Hi guys, couple questions for those that are a bit more informed than me...

First of all, on auto parts sites, right and left... when you are ordering parts, right is driver side and left is passenger side, correct?

I've already replaced my rear passenger side brake because it was stuck. Now my driver side was sticking, i could tell because my miles per tank is usually around 300. Now its around 200, so i checked the wheels and the driver side wheel wasnt turning as freely as it should. Took off the caliper, and it seems like its stuck. I take out the pads and go inside and push on the brake pedal, the piston comes out a bit too much and its leaking brake fluid, and it wont allow me to compress it back in again with a C-Clamp. Probably shouldnt have done that, is it completely done or can it be saved?

Now, I noticed that people say you can get front calipers from the 95 Legend, is there a direct replacement from another model for the rear calipers that are cheaper than the ones I can get for the actual TL model? Cheapest I can find is $60 plus $50 core charge online, but I cant really wait that long, as im going on a trip soon, and no local auto parts stores stock the OEM TL rear brakes. So maybe rear brakes from another model like the front ones would...?

Thanks.

 

NO- the DRIVER SIDE is always LEFT- as if you were sitting in the driver seat

Brake calipers MUST be replaced in pairs or there will be problems!

The TL rears are special order everyhwere, but kragen or zone can get them in 1-2 days
they run close to 90-100 each for the rears and are the same caliper across many models- no way to find them as a different car for less

The front calipers- I run the Legend dual piston calipers for improved performance for the same price as TL calipers 75 per side approx $

You can buy rebuild- o-ring kits for the calipers for 10 bucks- at honda dealer too.
Its easy to replace a few o-rings- as long as your caliper is good, sounds like yours are a bit past that but if $$$ is an issue, its worth a try. I took my old ones apart just to see what was in there...not much!

To get the piston back in its place- open the bleeder valve on the caliper and use the c-clamp-gently. You have to bleed the brakes after this too.
Anyone else trying this trick should place a 2x4 block in the caliper to prevent piston expulsion

 

Well I opened the bleeder valve and tried to push it back in, no luck. Looks like its pretty much done. I guess I have no choice but to order the caliper. I've noticed in general that honda cars dont have very good brakes, i've had a 94 accord, 2000 accord, 04 accord and 99 tl and all of them brake like crap. Even my girlfriend's POS pontiac sunfire has better brakes. Must be a design issue.

In any case Thanks 01tl4tl, I know you recommend RacingBrake/Hawk but I cant really justify $100+ for pads that might not even work that well, because I doubt its the pads its more an issue with the whole braking system. But how much of a difference is there between the legend calipers and oem?

 

it was easily the best $150 upgrade done so far to my TL, the 2 piston calipers- they used them on the nsx back in the day too. If you have to replace the fronts- the calipers are the same price as the standard TL so why not do it better?! I agree- honda brakes are garbage- thats why so many options to upgrade.
I have the specific part numbers for the correct legend calipers if you want.
Try the honda dealer for a rebuild kit- use compressed air to pop the piston out and clean the insides- replace the o-rings and top cover- install and test.
Make sure to place a small block of wood- like 2x4, under the brake pedal so helper cannot push the pedal to far and damage master cyclinder seals. REMOVE wood before driving

On pads- I have switched to RacingBrakes long awaited in-house designed pads ET300. Hawk makes good pads, budget ones at kragen or napa are fine.
I went thru a lot of pain sorting out my caliper probs and really happy with the final result

 

Well its just really rusty, and the rubber seal around the piston looks beat up. I think im just gonna order another one. Might as well since I installed the other side a couple months ago.

What do you mean "push the pedal too far and damage master cylinder seals?"

Also, I get a whining noise past 30-40mph and the rear driver side wheel has a bit of play... I figure get the rear wheel bearing replaced as well?

How do I tell if my front bearings are shot?

 

When bleeding the brakes after caliper install- you do not want to push the pedal all the way to the floor! In normal driving it doesnt go that far- and to make the piston inside of it go past its normal limt- can damage the o-ring seal on it

Rust?! Thast a really bad sign- make sure you have 4 working calipers

Have a shop check the wheel bearings for you

 

Yeah but I like doing things myself. It saves me money and I learn something, even though I might make some mistakes, mistakes that cost me money but in the long run its better. My rear bearings I most likely am going to replace, those are easy and I can tell they are bad. The front ones im not sure about. Does anyone know how to go about noticing the signs of bad front bearings?

Yeah my rear caliper has got rust all over it, inside and outside the piston, I live in Buffalo, NY, with the amount of salt they use im not surprised. My front calipers seem in pretty good condition though, but if anything ill replace them with the 95 Legend GS Two piston calipers. BTW where can I find those?

 

kragen- raybestos pro grade rebuilt part # 10627 and 10628
95 Legend LS Coupe 72.99 online price
That comes with the bracket- you take the metal tabs off the brakect and use on the TL- dont use the legend bracket though
I will be posting a DIY on it soon