I'll try to get some pictures up tonight, but in reality there's not much to see.

OK so first off, here are all the parts I needed to get the 99TL to accept the TypeS IM. Don't quote me on this, but I believe if you have an 00-03 TLP or 01-03CLP you will only need the upper and lower IMs. The fuel rails and FPR are the same as the TypeS.

- Upper intake manifold
It's technically 3 pieces front/rear and what they call top
If you call a junkyard be sure you get the entire IM



- Lower intake manifold
You cannot reuse the 99TL lower IM as the fuel rails do not fit. These are parts #10 and 12



You can reuse the gaskets from the lower IM but I went with new ones (no way I'm taking this apart again).

- Entire fuel system from the fuel pressure regulator to the fuel rails.
Yes they are different on the 99. You'll also need the fuel injectors. Hopefully they are in good shape and you can find them at a junkyard. They will run you about $50 a piece (read $300/set) if you go to the dealer.

Ok for the install, I didn't do a DIY because it was really more trial and error. I will give you the basics.

1 - Remove upper IM
2 - Remove fuel rails (put a rag down as gas will come out as the fuel system is opened) - there are two screws that hold it to the lower IM
3 - Disconnect the fuel lines up to and including the FPR
4 - Remove the lower IM - ok I'll admit there has to be an easier way to remove these but I couldn't figure it out. There are 2 nuts and two bolts that hold the rear one and 1 extra bolt that holds the front one on. Once you get these off, you have to wiggle one of the lower IMs out. It took me a while to get the right angle to get them out. I guess if you really wanted to you could remove the studs that on the lower IM.

Install the new lower IMs. They seem go in much easier than they came out. I took the time to polish the runners before I put them back in.

Now you need to install the new fuel lines/FPR/injectors. They basically bolt right back in place where the existing one was.

Bolt the fuel rails back into place and make sure the injectors are seated properly. There are small rubber washers that hold the injector into the fuel rail. Lube them with some motor oil or they will bunch up and tear. Yes I had two fuel leaks as a result of this.

Install the upper IM and you're pretty much good to go.

Turn the car to position II and let the fuel system charge. You need to look for leaks before you start the car. Please no stories about how you had a nice car fire in the driveway.

The last and probably most important thing is this: do not drive the car hard for a few days. I did not follow this advice and threw a whole bunch of CELs. Basically all misfires because I can only assume the ECU had not yet figured out what was going on with the new intake system.

The two pieces I have not installed yet are the bypass valve actuator (aka IMRC) and an rpm switch to activate it. You need some electronic means of opening the secondary chambers in the upper IM and an rpm switch is about the only thing that will do it.

Here is the bypass valve.



Overall I am happy with the install. I still need to install the BVA and figure out what the rpm activation number is as well as what rpm vtec should kick in. I plan to try the same settings as the TypeS but I'm not sure if it's going to be the same.

I'm sure I'm missing something so this thread may have some updates.

Thanks.

Neil

 

Sweet!!!
so did you open er up yet?? see what shes got???

 

Yeah but you can tell with the BVA that it's lacking something. It's currently lacking the power my car had with the original stuff but I'm sure that will change once I install the BVA.

 

Oh and a special Acurazine shoutout to Kris (fsttyms1) for all the stock parts from his old engine. Couldn't have done it without ya buddy.

 

Nice work!! i've been following your threads. hope you get your money's worth out of it!

when do see -S cams on there?

 

Nice work!! i've been following your threads. hope you get your money's worth out of it!

when do see -S cams on there?
did he make you say that
jaja j/k i'm secretly in love w/ him too...dont tell him

 

Thanks.

Yea now you should look into type-s cams and a timing belt. Drove on over and ill help ya install them Oh and get your BVA working

 

TypeS cams??? Soon. Trying to be about the car parts purchases so the wifey doesn't have a coronary.

 

Congrats..I now have to have all my purchases shipped to the job and dropped off where I'm getting them installed, if I take it home I gotta hear it from wifey.

 

Ah the joys of marriage.

 

 

 

congrats on the new mod

 

NSXNEXT, you'll need to do something to activate the bypass valve actuator. It operates the butterfly valve of the dual-stage intake manifold system which changes the intake air velocity to generate more power in the lower and upper rpm ranges.

 

I was wondering that myself. the imrc is activated by the ecu. i suppose the trigger is rpm. you could fashion something to activate it, shouldn't be to hard.

