99 TL with TypeS intake manifold is complete
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Originally Posted by fsttyms1
Question..... why are you waiting on the imrc?? Or are you talking about teh actuator??
#42
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the imrc is the electronic control thats mounted in the car. you running a standalode triger is all you need. So you need the actuator and cable then right?
#43
2001 J32A2 6Spd Accord EX
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Originally Posted by NSXNEXT
It was delivered today. ![Woot](https://acurazine.com/forums/images/smilies/woot.gif)
![](http://images.amazon.com/images/P/B000COOOG0.01._AA280_SCLZZZZZZZ_V52368705_.jpg)
Just waiting on the IMRC and all its parts.
![Woot](https://acurazine.com/forums/images/smilies/woot.gif)
![](http://images.amazon.com/images/P/B000COOOG0.01._AA280_SCLZZZZZZZ_V52368705_.jpg)
Just waiting on the IMRC and all its parts.
So when you install the rpm switch, are you planning to write a step by step instructions? It would be very helpful.
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Originally Posted by Silv_Accord_V6
So when you install the rpm switch, are you planning to write a step by step instructions? It would be very helpful.
I can certainly provide some guidance in installing the rpm switch and connecting it to the IMRC.
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Originally Posted by fsttyms1
the imrc is the electronic control thats mounted in the car. you running a standalode triger is all you need. So you need the actuator and cable then right?
Yeah it was a bit over $100 for all the parts, brackets, screws, cable and actuator.
The dealer lost my order so it looks like the install will have to wait till next week.
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#46
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Ok, if you just need a RPM signal you could try the tach test connector, which is a 2 pin connector near the air intake on the driver side shock tower. It is a blue wire and the polarity is AC. Here is a diagram too that might be helpful. It has the wire colors on the TPS which you could the RPM signal from too. This probably is the best place to get it from if I'm not mistaken. Now there are 3 wires on the TPS and I'm not sure which is the signal for the RPM. One will be power, one will be ground and one will be power.
![](http://i34.photobucket.com/albums/d121/Excelerate/acuratldiagram.jpg)
If you want me to email you the file so you can zoom in shoot me an email at excelerate@sbcglobal.net and I will email it back.
![](http://i34.photobucket.com/albums/d121/Excelerate/acuratldiagram.jpg)
If you want me to email you the file so you can zoom in shoot me an email at excelerate@sbcglobal.net and I will email it back.
#47
2001 J32A2 6Spd Accord EX
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Originally Posted by Excelerate
Ok, if you just need a RPM signal you could try the tach test connector, which is a 2 pin connector near the air intake on the driver side shock tower. It is a blue wire and the polarity is AC. Here is a diagram too that might be helpful. It has the wire colors on the TPS which you could the RPM signal from too. This probably is the best place to get it from if I'm not mistaken. Now there are 3 wires on the TPS and I'm not sure which is the signal for the RPM. One will be power, one will be ground and one will be power.
![](http://i34.photobucket.com/albums/d121/Excelerate/acuratldiagram.jpg)
If you want me to email you the file so you can zoom in shoot me an email at excelerate@sbcglobal.net and I will email it back.
![](http://i34.photobucket.com/albums/d121/Excelerate/acuratldiagram.jpg)
If you want me to email you the file so you can zoom in shoot me an email at excelerate@sbcglobal.net and I will email it back.
can you email me the files please? nst416@hotmail.com
#48
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I looked in the engine bay where you said the rpm signal wire would be located but I can't find it. Could you take a picture of it? I would really apreciate it if you can.
#49
2001 J32A2 6Spd Accord EX
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hey, just wired up my bypass valve actuator with the rpm switch. The good news is that it opens the valve in the manifold. Bad news is that, it doesn't shut the valve back . Unless I push it back myself . Any ideas?
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Aren't there two settings on the switch open and closed. What are your RPMs settings for each?
I haven't played with mine yet, but I'm gonna guess open is 3100 rpms and closed is 3000 rpms?
Are you using the MSD 8969?
Can you post some pics of where you tapped the rpm signal wire?
I haven't played with mine yet, but I'm gonna guess open is 3100 rpms and closed is 3000 rpms?
