightly Coat:

A. Piston Face and Metal backing plate of pads

B. Guide landing ears, and all bracket mount points

C. The Hat area at the center of the rotor where rotor meets spindle.

(Be sure to clean any rust from these areas before applying lubricant.)

D. Any metal to metal contact points not mentioned above.



#6 Breaking in, the “Burnishing Process” . . .



After prepared and treated rotors are re-installed to their original positions, test drive the vehicle braking very gently from 20 mph to 5 mph without coming to a stop. Repeat 10 times. Then brake normally from 40 mph to 10 mph. Repeat 10 times. Allow one-half mile cool off between slow downs. No “panic stops” for the first 300 miles. If you are breaking in new rotors, park your car for one hour, after above slow down cycles. A gradual cool down, for one hour, avoids warping your rotors.

Why Burnishing Works…
A gradual break-in burnish reduces brake vibration and noise by controlling the pressures and temperatures new pads are exposed to. A 20 pound rotor brings a lot of heat to a 3 pound brake pad. Pads that are pushed too hard during break-in will over heat, glaze, become too hard, deeply groove rotors, cause vibration, noise, and not perform well. Using these 6 Steps with GWR products will reduce the possibility of brake noise, and improve braking torque performance up to 8%. A more detailed description of GWRs brake products can be found at www.StopBrakeNoise.com.

GWR’s “Silencer Kit”, enough to treat 4 rotors, is available for $19.95 from MyRoadster.Net, and includes Brake Soap, Silencer rotor conditioning spray and Pastelub 2400 lubricant. This same “Silencer Kit” is included at no charge to customers who purchase Porterfield Brake pads through MyRoadster.Net

giovanni

sound like you have air in your brake lines...