 

Disable the primary intake tract by removing the plate inside the manifold.

I haven't seen anybody do it on the TL, but apparently people do it on other cars, like the new Mustang. It has a plate for primary and secondary intake tracts, just like ours, and I guess they remove the plate so it's always open.

If you're having difficulty setting up the trigger for the IMRC actuator, then just try that and see what the car would put down.

Oh, and congratulations on getting it done. I know you've been working on it for a while now.

 

Yup already addressed above....

 

 

OK so I have a question. Will the ECU recognize that the secondary intake opening since It's being opened via the rpm switch?

I'm assuming the ECU will recognize the increased air flow and adjust the fuel accordingly.

Anyone have any thoughts on that?

 

The increased airflow will be detected by the MAF (mass airflow) sensor. Upon detecting more air flow, the PCM would adjust the fuel delivery according to the A/F map data stored inside the PCM flash memory, unless the new airflow reading has gone off the upper limit of the prestored A/F map data. In the latter case, you will know about this because the "engine" light will come on.

 

thanks dude.

 

only the TL doesnt have a mass air flow sensor.

 

has any one looked at the valve thats actually opening?

 

and the ecu shoud compensate for any added air flow into the engine

 

i have seen it. it is nice

 

There's no need to be Just get yourself a performance shop like myself and the wife will never know. Business expense. I love when I get new stuff for my car; my wife starts complaining b/c now she thinks she can spend $ but then I tell her, "Oh I didn't pay for it, the business did or even better I didn't pay for it I was sponsored" LOL

On a side note, it's nice to see some members, like yourself and Kris, do some unique modifications and really pave the way for swaps and the like.

 

Thanks Josh Just seeing what's possible.

I guess after the TypeS cam swap it'll be time for a 3.5L upgrade.

BTW, I'm not even in the same league as Kris, but thanks for the compliment.

 

Yep. And CleanCL is working on finishing that up now so you can pick his brain.

 

and I'm hoping to snag his old cams.

 

Hey NSXNEXT,

If you ever figure out how to activate the IMRC , please let me know how you did it.
I for one have an Accord V6 with the CL-S/6speed swap. But sucks is that my bypass valve actuator doesn't activate (i'm sure it's for the same reason, the actuator doesn't recieve a signal to activate it). So i've been looking for a way to figure out this problem as well.

 

If you had all the items you needed at hand all at the same time, how long would the mod taken without the trial and error? If you find out the solution to troubles, try dynoing the thing to see what kinds of gains are there. I'm interested in doing a new mod myself

 

I would just pick myself up a rpm switch to activate the actuator

you could do it in a half to a full saturday if you had all teh parts.
(depending on if you had the tools and arent a absolute beginner)

 

I'd say you're looking at a day install.

As for the dyno, I'm not sure I can put the old IM back on as I think it might hit the fuel rails.

I can at least do a dyno with all the mods I have.

 

It was delivered today.




Just waiting on the IMRC and all its parts.

 

You're correct. The TL doesn't use the MAF (mass air flow) sensor. It uses the MAP (manifold absolute pressure) sensor. They both function to measure the amount of air sucking into the intake manifold.

 

Part #13 (top of throttle body)

I guess my only question is that the MAP sensor is before the new intake manifold, so how does it know more air is coming in?

 

The MAP sensor is sensing the absolute pressure inside the intake manifold. More air flow = higher inside air pressure, less air flow = lower inside air pressure.

 

You so smart.

 

It's all about experience. In my previous job, I spent seven years designing PC-based auto engine diagnostic scan tools. I learnt things about how computerized engine management works, engine diagnostics, feedback emission control, OBDI, OBDII, and of course how tune shops hack into and modify factory PCM/ECM's.

One thing worth mentioning is that before the times when PCM firmware could be downloaded into PCM flash memories, domestic auto makers (GM, Ford, Chrysler) put the EPROM (storing PCM firmware) on sockets for easy of firmware upgrade. Whereas Japanese auto makers such as Honda and Toyota soldered the EPROM directly onto the printed circuit board. This shows how confident the Japanese auto makers are in terms of their PCM firmware not needing any upgrade ever.

I once came across a GM trouble-shooting guide for a particular GM car. Whenever there was engine or driverability problem report by a dealer, the fix was to replace the EPROM with a new version firmware in most cases.

 

Question..... why are you waiting on the imrc?? Or are you talking about teh actuator??