Are you using the MSD 8969?
Can you post some pics of where you tapped the rpm signal wire?
#51
2001 J32A2 6Spd Accord EX
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Originally Posted by NSXNEXT
Aren't there two settings on the switch open and closed. What are your RPMs settings for each?
I haven't played with mine yet, but I'm gonna guess open is 3100 rpms and closed is 3000 rpms?
Are you using the MSD 8969?
Can you post some pics of where you tapped the rpm signal wire?
I haven't played with mine yet, but I'm gonna guess open is 3100 rpms and closed is 3000 rpms?
Are you using the MSD 8969?
Can you post some pics of where you tapped the rpm signal wire?
and to answer your rpm signal question,
RPM signal
#52
2001 J32A2 6Spd Accord EX
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Originally Posted by NSXNEXT
Aren't there two settings on the switch open and closed. What are your RPMs settings for each?
I haven't played with mine yet, but I'm gonna guess open is 3100 rpms and closed is 3000 rpms?
Are you using the MSD 8969?
Can you post some pics of where you tapped the rpm signal wire?
I haven't played with mine yet, but I'm gonna guess open is 3100 rpms and closed is 3000 rpms?
Are you using the MSD 8969?
Can you post some pics of where you tapped the rpm signal wire?
and to answer your rpm signal question,
RPM signal
#53
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Hey Silv_Accord_V6,
Did you ever figure out your bypass valve problem. I think I may have the answer. I read on another forum to set the close rpm setting to something like 9000 rpms. Basically once it opens it will stay open. When it drops below the rpm setting for open, it will close.
Did you ever figure out your bypass valve problem. I think I may have the answer. I read on another forum to set the close rpm setting to something like 9000 rpms. Basically once it opens it will stay open. When it drops below the rpm setting for open, it will close.
#54
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![](http://static.summitracing.com/global/images/prod/large/msd-8969_w.jpg)
Wired it up and set it up to so it sends a voltage signal to the bypass valve actuator at 3800 rpm and it opens up the intake manifold to gain the full potential of the motor. When VTEC kicks in at 4800 rpm, the car pulls WAY HARDER than it did before when the actuator didn't work. I think I will take a video of it later and post it up.
Here are the pictures:
RPM signal from the 03 CL-S 6speed ECU
![](http://i33.photobucket.com/albums/d67/nst416/rpmsignal.jpg)
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![](http://i33.photobucket.com/albums/d67/nst416/rpm%20switch/th_MVI_0527.jpg)
#55
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Thanks. I think my wiring harness is different on the J32A1 so I'll have to check that out.
Then I gotta figure out when to activate it. I don't think it'll work with the setting from a TypeS.
Then I gotta figure out when to activate it. I don't think it'll work with the setting from a TypeS.
#56
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its weird that they have it open at such a low rpm. 3K isnt very high. Has any one set it to the open position all teh time to see if there is any side effect down low?
Also neil, i think the signal from the ecu for your car is still the blue wire, just on a different harness location
Also neil, i think the signal from the ecu for your car is still the blue wire, just on a different harness location
#57
'Big Daddy Diggler'
Originally Posted by NSXNEXT
OK so I have a question. Will the ECU recognize that the secondary intake opening since It's being opened via the rpm switch?
I'm assuming the ECU will recognize the increased air flow and adjust the fuel accordingly.
Anyone have any thoughts on that?
I'm assuming the ECU will recognize the increased air flow and adjust the fuel accordingly.
Anyone have any thoughts on that?
#58
'Big Daddy Diggler'
Originally Posted by fsttyms1
its weird that they have it open at such a low rpm. 3K isnt very high. Has any one set it to the open position all teh time to see if there is any side effect down low?
Also neil, i think the signal from the ecu for your car is still the blue wire, just on a different harness location
Also neil, i think the signal from the ecu for your car is still the blue wire, just on a different harness location
#59
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Originally Posted by bigman
The ecu should adjust for the extra amount of air, you'd be amazed how much the a/f changes and how much the ecu adjust to the changes. On a side note, in this case, it would have been a good idea to get the MDX intake manifold also. It outflows the tl-p manifold, and flows almost as well as the type s manifold with the second stage open. But the good part of it all is that it doesnt need to use an actuator.
Part #9 is the bypass valve actuator. I thought I remember reading something on another board that the MDX IM won't work on our car.
![](http://www.acuraoemparts.com/delray/jsp/catimgs/14s3v0_e0301.gif)
And for what I paid for my TypeS IM, it would have been significantly more money to get the MDX.
#60
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Originally Posted by NSXNEXT
Part #9 is the bypass valve actuator. I thought I remember reading something on another board that the MDX IM won't work on our car.
![](http://www.acuraoemparts.com/delray/jsp/catimgs/14s3v0_e0301.gif)
And for what I paid for my TypeS IM, it would have been significantly more money to get the MDX.
![](http://www.acuraoemparts.com/delray/jsp/catimgs/14s3v0_e0301.gif)
And for what I paid for my TypeS IM, it would have been significantly more money to get the MDX.
If I remember correctly it was a clearance issue with the mdx manifold. the hood will not close on our cars b/e the int mani. is too tall. I think the mdx manifold has a couple of spacers between the intake and the engine block, I could be mistaken but i think that was the issue.
#61
'Big Daddy Diggler'
Originally Posted by jleon2516
Hey Neil,
If I remember correctly it was a clearance issue with the mdx manifold. the hood will not close on our cars b/e the int mani. is too tall. I think the mdx manifold has a couple of spacers between the intake and the engine block, I could be mistaken but i think that was the issue.
If I remember correctly it was a clearance issue with the mdx manifold. the hood will not close on our cars b/e the int mani. is too tall. I think the mdx manifold has a couple of spacers between the intake and the engine block, I could be mistaken but i think that was the issue.
#62
Moderator Alumnus
I know this thread is old but I just put a Type-S IM on my 01 CL. I got the BVA and MSD switch to work but not really pleased with it. I'm just going to take the plates off to see if there is a difference.
#65
Moderator Alumnus
Originally Posted by jleon2516
I still havent install the rpm switch. Let me know what happens when you remove the plates.
https://acurazine.com/forums/showthr...7&page=2&pp=25
Chime in this discussion to if you want.
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#66
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I'm gonna start this up once more...that lower intake manifold is a BIATCH!!! I had to bend the studs on the front runners to get the front piece off. How the hell did you successfully get the damn thing off. (this is usually how I remove something, and then spend forever replacing the part).
The Type S manifold better be worth it...and another note...I am going to try running this without the plates.
GreenMachine, you replied to me saying you wanted that supercharger effect from the BVA opening up. I didn't mention the main difference that I am turbocharged. I think being open will actually benifit me more. We'll see, and if not I will get those parts.
And lastly, can you guys please give the next guy a step by step for removing that lower IM on the 99. Unless I am completely retarded, I couldn't find any reasonable way to get it off. And the manual was useless on this.
Thanks
The Type S manifold better be worth it...and another note...I am going to try running this without the plates.
GreenMachine, you replied to me saying you wanted that supercharger effect from the BVA opening up. I didn't mention the main difference that I am turbocharged. I think being open will actually benifit me more. We'll see, and if not I will get those parts.
And lastly, can you guys please give the next guy a step by step for removing that lower IM on the 99. Unless I am completely retarded, I couldn't find any reasonable way to get it off. And the manual was useless on this.
Thanks
#71
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From either a CLS or TLS
intake manifold
lower intake manifold (f&r) (a.k.a injector bases)
fuel rails (f&r)
12 fuel injectors
fuel pressure regulator
hoses from FPR to injectors
throttle body
air intake
Miscellaneous hoses, gaskets, clamps, bolts, nuts
You're going to need to get a piece of 3" aluminum tube to make up the gap between since you will not be using the VSA unit. The intake hose will be about 3 or 4" short.
#72
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does that go for the 2000 tl changing all those parts... becuz i got a whole 03 type s motor layin in the garage i just want to change the intake manny thats all... Do i got to do the same as the 99.. and 1 more thing can u activate thevalve actuator with the vtec???
#73
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You need to tap into the rpm signal maintenance port which is located near the driver's side shock tower (small yellowish plug with a black rubber boot over it).
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